seerex

Oh I see thinks.

Urinemachine

Here is how the soda blaster works


Updates:

Thanks everyone


Some more updates from today. The trans was atrocious I couldn't possibly put it back in my car with all the work I've been doing. So, first I wrapped any flange/seal/shaft that can't get stuff in/on it and took her over to the soda blaster. Here are some before pics:



Ew



EW. My slave cylinder failed right around 195k miles. So all the clutch dust that was in the housing then got wet with brake fluid. My clutch was slipping because of this. There was no way I could put this transmission back in in this condition.



Here it is ready to go into the soda blaster. This thing is MESSY. I get baking soda all over me and my hoodie is usually soaked. It sucks.



This is about 30 mins after blasting.



That would have been clean enough but I still had the ability to dry it off and throw it in the bead blaster so I did.



After bead blasting





All the seals/shafts preserved but cleaned.

And here she is ready to party!



Pics of the manifold as promised.



The #1 (closest) and #6 ports will be either plugged or welded up and a 2nd port put on the opposite (bottom) side of the manifold. We didn't realize there were protrusions from the head that will make it impossible to fit a sensor in those ports.

seerex

Damn that trans looks new . It this better then sand blasting?

Smith-02

it isn't nearly as abrasive..

Urinemachine

Sand blasting isn't advised on aluminum. It'll put funny marks in the aluminum. But the real reason I start out with soda blasting is because it was FULL of oil as you could see. If I threw that in the glass bead blaster, the bead media would be all screwed up because of the oil and clumping. So, soda blasting doesn't recycle the media, it goes down the drain. So if you blow all the crap off, then you can bead blast and all is pretty!

HiProfile

The shop I had my block cleaned at (which does work for King Motors, the Mugen guys) used the soda method. The block came out bright as hell, and from the few machined surfaces the soda hit, it was hardly abrasive. It took off all the oil and corrosion, looking like it was just cast yesterday.

Urinemachine

Been a while since I updated but I've spent the last week or so just spending money getting parts - nothing exciting.

Here is my custom bore custom stud size cometic MLS in 0.070 thickness



Got another order of misc parts for the car - replacing EVERYTHING. these are hard to get items like a new dip stick tube, strut tower caps, etc.



got the 4 puck clutch ready to party:



Hard to get coolant lines and 2ndary trans mounts and oil fill lid and other stupid ----:



And here is where it starts to get baller








Those pics can do the talking for themselves

and lastly...



VAC Motorsport upgrade oil pump - figured theres no way I am putting a used oil pump back in this thing with all this money in it. It was money I didn't really expect to have to spend but whatever. Its upgraded in the way the shaft is built - it's keyed so the sprocket cannot spin on the shaft and the bolt will therefore not back out. Common BMW M50/S50/M52/S52 problem is the oil pump nut falling off. I usually just weld it on like I did the other motor I built. This one is rebuilt, special shaft with a bolt vs a nut, reverse threaded with a keyed shaft/sprocket. Some blue loctite and we're ready to party.

seerex

Damn those parts are baller

jarebear667

looking good i think I am about ready to call you PARTY boi haha! all those partying parts you are using! just playing! ---- looks so good! peace

90dx

Holy ---- the baller alert just went to code red.Wiggins This build is really giving me wood please dont die before this is completed.Is that tranny gonna hold the power