Spec V, first build, about $1000
07-23-2007, 12:48 AM
#171
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
Originally Posted by c0mpl3x
***** in your mouth in the near future, just wait
07-23-2007, 01:24 AM
#172
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 0
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
OEMs have been building and failling with CVTs since the 80's. Even poorly designed maintainence nightmares like Audis no longer have them. Fist yourself, s1mpl3t0n, because it's much more likely we'll be driving electric/fuel cell cars in the future than "reliable" CVT cars.
07-23-2007, 01:51 AM
#173
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,162
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
OEMs have been building and failling with CVTs since the 80's. Even poorly designed maintainence nightmares like Audis no longer have them. Fist yourself, s1mpl3t0n, because it's much more likely we'll be driving electric/fuel cell cars in the future than "reliable" CVT cars.
Our trans mechanics are dreading the day these ******* come in for repairs
07-23-2007, 08:32 AM
#175
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 0
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
OEMs have been building and failling with CVTs since the 80's. Even poorly designed maintainence nightmares like Audis no longer have them. Fist yourself, s1mpl3t0n, because it's much more likely we'll be driving electric/fuel cell cars in the future than "reliable" CVT cars.
just you wait kneegrow
07-23-2007, 11:01 AM
#177
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 55
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
Originally Posted by Big J
5 years ago ALL chinese stuff was crap, it'a all a lot better now, but some of it is still crap. I dissambled the WG, it has a molded fabric reinforced silicone diaphragm, good machine work, the turbo is the same, the BOV is a rubber diaphragm, but it's molded, and @ 3.6 PSI it's not really a nessissity. There are 500 ebay vendors selling the same stuff from about 12 diffrent chinese companies. The intercooler I bought is top notch, $98 shipped, I don't care where it's made.
The Stock ECU handles boost very well, the spark and fuel maps are extended way beoynd any air flow values the motor would see in N/A trim. My guess is Nissan created the base maps using an engine dyno in a sealed room where the room pressure could be altered. As far as timing control, there haven't been, as far as I know, any real issues where timing, up to and just past the 300WHP mark, became an issue. Except where someone forgot they had relocated the knock sensor and popped a ring land. Running a draw through MAF setup probably requires a little more concern with ig timing. The IAT sensor is made into the MAF, so with a draw through the air is metered, heated, compressed, cooled down, time passes, then it enters the motor, with a blow through setup the temp and density is more accuratly calculated as far as metering and the timimng values used.
It's not like I'm clamping the voltage on a MAP or MAF to prevent a CEL, or rescaling fuel tables to cover new flow ranges, the ECU is actually mapped to the values it's seeing, both timing and fuel. You can't extend the maps that far w/o actually boosting the motor somehow, I think Nissan did to write the opperating software and maps.It'll won't max out untill about 15PSI, but the stock block is going to have fits at 12 or so, but that's over 300WHP, probably around 320. I can have nissan pull 2* base timing, but some people are running 10PSI +2* w/o problems. The car will actually run fine with 150cc over stock injectors, it relearns quickly, and won't freak but under a few conditions.
I think alot of you guys are running older cars with older ECU's and software, if you broke out a PC from say 1995, it probably wouldn't run this version of moxzilla or explorer. It's a matter of tech improvments. The ECU is a good ECU and the software is excellent.
Thank's for noticing the cleanliness of the setup, that's how I roll.
The Stock ECU handles boost very well, the spark and fuel maps are extended way beoynd any air flow values the motor would see in N/A trim. My guess is Nissan created the base maps using an engine dyno in a sealed room where the room pressure could be altered. As far as timing control, there haven't been, as far as I know, any real issues where timing, up to and just past the 300WHP mark, became an issue. Except where someone forgot they had relocated the knock sensor and popped a ring land. Running a draw through MAF setup probably requires a little more concern with ig timing. The IAT sensor is made into the MAF, so with a draw through the air is metered, heated, compressed, cooled down, time passes, then it enters the motor, with a blow through setup the temp and density is more accuratly calculated as far as metering and the timimng values used.
It's not like I'm clamping the voltage on a MAP or MAF to prevent a CEL, or rescaling fuel tables to cover new flow ranges, the ECU is actually mapped to the values it's seeing, both timing and fuel. You can't extend the maps that far w/o actually boosting the motor somehow, I think Nissan did to write the opperating software and maps.It'll won't max out untill about 15PSI, but the stock block is going to have fits at 12 or so, but that's over 300WHP, probably around 320. I can have nissan pull 2* base timing, but some people are running 10PSI +2* w/o problems. The car will actually run fine with 150cc over stock injectors, it relearns quickly, and won't freak but under a few conditions.
I think alot of you guys are running older cars with older ECU's and software, if you broke out a PC from say 1995, it probably wouldn't run this version of moxzilla or explorer. It's a matter of tech improvments. The ECU is a good ECU and the software is excellent.
Thank's for noticing the cleanliness of the setup, that's how I roll.
07-23-2007, 07:05 PM
#178
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 141
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
1) why and/or how would the ECU be mapped so far past the MAF values it could possibly see NA?
2) the MAF is 0-5 volts, the ECU doesn't cut untill 4.8-4.9 volts, which is around 14-15 PSI, why would the 0-5v be so far above what the motor could ever do NA and not closer to max NA flow values?
3) HOW would someone map an ECU at 150% past the higest voltage it sees NA?
4) to get flow values that high the ECU would have to have been mapped in a pressure controlled room, meaning it was seeing positive manifold pressures when it was mapped.
5) it's not a MAF system that also runs a MAP sensor to calculate barometric pressure, so how would the calculations for pressure diffrences at altitude be done?
Engine dyno in a pressure controlled room anyone?
2) the MAF is 0-5 volts, the ECU doesn't cut untill 4.8-4.9 volts, which is around 14-15 PSI, why would the 0-5v be so far above what the motor could ever do NA and not closer to max NA flow values?
3) HOW would someone map an ECU at 150% past the higest voltage it sees NA?
4) to get flow values that high the ECU would have to have been mapped in a pressure controlled room, meaning it was seeing positive manifold pressures when it was mapped.
5) it's not a MAF system that also runs a MAP sensor to calculate barometric pressure, so how would the calculations for pressure diffrences at altitude be done?
Engine dyno in a pressure controlled room anyone?
07-23-2007, 10:43 PM
#180
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,505
Re: Spec V, first build, about $1000
J, I was reading the thread today on tha other forum about the boosted AFC setup...I don't plan on using the zt2 equipment(getting the JAW wb from here) and I use a mechanical boost guage, not electrical....What would be involved in running a 3bar GM MAP sensor on my car?? Would I have to switch to a standalone engine tuning system to run this way?? Summit has the Maps for relatively cheap, they come available with either the stock plug or the plug for the MSD components(the sensors themselves are made by MSD)...EVERYTIME I think I got all my $hit together, somebody comes up with somethin' new that needs to be done to the car in order for it to run right...
