juce

What did you machine that out of? A round or square stock. Looks pretty cool.

Solidworks is also fairly easy to get with a student license. If your a student ask your IT desk about it The only bitch is any screen caps or printouts will have the "student version" water mark.

Urinemachine

I bought the -10AN extrusion its 6063 aluminum

juce

Ohhh, you can purchase them in extruded shapes like that? Nice!

Urinemachine

Yep - my -6 rail (which comes complete and machined) was $250. My -10 rail was $24 + shipping for the extrusion and we machined it

fe3tcourier

two things

1 are you really going to use a stock IM with all that flash gear? thats the most important part of the build by far, and stock long narrow ports are not the right thing for big power (you'll still make the power, but boost will be up to do it)

2 http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=189911#189911 : tick tock tick tock tick tock

nice early bmw boost footage :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wksgK-S4bbU

check out the guys other footage for even better videos :-)

b18.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFCUiL0WOA0&feature=user

^^^ Awesome

But I hope he'll have his car looking more like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86HWAni3wic

Urinemachine

Stock intake manifold is excellent. The OBD1 manifold isn't narrow by any means and all of the OBD2 guys switch to OBD1 manifolds which are a slightly short runner and considerably longer. You loose bottom end torque but you pick up a ton up top. I am going to use the stock manifold as long as it stays together. Very very few people have put 30 - 35 psi through one. I might test it prior, but probably not. If I need to, I can switch to a sheetmetal intake. The only ones proven to be effective are PPF manifolds from Sweden - they're about $1800.




Ok so new for today --

Well it was like 18 degrees out luckily in the garage theres no wind and I had like 3 layers of clothes on so I wasn't that cold. However it was not fun!

I wanted to pain the bay, but Jay kept me down to earth - its too cold to paint, nothing is gonna stick and I will have to redo it. So I spent about 3 hrs with Scotch bright pads and lacquer thinner. my engine bay is fully fully degreased and down to primer in most areas. I actually brought up a roll if aluminum fuel and wrapped ALL my parts in the engine bay (harness, ABS unit, etc...) in aluminum for masking. It worked out so well! The camera battery was damn near dead and I had to struggle even to get the last pics posted here so I didn't bother grabbing a good quality aluminum foil pick, but use your imagination.






Then we had some pizzzzzza. I came back and knocked out this fuel pump mount. Its a stainless steel rectangle (size of pump) with a stainless steel extension down. Its fully welded together (over lapped on backside) and then pretty thoroughly welded to the car. The car being dirty made for some interesting challenges and the welds weren't award winning but it ain't going anywhere. It's welded across that rear bumper bar, two tacks inside the bar (backside) and then the vertical part to the right of the bump is welded to the vertical fuel tank support. It was quite attached with welds, but just in case the welds ever break I went and drilled a hole inside that 5/8" hole you see, and put a big M8 or M10 bolt and locking nut/washer. Should the welds fail, I'll still have the fuel pump in the car!



Then came the fuel lines - surprisingly -10 lines aren't so bad. -4 lines were a pain in the ***, or maybe I hadn't done them in a while and I was rusty. Either way, the -10 went together fairly well. I have the two feeds to a junction to 1 feed to the filter/pump. The lines are positioned so there is minimal "lift" on the pump, its mounted below the 1/2 level of the tank as per aeromotive instructions and the lines should provide some volume to further avoid starvation. They're positions so that forward motion should tend to force the weight of the fuel down and up. The tank has some sumping that will prevent starving while braking.



I should have got some pics from the front. I switched from 150deg fittings at the tank to 45's. This keeps the lines higher. You cannot see the lines or fittings from the front of the car looking under. Also the distance from the outlets to the pump inlet is about 6".

Oh, and yes the bumper fits I took the bumper on and off about 5 times today to make sure everything cleared.

b18.

Did you put up pictures?

Urinemachine

Pictures work for me..

bgdriver

work for me too