Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
agree with hotrex. just filled a d16 tonight and have some pics on the camera. I'll post it up later when i find the damn cable for it. Anyhow, just a quick question... The block is essentially only filled like 1" deep correct? Since the top of the water is pretty high up.
Yes scuff the inside of the waterjacket and use brake cleaner, especially after filling the block with salt. |
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
i filled my d16 a few weeks ago and i'm in the process of building it.. i'll take some pics tonight if i get batteries for the digi cam... i used moroso My machinist assured me that the moroso was sufficent. i drilled out the collant holes just as they are in the head gasket.. the ---- is basically portland cement.. we'll see how it works out soon
Scott |
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
here's it is.... :y
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg |
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Thats the block I filled last night. well see how it turns out.
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so yeah ive been readig up on this but i am still uncertain on the perpose. like i got from this thread that it gives it that added suport but is it just a cheap and easy way to not resleeve the block? ive seen i thnk it was those eagle sleeve? with a semi closed deck it that what this is?
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
this mod eliminates cylendar flex on the top of the sleeve.
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i have a ls block im going to fill very soon, i wanted to know, i have moroso block filler, and i need to know how much i need, like how many cups, how much water to mix with it, can anyone help me with that, it dosent seem to have directions on it, but any help would be much apeciated. i need to do it soon. so how much filler i need and how much water to mix with it? its a ls block and i want to fill from the top of the w pump to the top basicly. :-\ ;)
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by 90turboteg
i have a ls block im going to fill very soon, i wanted to know, i have moroso block filler, and i need to know how much i need, like how many cups, how much water to mix with it, can anyone help me with that, it dosent seem to have directions on it, but any help would be much apeciated. i need to do it soon. so how much filler i need and how much water to mix with it? its a ls block and i want to fill from the top of the w pump to the top basicly. :-\ ;)
hope it helps |
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
blake u dont use water! :o
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
If your using the Moroso..which is essentialy cement..add more water. More water requires a longer intial curing time. But!! The extra water makes it cure slower given you a stronger end result.
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I just thought all these links should be on here so people dont have to go searching around for them, or asking questions that have been previously asked ;)
Block Filling and Block Posting.. https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=49850.0 How mush filler to use, and what kind(product).. https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=51107.0 Hotrex's write-up on filling a block.. https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=49459.0 Block Filler Materials.. https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=50949.0 |
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maybe i missed the answer, but do you have to definitely get the cylinders bored out after filling it? will there be any ovaling/movement of the cylinders? is there a way to stop this from happening? can you just fill, hone, assemble, and go?
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Some people have recommended it to have it bored and hone afterwards if you have the bling bling, but not sure if its quite necessary. I mean I can't imagine the aluminum epoxy expanding so much against the cylinders causing it to distort or become less than the ideal in shape. If the epoxy was to expand you would think that it would expand in the area of least resistance which would be UP into the air and NOT against the cylinders. So my answer would be boring is NOT necesssary.
But if you are posting it, I'd say get it bored out and hone. |
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or maybe there is a way to keep a spare set of pistons in there to keep it from distorting??
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The idea of honing after pouring with the crank and head torqued to spec is the same idea as torque plate honing. The block is going to shift very minutely with the torquing forces, and you want your epoxy to set under those circumstances.
After that... well, its just redneck common sense to machine a surface during rebuild. |
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im going to be doing this soon to a d16z6 block. i found this link on a HMT thread.
http://www.applied.com/catalog/ma/ca...&s=1810022&r=0 its for devcon, which i plan to use. but it says its good to 2500 is that enough? or is this a different kind or devcon than the one sold from grainger.com? thanks. Zach |
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by 95civicLX
it says its good to 2500
is that enough? Normal WOT EGT sit at 1450 deg F, 200-250 deg F above the melting temperature of the cylinder head and pistons, but they like it just fine.... the trick is to have something with plenty of mass to absorb and move that heat away from the head and the pistons. The metal in the engine itself, engine oil, coolant, it radiates some of the heat off the engine, sends the rest out the exhaust, etc. As long as you don't start overheating, I'm pretty sure you won't overheat your epoxy. |
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thank you
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darksol2005- thanks....thats awesome.
i had another question about block filling. i was reading a post on a 4000 hp drag built integra...and saw the custom block...with no cooling jackets around the cylinders. which made me think...i know its not possible for a daily driver.... but if you were building a track only car....could you fill the block all the way and not drill any coolant holes? |
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yes you can just fill the entire block with cement and/or aluminum and run an external water pump to the head.
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a tip so that if your not boreing it makes no machining needed with the devcon being i use it regularly to fill castings at work use spray wax on the deck and on a machined peice of steel or aluminum to make this perfect another small problem with devcon is that sometimes you get airbubbles and it will weakin the material al not very strong it gets rock hard but under heat and constant pressure it isnt a happy substance to work with im again gonna refer you guys to a local machine shop to have a custom block guard made or get a buddy that works at one to make it for you a cnc cut block gurd that modified with the drilled holes in it will be ver efficient make sure though that its made oversized to be pressed into place to avoid any movement and give you a solid cylinder wall
thats my $0.02 any one has any argument or anything i dont know in that let me know |
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Dude... punctuation.
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well i'm gonna be doin this to my block soon. already got the devcon from grainger and got an account(by the way it's really easy, they only made me fill out the top portion of the paper: name, address, phone, business name...and i think that was it, i can only purchase with cash or card but that's good enough) anyways. i want to fill a little lower than the one inch from the top of the block, maybe 1.5 or 2 and i got some ideas
i was thinkin about puttin some bolts where the coolant holes are before i pour the devcon, then once it's done just reverse em out, see any problems with that? next, how bad do you think a slightly greasy block would stink if i put it on the oven in my house for the 4 hrs at 200 degrees? don't wanna stink up the house and don't wanna contaminate the oven or some ----( and hell yeah i live with my mom so it really matters, just gonna do it in the middle of the nite when she's sleepin, haha) this will be a daily driver turbo hopin for about 200 to 250 hp with a del sol dual core radiator |
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this will be a daily driver turbo hopin for about 200 to 250 hp with a del sol dual core radiator |
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darksol, thanks for the link to the cheaper devcon. I ordered some up this week. ;)
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id just rather make sure i'm boostin safely and not risk gettin some cylinder warpage or somethin like that. i also already bought the devcon and might as well keep it and use it, but anyone think it'll stink in the oven?
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It's odorless, but I dunno if it gives off bad fumes.
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I've spent the last hour or so reading every word of this thread and absorbing as much of it as humanly possible. And I am now truly speechless! This just jumped to the front of the line on my to do list. Thanks guys, and of course I'll let you all know when I get it started and of course I'll take pics. I'll be ordering this stuff tomorrow.
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
same for me when I do my twincharging stage of my d16z6 this looks like this will save me around a grand.
No need for sleeving for 25 psi. thanks guys |
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
so ive used this stuff at work many time its good stuff but the holes instead of drilling them get what is called molders wax its an aresol wax and spray it on soda straws and insert them into the devcon they will pull out being the devcon will not adhear to the wax also good to wax the machined surface the epoxy will not adhear to the machined surface but it makes it much easier to break loose if by chance it does
best way to make sure it adhears into the block is by using a diegrinder or a pencil grinder with a small carbide bit small obviously and make a couple die locks also die lock(for those of you whom dont know what that means) basically a notch like a jigsaw peice the female side |
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you dealing with aluminum no need cor carbide bit, and will a rotory tool w/ cable do fine?
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yeah it will do fine and there is a need for a carbide bit a steel bit will load up also using wax on the bit helps to keep it from loading up depending on the type of burr you use
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Devcon is fully cured. Now I just need to drill the holes. I baked it for four hours in my oven at home and it didnt stink at all. This stuff is incredibly hard, I have no doubt that it will work flawlessly. And with properly drilled coolent holes I dont see why there should ever be a problem with cooling. I will find out though this summer, I plan on daily driving this and we see triple digits in the summer around MN and plenty of traffic.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...blockfill1.JPG http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-.../blockfill.JPG |
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how does this epoxy hold up to hot tanking
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i wouldnt recommend oven curing with my experience with this epoxy it curs harder and stronger when you heat it in the oven for like an hour then pull out and let it cure at room temperature
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Anyway to get this ---- into Canada?
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by W O T
Anyway to get this ---- into Canada?
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by bumblezc
I got Hotrex to send me mine. Took a hell of a long time, but I got it.
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Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
That's the Shipping Baron for ya.
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