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question about curing it.

1. put it in the oven and roommate will murder me and block filler will then be useless.

2. no real heater vents to use

what if i just let it room temperature cure in my house? would that work as long as it sits for a long time?

how long?

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Great question!!!!!!

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I actually found a solution for me.

I was sitting there thinking about what i could use to heat these fuckers. What I need is a big oven...so then I realized that I have a powdercoating guy who has a carport size oven for doing his powdercaoting, perfect!

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I thought that water wetter kept the coolant from boiling and bubbling at the top of the water jacket, keeping more water in contact with the hot metal surfaces, improving cooling.... I suppose that yes it is reducing the surface tension, but I just always thought it did more then just let the thick coolant flow in the nooks and crannies.

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Yes, it does all that by cutting surface tension. Thinner coolant flows better past internal engine surfaces and bypasses hotspots before they would otherwise form...

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Plenty of guys say water wetter works, but Me and an other guy at w shop with a 380whp LS/Vtec Boosted have seen no real gain from running it. I mixed it exactly to what the bottle says and no change.

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so a good headgasket and arp studs= no blown headgasket?

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no detonation + any headgasket = no BHG

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You don't have to *actually* be a business to buy the Devcon epoxy from Grainger. They just want to classify people like that. You can order the epoxy online, or if you live two miles from a Grainger, like I do, walk in and tell them your company is "Tuenarboi Incorporated." They set up an account for tracking purposes, but do not as for Tax ID numbers or anything official like.

$40.79 for 1lb of F-2 liquid aluminum, picked it up today.

Turbo Sam has my GX pistons on order at his cost for $28/per, going to be hammered onto LS rods, dropped into an almighty A6, and I'll be shooting for near-300 whp worth of 12.5:1 CR non-IC turbo fury.

YAAAARR!11 Water injection bypasses mundane concerns regarding thermal load, knock limit, octane, and the whole concept of "charge temps."

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you doing like a methanol injection sorta thing or something a lil different?

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Yes and no. Or maybe just no.

Water has four times the cooling properties of alky. The combustion chemistry of alky *DOES* render a large porion of it into water in the first two combustion steps which goes on to cool the later, longer chain reactions which are the ones that normally lead to detonation... but...

That alky is expensive. Water is free - I'll most likely be stealing it from water fountains to avoid having it show up on my water bill (an extra $7, boo hoo). I might even go so far as to run water from mud puddles through coffee filters. I'm not right in the head like that.

I'll dilute the water with a dash of acetone to cut surface tension so that it sprays correctly from a fuel injector instead of in a straight stream like an oversized squirtgun. If I can get the local chem supply to come off some hydrazine, or failing that get Scav-Ox which is 35% hydrazine, it's dirt cheap and we all know how groovy rocket monopropellants are. Up to 20mL pure per gallon of gasoline renders increases in power of 10%, and it's chock full of N and H atoms by weight which are easy ignition high energy reactions that convert promptly to water and suchlike, sidestepping a lot of the previously mentioned as bad, m'kay?, long chain molecules in the later combustion reactions.

Or that's the theory, anyway.

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Hello, jello!

I just poured a dirty slut of a D16A6 block. I did things just a teensy tiny bit different from crx304, but essentially the same.

- I poured my epoxy a 3/8" into the top of the water pump hole (requires delicate taping *from the outside* so you can remove/dremel tape later); I did this because I wanted to support the bore a little further down. I have a 5/8" gap between the top of the epoxy and where the head surface will be. I plan to drill some smallish connecting holes between topside and the water pump hole I partially occluded.

- I used the whole pound of epoxy. YAAAARR!!1



To do over again, I'd probably use a pound and a half, and fill a tiny portion of the lower cooling jacket as well. I'm not too worried about cooling for my setup - water jacket won't see much more load than if the engine was NA - but that might be pushing the limits of what a conventional setup can handle. If you aren't planning to inject 25-50 percent as much water as fuel under boost, you might want to think about it before following that bit of advice. It's probably overkill.

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mr davis, ill send you pictures of me in compromising postions for free,

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OT: what happend to the MBC you were gonna send me?

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newb question... What are GX pistons? (awaits flaming)

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Honda cast pistons. Similar to PM7 pistons.

75mm bore but with a 21mm wristpin making them perfect for an LS rod swap.

I don't know the p/n but you can find it with a quick google search. They're like $28 a piece from Majestic.

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I don't imagine they'll support nearly as much boost as forged pistons?? The cost seems very cheap and Joseph says he's gonna make 300hp with them?!?!

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13010-PDN-A00 is the STD size. I have 13020-PDN-A00 which is .25 mm oversize. They have a 5.5 cc dome, smaller than the 7.2 cc P29/PM7 ZC piece. With A6 block, Z6 head, PDN piston, and Z6 headgasket I'll be at 12.2:1 CR - fun, fun, fun!

Support boost, pfft. Boost, biscuit, bullshit - pick one and eat it because none of them has anything to do with mean combustion pressures aka POWER.

Simple metallurgy: A piece of aluminum (piston, in this case) is half as strong at 600 deg F as it is at room temperature. By the time the crown of it is exposed to combustion temperatures, it's getting a little soggy.

Car will be a non-IC water injection baby. Combustion temperatures will be significantly less than traditional setup - inject enough water and it forms droplets coating the combustion chamber; as soon as the AF mix combusts it absorbs the heat and turns to wet steam. My stock cast pistons - a fine quality OEM casting, btw - will be stronger at the temps I run them than a forging at the temps a traditional forced induction setup sees.

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Hy @all from Europe

Which one is better,the devcon liquid aluminum or moroso Block filler?

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both work fine.

devcon can be heat cured and ready to go real quick

moroso says to room temperature cure it for 28 days, eep.

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i just got the ls block filled with the moroso filler and drilled it today .i had `to get a concrete bit to drill it and i drilled all the holes to match the head gasket and got the salt out and it goes to the machine shop tom ge tbored and ill have it togethe rin a few weeks ill keep every one posted on how it goes and alsoo i have alot fof the moroso block filler left so if some one wants it let me know and we can make a deal on it

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If you use this block filler? Can i leave crank in so i dont have to deal with new main bearings and crap?? Also puttin in h beams so with the old rods out and i fill the block, be alright to just set the pistons back in at top, to keep cylinders round for sure. Let it dry and sit for a few days and then take pistons out and put rods and pistons back in and be fine???? Just didnt want to have to strip a good block down the whole way.. Any ideas let me know. Thanks

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I left the crankshaft in, and torqued down my head, when curing the epoxy so any bore shift would be stabilized.

Ideally you want to machine/hone the bores after pouring + curing the block. Ideally, you want to replace your main bearings, too - and with ACLs for D-series rods + mains going for $50 from www.autohausaz.com there's little reason to skimp out in that area.

But, you know, this IS homemadeturbo.com, not buyabunchoffaggotshinypartslikearichboy.com, so if you DID cut a corner or two you'd probably get away with it.

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beautifull writeup

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is that the pair?

i got my ACL rod bearings for $22, havent checked into mains yet. whats the deal with the thrust washers, are those ok to re-use?

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ACL rods and ACL mains, $49.xx and you get free shipping for orders over $50 - I got bearings, cam and both crank seals for $58 to the door. Very prompt. I think it was crx304 or Fook touting them, and I can say I'm very happy with the service.

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i dont have an oven to cure this bitch....my brother would ------- kill me if he came home with a motor in the oven :-X . i doubt it would fit in a conventional oven anyways. but 28 days to cure :o

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28 days is rediculous... i filled my block with moroso and drilled it after 1week and it chewed up good masonry bits....if you consider 28days from the time it's filled to when you first start up the motor i guess thats reasonable.

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Very good info and informative post! considering this on one of many future products. :)

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can someone send me some morso block filler? smmit wont send it to APO/ Po boxes. :(

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i must say this is the nest thing i've read on this site. im actully thinking about this??

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Any new updates peepz? I'm this close || to fill my extra LS block with moroso or devcon aluminum

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I think Beau's 470 whp B16 with a third as many cooling holes as I thought I wanted sold me on block pouring.

I have the assembled shortblock - poured A6, LS rods, GX pistons - that I need to take some pictures of.

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[Homer]mmmmmm sexy block[/drool]

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Having trouble getting this Deavcon aluminum epoxy. Anyone else having problems with it? I dont own a business so it poses a problem. Also, doing some research and found out that Moroso block filling breaks down over time. Is this true with the Devcon Aluminum epoxy as well?

Davis, post some pics.

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You don't have to be a business. Go to their website and order it.

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They ask for business info in order to do order tracking. You should be able to open an account with them without so much as a tax ID or the driver's license in your pocket. Walk in and ask to open an account for "1000 homo tuenarboys, unlimited," no one will be impressed.

I just ordered under the guise of my local community college - they send a bunch of the machine shop and automotive boys that way to buy basic gear. You order it under their name, but have to pay cash/charge with your own money.

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hm.... i shall have to try this

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i was reading up on the "Moroso Engine Block Filler" and its said its good for cast iron engines. never mention aliuminium motors. that devco stuff might be a better match.

Nick

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you need the devcon. part number 10710 is a 1 lb tub

10720 is the 3 lb tub. i get then for 35 and 5 respectively.

its the devcon liquid aluminum f-2.

prep is the most important thing possible with this. i dunno if these guys previously scuffed the inside of the water jacket, but it is critical. that and brake cleaning the area after every step.