Leed, says "if I didn't know better I would say we are running in vtec the whole time" Followed by me saying, "well I put together the vtec solenoid and didn't have a clue which way was up, it fit this way so we went with it" Followed by Leed changing it to the proper way, thus ending our several hour hunt.



JD, so we should just try running a resistor box instead of the fjo? I implore Leed to chime in and describe the problem further, but from what I can tell, this is the best description of the symptoms that I am able to provide: Car starts and idles with no throttle input. Driving at low throttle input / high vacuum and it does just fine, as you add throttle and get to part throttle + and approx 8" of vacuum, the car falls flat on its face dead. Now if you rape it from low rpm, it will still hit that point, but the momentum of the engine will carry it passed that, all gauges go green, and we start to make spooly noises, we have not taken it passed ~ 0 no actual boost. This phenomenon happened both with Leeds ecu, and Urban Indian's, as well as both with Crome and with Ecutune. Which leeds us to believe (no pun intended) that it is a hardware issue, such as: fjo box, bad ecu ground, tps and iacv plugs swaped, ect...

Tomorrow the plan is to:
-Double check tps and iacv plugs make sure the right one is on each.
-Re-ground everything. Test
-Swap out fjo box, swap in resistor box. Test
-Swap in stock injectors and stock map. Test
-Swap in stock distributor. Test
-If still not solved come back for more advice / results of the tests.

If anyone can think of something to add to that we are all ears.

 

Re ordered for your convenience. Do the easy and probable stuff first. Added the top one for luck.

 

OIC OK.

Add "dial the cam gears back and forth a degree or two, or away from each other to dial out overlap," and see if the rpm range the hiccough occurs at remains consistent.

 

The TPS 'appears' to be reporting good data to the ecu, as per Dlogs. The IACV is responding to inputs. No CEL's.
During the short time I had w/ the car on the road, the issue was repeatable w/ load as the variable.
The main reason I wanted Levi to look at ECU/Sensor pinout grounds, is becuase the ECU was powering up w/ key off, and Dlog USB plugged in. IE, the ECU was drawing power from the USB. I could connect and log data with the key in the off position. I think these two are related.
Even if they are not, it needs to be corrected regardless.

Thinking about it some more, I find it odd that w/ my personal tuning ECU/CROME, this would not occur. Have to think about this some more.

In the end, I feel returning the car to a stock condition (as close as possible), and removing variables such as MSD dizzy, FJO driver, ginormo 1600's, and 4bar map will make diagnosing this fairly straight forward.
Throw in a known good stock ECU as well.

PS, de-pin the purge valve pin that I wired to the dash switch for High/Low boost, and the IAB pin that I ran to the EBC. Again remove all non-stock variables.

 

The very first thing I will be doing is regrounding the whole car. Brett didn't ground the battery as it should have been so grinding down to bare metal and copper coating everything I believe will eliminate some ground issues. Then I will recheck the ground for the thermostat becaust one issue we had was that the plug was getting power but the fan would not turn on. Ground the thermostat housing to the tranny and copper coat. I will check the grounds for my fuel pump setup. Then stock dizzy. Then injector driver box to resistor box.

 

Vaseline your grounds.

That is all.

 

Dilectric grease? I use that if I cannot use copprecoat

 

I'm in florida where there's lots of salt.

I'd imagine in Canada they salt the roads, but yes, dielectric grease. I put that ---- on anything exposed to air.

 

Coppercoat is dielectric with metal flake. Stuff like that has no benefit over regular dielectric, there are SAE papers on it and everything.

 

ok.