Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

So whats the deal with filling, soo many say good, so many say bad. I'm shooting for 400 on a z6 with scat rods and vitara's, should I fill it or leave the sleeves alone completely?

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

if devcon is spilled wipe it off right away
if some is in there you honer will take it out pretty fast
also put your old head bolts in befor u fill because it could be a real pane in the ass to drill them all out and re tap every single hole in the block :-[

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

sounds like someone got a little pour happy.

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I just used some tape, it was easy.

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well it worked out for the best
10 grade 11 1/2" cap screws hold my head down

I thought I could just pour it in without spilling :1

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

http://www.drillspot.com/products/31...num-Liquid?s=7

this work? Since i have my b16 torn down for rods/rings...might as well give it a shot.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

ya thats devon liq alum, thats the ----

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sweet..its on the way... >:D

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goin for it on my .020 over vitara eagle d16 picxs 2 come

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

how are you guys keeping it from overheating? we filled a friends block and he even took out his thermostat and now he can't drive 2 miles without it overheating. should he make the coolant holes bigger?

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Sounds like a bad headgasket.

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+1
And tell dumbass to put his thermostat back in.

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we drill holes in ours to let the coolant through

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yea, he probably blocked off his water pump or something. you have to check out that motor, because there is no reason it can only drive 2 miles. coolant still works fine if you fill the block and drill holes

----, i dont run a thermostat. even on cold days it doesn't bother me.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

Yep, water pump port is easy to fill over.

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u need holes son
also, even if u filled up the salt(I used sugar), the devcon can sag down infront of the watter pump area.
pull the water pump off and look in there, with a light

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

oh ----, you guys are drilling holes in yours? :S


lol, but i'll have him check out the water pump

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

where can i get ahold of some of that davcon ----? im in the nw

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

google search for a grainger i think thats how its spelld there is one in west sacramento just off the i80 its like 45$

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the link is in the very first page 1st post

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5A457

or grainger.com search for part #5A457

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

my vitara motor is running great!
already 18k miles about bin in 2 differnet chasis now im tunning it for 15 psi finally in a newer chasis 96 hx coupe :y15psi with magic VTACK now :8

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

HELLZ YEA....... I LOVE PROVEN RESULTS

Doc

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bad news.... my vitara was making a funky knocking noies.. for about 5 k miles now and its bin getting louder so i stoped driving it and i noticed my oil psi went down to like 55 psi at 3k rpm no load.. so i pulled it out and the two outer rods are a little loost so im gonna plasti guage them tomorrow see the clearaNCE.. the crank looks good and feels smooth no scoaring or anyting really.. for now i swapped in a p'n'p z6 and that ---- i fired up its pressuriizing th cooling sysytem. :X ---- ---- ----.. so ii can probably drive it wiht the radiator cap loose.. ill keep updated i think im gonna get honda bearings if i need to after i figure out the clearance on the crank and let you guys know..

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

just got my brothers done: b18a1 pr3 head eagle rods wiesco 8.5:1 25psi and 100 shot direct port should be fun

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Sleeves will fold. B18A1 only good for aftermarket sleeving, IMO.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

FYI

Boost controler messed up on fully built engine with block fill
Mac truck turbo full boost(50+psi?)

block fill saved it!

Block had to be re honed and it did warp a little but only between the bottem of the fill and the bottem om the sleeve. We where able to rebuild it.

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hi this is a update on the status of my vitara build i dint update it now i found this tread and now updating to my previous post from a while back

i checked the clearinced all of them in spec .0012-.0018 on the crank and .0014 .0017 on the rods :6 :y seems good so i checked the oil pump(EBAY POS) its scuff marks insde so i inspected and cleaned my oem pump and ported the inlets and outlets and swapped it in and then swapped back my vitara motor back in..any ways long story short that ----- started purgin on me after i overheated it 2 times more wiht the oem radiator (cuz in the ---- hatch i had a EGAY RAD aluminum one and that pos leaked on the lower core meets the tank pos and overheated many times) now cuz i crashed it a little before the vitara turbo swap and the rad is craked and glued but still leaks i guess so now i got the head resurfaced and ARP studs SCE copper HG and it purges less turbo spools much faster but still dump the water slowly but shuley and get kept on getting worse so i drove this ----- to AZ and back 1240 miles round trip got my AZ licence and plates total process to get the PO box and register and licence too 2 hours!! and cost 130$ about and 165 in gas so now im immune to cali smog BS any ways i got a mad tight JDM vtack b20/b16head :8 building a turbo kit for it now check my sig for details on the cars status now


SO TO SUMMERIZE MY VITARA EXPIRINCE IT WAS PLEASENT!! JUST NEVER BUY EBAY RADIATORS AND OIL PUMPS MAKE SHURE TO HAVE GOOD OIL PUMPS AND RADIATORS DONT OVER HEAD A GAZZILION TIMES LIKE ME O0

>>>my vitaraa motor is torn apart i got a y8 block Z6 oil pump and p/u tube custon dip stick hole for y block.. and now im swapin the internals also i got std bore vitaras my motor was .040 :1 :S ya first build joint hmt not too long now i learned alot.... and the motort is going into my brothers eg hatch hes paying me some cash so im giving it to him too busy doing otehr ---- but i still want to go back to sohc turbo... the b just dont feel right.. i just want to see how it will feel wiht boost cuz the sohc has better highway MPG and its a SOHC (OG HMT FACTOR) and SMOKE THAM K<H<B ricers <<<<D

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

I see a lot of cooling problems because intercoolers block radiators. I'd rather run a smaller IC than a larger radiator - the larger radiator doesn't do anything if it's still blocked by the IC.

Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
 

half rad aluminum with slim fan full time running works great

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VERY COOL!!!!!


I just rebuilt my A6... the one in the origional "how-to" post.....
Long story short:
100+ mph @ 15psi and the main relay malfunctioned... HELLO fuel cut... BROKE ALL 4 Wisecos... (all the piston skirts cracked in the same place). but I just rehoned the block and put Vitera slugs in the old block after gauging the bores for egging and there was less than .001" after 20,000 VERY HARD miles and destroying $400 pistons.

Also Agreed on the Slim pusher fan operating at all times.

Dr. Mike

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wow.. and my vitars have grey wear areas on the thrust side.. i guess the machine shop screwed up and bored my motor too much

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Which way did u face the arrows on the Viteras???
99% of the people are installing them backwards w/ the arrow facing the crank pully... when they should actually be facing the flywheel, because of the offset of the wristpin. .020 offset in the wrong direction will have those effects along w/ desent piston slap.

Just a thought.... about the issue ur experiencing

I measuered the "stock" Honda pistons, and wisecos that I installed... and the same wristpin offset was on the Viteras.... but the arrows were facing the Flywheel... So that's the way I installed them...since the Suzuki motors are transverse of Hondas.

Dr. Mike

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Crafty.

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HMM interesting thanks for the tip yes i had the arrows to the crank pully :1 now ill put it to the fly wheel.. before i put the next vitara ----- together tomorrow

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UPDATE MY VITARA MOTOR STATUS WHY IT FAILED (NOT REALLY JUST PURGING) WHY I TOOK IT OUT

ok i never payed attention to the cylinder head and the gasket glued to it. so i plealed it off guess what i see is black areas (cylinder pressure leaking?? anyone..) leading right into the water jacket in the two middle cylinders farther examining the head i realize how ruff the machine job is on the head and that i can feel it with my finger nail and comparing it to the other head i got back from the machine shop for the new motor its mirror finish.. i examine more... i see the ruff machine work and the valleys (low parts from the machine work) have black stuff in there so this guy did a shitty job on my head so i just waisted 1300 on the stupid B20/vtack swap :1 so i need to get some rods and put this motor back together with the arrow facing the right way this time.. lol cuz my brother is getting the other vitara build im making


this is the ---- torn apart and fresh resurface and presure cheack + valve job and fresh hone on the block 353 dollas and the guy had to replace 3 valves like that it was 310 still not bad id say compared to the last machine shop i went to get this ---- build

Attachment 16482

poor sexy turbo beast torn apart

Attachment 16483

this is my borothers ---- box thats getting the vitara motor

Attachment 16484

more pics of stuff ARP studs ect

Attachment 16485

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----


clean your shop floor

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looks like it had a dirt floor, but sometimes you just have to make due with what you have available, but ---- son lol.

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its a custom shop it only got a 3rd outer wall added a month ago it only had 2 walls and a roof its getting there no garage got to fix ---- up some how

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How long has your setup be running with this configuration?

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ive been running it for about 18 k miles