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welded in blockguard kids was done back in the old school days and it supported a 500 whp b16 on 35 psi. it works

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Block filling is Ghey! :y

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anymore updates on the block filling pros/cons with this stuff

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Some of the people with filled blocks are real pros, and some (like hotrex) are real cons.

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I filled my block with the locktite liquid aluminum and it cam out great, you dont even have to bake it.
it looks awsome

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anyone tried this with a b-series block? sorry if someone posted in here, i didn't read the whole thing. i'm very interested in this whole concept and kinda thinkin about doin it with my ls/vtec i'm going to be building. seems like a good project but i'm not sure how it would turn out...any hints or tricks? yay's or nays? any help is appreciated!

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I don't know if you still care, but I have a filled LS/Vtec and its working out fine. As far as hints go, just make sure that you don't fill the block too deep as to cover the water pump area. Also, I used sugar instead of salt,like some of the other guys did. and also, don't fill it up to the very top, you should leave a little bit from the top. And It would be helpful to read the entire post, and ignore Hotrex's results.

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haha yeh i read the whole thing. just wondering if its worked for anyone else. how many miles u gone so far?

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i have 2 spare d series blocks sitting here but only really plan on building one at the moment but maybe build the other in the future. would there be enough to fill 2 blocks or should i get extra?

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i got my filled block motor running no overheating wat so ever.. its a d16y7 and dx head my ex head screwd up and chewd up the center cam cap/ bearing... and its not boosted yet i cant install my turbo till after the 24 thats when i have to do CHP inspection for my air bags and ----... i got 300 miles on my motor so far still breaking it it...
ill keep you guys posted.. http://E:\peter\turbod16 build\P1000528.JPG

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i got 2400 miles on my filled motor and boosted now for 1700 miles so far on 10psi constant rape everyday when i drive her and i drive hard.. on a base map for now waitin to get and ex tranny and i had to change my oil after 1000 miles of boost cuz it went bad it smelled so bad like gas and got dark so i changed it and i also did a commpression test
here are my numbers (distributor side) 115 110 110 110 psi (front of engine pully side)
these numbers scare me... or its ok tell me guys who has a motor running vitaras and wat kind of commpression lyou have . and how many miles.. thanks

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my ghetto engine what you think alot of ppl say wat all there wires and ----! idk but it works!
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2011
volvo bov! and stock air box! the best ---- out there OEM!
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2012
this is the most ganster part
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2013
the oil feed
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2014
wat inside looks like my egay ricer guages and ----
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2015
injectors 450s
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2016
the turbo t3 t4 .50/.63 ar's alos an eGay pice
eGay wg and atmosphere dump tube.
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2018
turbo and ghetto heat shild to protect my home depo 90* rubber crap thats leaking on me now and i cant hear my wg opening cuz the boost leak is so great and also i noticed a loss of power.. cuz im guessing its robbbing the engine of power cuz it has to use ALL the exhuast gas energy to spin that turbo and pump that air that still gets wasted throw the boost leak on the elbo
before the intercooler..


https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2017

heres the side of my car its ghetto alright..
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2019

anouther pic of the motor and the airbox
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2020

and the dummy muffler!
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/....0;attach=2022

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So anyone else had any negative effects? See the one guy said his started cracking and chunks coming off, anyone else have this problem? Would you guys recommend this for a build that is meant to last?

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the guy who had chunks coming off in the collant were cuz he used moros block filler its designed for good 'ol AMERICAM V8's ( its for iron block! :1) not aluminum blocks just use the devcon liquid aluminum it costs a bit but its worth it;. i used it and its fine.. just dont bore it just get a hone and put std vitaras in there and your good!
and also ppl say the block filling will crack your cylinders i dont think so my motor is fine and cuz hortex craked his weak sauce b16 because he used the iron filler and aluminum and iron have diffrent expantion rates......! (honuh blocks are aluminum!) so it sould be fine just dont bore it but mine is bored 40 over quit a bit too much.. but its holding up 10 psi all day... im guetting it tuned today for 15 psi and putting my gm 3bar map in... will see waht happens..

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Yeah I am actually doing a LS/vtec build. This is my daily driver, so I want it to hold up, but I don't want to poor a ton of money into it. I also have a 79 El Camino SS to restore so that is my project/fun car. This is just my daily, weekend warrior type deal. Will probablu try this, some tuner toy rods, have no idea what pistons yet, and my B16 head. Should be peppy (well atleast more peppy than the d15 that's in the slo now)

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------tex used Devcon liquid aluminum.

The general consensus on ------tex's engine, even from ------tex himself when he's having a good blood sugar day, is that ------tex got a bad tank of gas and stood on the gas pedal with both feet. Any normal block would have spit chunks and broken a sleeve, he was able to pull out perfectly good Eagle rods and reuse them.

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oh ok cuz i was reading and read somwere taht he had iron filler... well ok thanks for the corection!
well my motor is runing awsome even if i used 87 once... no problems but that was at night but im putting 91 only..

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So his block would have been screwed either way this just helped save it from more damage?

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a block with a craked sleeve is either way not a usable block either way unless you re sleeve it.. depending how bad is was messed up. i never seen a craked sleeve but if you just sleeve it should be good aging but then on the other hand just grab a new b block and start agin from there b18b's are all over the junkyards for cheap anyway.

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SOme of the filled blocks on HMT have seen 30PSI? I have a ls/vtec with eagle rods/srp 9:1 pistons going into my integra probably with a holset, or SC61 I was only planning on running 18-20psi on stock sleeves but if guys have been running 30PSI on devcon filled blocks I might do it..I have to get my block bored .020" over anyways for the srp's I just want it to last a summer..if ti last 3 months without the stock sleeves exploding i'd be happy..especially at 25-30 psi. Who has been running that much boost on HMT with a filled block?

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i ran 25 for an entire summer on a 14b till it ate itself (over-spun) when it peaked at 27+ ..... wiseco slugs, ls rods.... blah blah.... upgraded to 48/60.... and ran 15 daily on that... cant go higher right now due to the 450's and slipping clutch holding me back. this year i'm gonna see what it takes to blow that motor up!

turbo4life..... why the ---- u wanna beat the ---- outta ur motor runnin a basemap??? no wonder ur oil smelled like gas. (assload of cylinder pressure) + (assload of gas) = a ready to blow motor

ohh and by the way... take a day and clean up that engine bay..... that's ------ disgusting/lazy, even by HMT standards!

Dr.Mike

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thanks for the comment i got that ---- tuned last week its running nice but only 9 psi cuz the guy that was tuning it said it was going lean at 11 psi it was going like 13 afr so i lowered it to 9 and tuned it at taht.. and i dont know wats up arent the 450s good to like at least 250hp? wtf is wrong with mine? i think i need to get them cleaned but ill just save for the 750s i always wanted cuz i got a gm 3bar map taht i wanna put on and the 750s and get it tuned for 15 psi when i put the vtec head on. cuz i got the 15 psi wg spring laying around..
and the engine bay ill get it cleaned up once i get a nouther car to put this motor into ill make it nice i know it looks like total ass the whole car dose anyway so F it i say! till i get a new car.

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Fuel pump, or fuel pump wiring. Ask in another thread, this is not the place.

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thanks jd

so wat kind of oil dose you ppl run in your turbo motors just curious wat everyone is running
i personnally run regular non synthetic mobil 1 10w-30
and change it earlier 2.5k miles usally.. and erlier if im really beating up the car in that time frame.. like atuo x and ----..

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Wesson oil.

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i woulden even use that ---- for cooking! :P
wahts it actally ment for... :1
















good one lol!

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Why spend the money on good oil if you are going to change it that often?

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I change my oil every 800-1200 miles. Regular, synthetic, it doesn't matter it dies quick. I use the cheapest ---- on the shelf, too, works freaking great.

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I change my oil every like 6 months add has needed



I just finished my b16a block. Project actually 400 whp b16a with a cast manifold to prove a point

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That's the oil change regimen my beater is on... any turbo car I own gets the oil changed religiously. The sweet part of the deal is I set the used turbo car oil to the side and feed it to the beater as needed - no sense letting it go to waste, right?

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Nopers. My old zc didnt get an oil change for like a full year of beat hard driving in Vegas. Had a solid leak so it got a new quart every 3 weeks or so

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http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_745594_-1



thoughts?

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That cement ---- is what hotrodders have been using for years, but I don't know how it expands compared to steel and aluminum.

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should be doing a friends block soon. will try and take some pics

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sorry for blur, my dohc D
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/1127/dscf0072hn7.jpg

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So..do you guys think its a dumb idea to push my stock ls sleeves (ls/vtec with eagle rods, balanced crank, SRP 9.5:1 pistons, most likely a sc61 or gt30) I want to see 30 psi at somepoint this summer on race gas...maybe on the dyno once and then at the track once or twice. if i filled my block...if it cracked..i could just have it resleeved anyway right as long as i dont blow a rod out the side of the block, right?

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go for it

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HAHAHA okay anybody have a good tip for getting the liquid alluminum out of the cylinder? we had thought we masked it off pretty good but i guess there was a drip so some ran down the inside wall.

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bore/hone

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Hit it with a hammer.