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I'm sure if you took pictures of some gaycock stuffed in your mouth you'd get satisfaction.

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Can try Ackland Grainger. I don't know. There is ways. but if you don't have a business account it's hard.

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Grainger in the USA does counter sales now... they ask for (business) name to keep track of orders, but do not require an account or a business/tax ID number to purchase from them anymore. I'd think a foreign branch would be similar... ???

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I just had a couple of questions for you guys
Im really interested in trying this but can i do it with bottom end still assembled or i have to tear it down?I dont wnana have to take off my pistons

also would it make a difference if i did it in two sections like fill it up half way, then add salt in the middle and do it again to make sort of a gap inbetween to keep it a bit cooler
what do you score the walls with?

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you dont need to absolutely disassemble the bottom end. just make sure you duct tape or tape really well all the holes exposed (oil, water, and piston cylinders) on top so that you wont get the aluminum in them when you are pouring. You could essentially do the bottom first and then let it cure then pour salt and then pour the top part. Not sure if it will make any difference in terms of stability, but its worth a try. Just use some good grit sandpaper... anywhere from 400-800. You just want to make sure the waterjacket is clean and also a bit scored so the aluminum can adhere to the walls well.

Also note, dont pour the aluminum in <70 degree F weather because it will be like putty. Pour it when its kind of warm outside or if you have your block in an warmer environment (i.e. in the house with the heater on) than 70 degrees. It just makes pouring it alot easier.

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I asked my machine shop about this when I brought my block in. They told me the hot tank only gets to about 150-160deg. Your coolent gets hotter than that so its completely safe. I got my block back the other day and the devcon seemed to have turned a shade darker after being through the hot tank but thats it.

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My block's been sitting here for a minute, the epoxy gets a little darker over time.

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agreed! back when i originally did this i asked the same question of the machine shop and they said as long as it's fully cured and prepped properly, you will have no problems. i had the head decked, bored, honed and hot-tanked after the fact and pushing 22+psi (14b) after the fact.

I really wish i would have thought about the epsom salt idea instead of the snow salt..... it's alot smaller grit and would allow for a more even pour.

all of this sounds real good and seem to be comming along great w/ other ppl's ideas and inguinuity.

stepping up in size of turbo (T3 49/48).... hopefully to be pushing 400whp outta a D16a6 w/ LS rods and filled, daily driven 20 psi .... we'll see.

keep up the good work.

DR.Mike

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you should pick up the t3/t4 I have, that'll rip on it.

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what did u do to pre clean the water jacket?

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sandpaper (60grit) and a pencil

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just finished baking my block yesterday..it turned out pretty darn well! all i have to do now is drill the holes, clean it out, and notch the block for my h-beams..

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i'll be attempting mine tomorrow morning. can i just mix the devcon all at once and have the proper mixture? i'm guessing that after i'm done i won't have much left anyways so i might as well just mix it all. will that work?

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yea, just pour the little bottle into the big one, and mix for 4-5 mins. youll be set

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damn it you mean i spent $.95 on a mixing cup for nothing? i'm pissed now :P sweet i'll just mix em' both.

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overhere in belgium we got the devcon c1 and it can take temps up till 260 °, the f-2 can only take 120°. i would guess the c1 would be a better choice??? ???

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Seeing as how that's Celcius, 120 deg C is fine. Think of how hot the coolant should be, max. In a properly maintained vehicle, it is a non-issue.

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The cooland won't get above 120 C but the cylinder sleevesn will.

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You think?

How about that 1500+ deg F exhaust stroking against that aluminum head that melts at 1200 deg F?

:)

Seriously, I have a spool of thermocouple wire here, and will be placing probes in the cooling jacket and cyl head of my built LS to log this ----.

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will 1lb fill my b16 for do i need more

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heres my dohc zc block, should be finished some time this week ;)
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...illedblock.JPG

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Sexual. I take it you guys are not drilling them out with hand drills? And if you are, pretty work. You vaccum out the excess ----, or wash it out again, or what?

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you can probably just drill when the salt/sugar is still in there, and rinse it all out at the same time. looks like a dremel may have been used. when i do mine, i dont think i will do those big slots. it looks like it leaves very thin/weak devcon walls that could crack off and circulate through your coolant. i may just use the regular drill method.

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I did what daubleaaron did in his block to ensure that it willl not overheat during the summer. Of course the drawback is exactly what you are talking about static. It makes certain area very thin. But when you take it all into account, the walls will be more braced than before and still will not move as much.

Just a side note, took my filled-block to the machinist to get it bored and honed. One shop told me he was charging extra for stock sleeve honda motors now because they flex quite a bit when he tries to bore them. The second shop, the one I ended up going to, told me that he was kind afraid the walls might flex on him too... BUT to his amazement, my filled block stayed 100% True from top to bottom throughout the process and he said this block was actually way easy to bore and hone.

Not sure if the wall flexing is a true problem with Honda blocks when getting them bored and honed, but this is what I found out and thought I'd post it up for ya'll.

1+ for devcon filled blocks.

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I used a large drill press and then a dremel to clean up the holes. I did all the holes because my crx is my everyday car in the summer. And I work a few shifts as a delivery driver, So its going to be put up against 5 hour shifts of driving. As for cleaning out the salt, I used table salt which was pretty easy to just shake out. Then I put quite a bit of water through it then it was hot tanked.

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YES!!!!!!!!! thats GREAT!!!! O0 O0 O0 O0 O0

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well, hotrex cracked all 4 of his sleeves..don't know if it is devcon related, or because he was running 21 psi....
hope its not devcon related, or there goes some money and time down the drain

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I don't believe it was Devcon related. Stock sleeve have seen those levels, and filled blocks on HMT have held over 30. I'm not worried about my filled block.

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+1

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Its hotrex, ------s. He never cleaned that block before machining and assembly.

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Let me add a bit of fore-story before my question

I got a crappy B18A1 out of some auto in pull-a-part junk yard. It has some build up in the water jacket around the cylender walls that needs to be cleaned out *obviously*. Anyway I am going to fill my block sooner or later, but I'm trying to find the correct order of events to do this.

I was talking to my buddy who is helping me build my engine, and told him I needed to devcon it before I get it honed/tanked. He told me that I should get it hot tanked before we fill it, in order to get some of that build up and corrosion.

So whats correct?

Fill - > Hot Tanking
or
Hot Tanking - > Fill

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The A6 block was really clean, but my machinist said hot tank then fill for teh win!

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Thanks

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I sandblasted, pressure washed, gave the block a bath in the laundry tub, then filled it. Then gave it another bath to rid it of the salt and to be double sure the sand was gone, Then sent it to be bored and decked.

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1100 miles so far on my filled block at 9 psi without any sign of overheating. 8)

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only 9psi?

i've got an extra LS block i think i'm gonna try this with.
at some point i might want to boost 20 psi ;)

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Daily driving mine at 15psi now and the last couple days have been hot. And daily driving for me involves a couple shifts a week driving for 5+hours.

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Did anybody did a block filled and block posted? I figure this could add more support to the sleeves

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anyone have the hotrex experience with cracked sleeves? whos car has what mileage on this devcon?

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I took my head off the other day and some of the thin spots where I drilled the coolent passages were breaking up. It doesnt look like large chunks are gone or anything but I was hoping for it to look better than it did. Ive got a couple oil changes on it at 15psi. I wouldnt do it again, if I felt I was going to need cylinder support I would weld in a block guard or sleeve the block.