Urban Indians Civic Coupe 1.8L LS - 11.75 @ 115mph, BLOWN UP LS
Mine does the same "cut that your calling it" around 3000 rpm every now and then when the car is not up to temp. When I felt it for like 3-5 times with it 5 min I turned around, went home, grabbed laptop, and left again. Car had warmed up by then so it would not show up. Took it back out about a couple hours later "still datalogging" and my ignition dropped to 0 at 1%-20% throttle. This is only when cold/half warm engine. Supposed to meet with Blundell on the 19th but he's saying someone booked that day with him already after I had it booked 2 days before hand. So not sure whats going on with that. But I believe it has something to do with boost cut cold/war settings even though I'm not in boost when doing so I feel that it's somewhere in that setting of paramaters. But what do I know, I'm retraded with tuning and computers amonst many other things at times. LOL
Originally Posted by widebody93
Mine does the same "cut that your calling it" around 3000 rpm every now and then when the car is not up to temp. When I felt it for like 3-5 times with it 5 min I turned around, went home, grabbed laptop, and left again. Car had warmed up by then so it would not show up. Took it back out about a couple hours later "still datalogging" and my ignition dropped to 0 at 1%-20% throttle. This is only when cold/half warm engine. Supposed to meet with Blundell on the 19th but he's saying someone booked that day with him already after I had it booked 2 days before hand. So not sure whats going on with that. But I believe it has something to do with boost cut cold/war settings even though I'm not in boost when doing so I feel that it's somewhere in that setting of paramaters. But what do I know, I'm retraded with tuning and computers amonst many other things at times. LOL
besides having terrible grammar like myself Leed thinks it may be an ecu grounding issue, All i have to say is that the car sounds like a stock civic with ricer exhaust at idle to 3500rpm
Try new distributor, ignitor, coil.
Ditch any MSD or other ignition boxes.
Run a new thermostat housing wire... ---- it, run it to the block. Ground issues are compounded by laymen thinking ground is the unibody, or that ground is the negative terminal on the battery, or that ground is on the transmission, or that ground is a painted bracket bolted to a painted transmission, when ground is the block/alternator housing and nothing else. If there's corrosion (or paint!) between any of these items it causes wierd skewage. If multiple bits of the vehicular electrics are grounded in different places you get wierd ground loops and voltage offsets that can do wierd things.
Oh, yah, ditch the FJO box and see what that does for you.
Ditch any MSD or other ignition boxes.
Run a new thermostat housing wire... ---- it, run it to the block. Ground issues are compounded by laymen thinking ground is the unibody, or that ground is the negative terminal on the battery, or that ground is on the transmission, or that ground is a painted bracket bolted to a painted transmission, when ground is the block/alternator housing and nothing else. If there's corrosion (or paint!) between any of these items it causes wierd skewage. If multiple bits of the vehicular electrics are grounded in different places you get wierd ground loops and voltage offsets that can do wierd things.
Oh, yah, ditch the FJO box and see what that does for you.
Originally Posted by Urban Indian
holy ---- write a novel
besides having terrible grammar like myself Leed thinks it may be an ecu grounding issue, All i have to say is that the car sounds like a stock civic with ricer exhaust at idle to 3500rpm
besides having terrible grammar like myself Leed thinks it may be an ecu grounding issue, All i have to say is that the car sounds like a stock civic with ricer exhaust at idle to 3500rpm
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
The ECU is the injector ground, fat fingers.
If you think my fingers are fat, you should see my ****......
Not that Id show you...
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Ditch any MSD or other ignition boxes.
Run a new thermostat housing wire... ---- it, run it to the block. Ground issues are compounded by laymen thinking ground is the unibody, or that ground is the negative terminal on the battery, or that ground is on the transmission, or that ground is a painted bracket bolted to a painted transmission, when ground is the block/alternator housing and nothing else. If there's corrosion (or paint!) between any of these items it causes wierd skewage. If multiple bits of the vehicular electrics are grounded in different places you get wierd ground loops and voltage offsets that can do wierd things.
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
The ECU is the injector ground, fat fingers.
There are four grounds that go to the block that i was told are injector grounds....


