vani11aic3

i just did some research, i found out that ppl run sc61 with 8lbs on a stock b16, and on stock b18b's.. i dont know why but they are boosted and running strong

im not sure what could be wronge. i re checked the timing and etc, re did the timing again just to make sure. car is idling fine, took it around the block and seems to be normal. boost is building and holding stronge but car fells like it just sucks ***, anything else that could possibly be wronge? i thought of everything that could possibly be wronge but no conclusion.

even if im running 8lbs it should at least pull like its a turbo car =/

tr4cti0n.i55ues

i think it might be that it is past the surge line. i didn't feel like calculating it for a b18 but for my 1.8 sohc mitsubishi at 10 psi is past the surge line. i say push it to 14psi you dont need to have a 2 bar just tune the last collum for 14 psi and you will run rich between 9psi and 13psi. if it still is slow then look at other things

sixsick6

WTF are you talking about? Past the surge line? Provided your motor can even handle 15 psi, the compressor would be able to push 45lbs/min or roughly 680 CFM and still be in the middle of it's efficiency point at barely 90,000 rpm turbine speed. What you meant to say is that he is operating before the surge line and there is a big difference between what one person says about how their car reacts than another says and what a third says and what a fourth who actually gets on a dyno and realizes that he's gonna need alot more than 8 psi for this turbo to even be effective in the first place.

Bottom line is that the 60-1 has a max Pr of 2.8 (roughly 26 psi) and at a turbine speed of 114,200 is capable of close to 850 CFM.

As said previously, too much turbo with too little boost on too small of an engine. Regardless what other peole are doing and or claiming, that is your problem as well as theirs, they just don't realize it either.

The answer is not always to throw on the largest turbo you can find. More often than not you end up with too much turbo which ends up giving too little result.

0b00st0

Definitely check your cam timing and your ignition timing. And remember that the intake cam gear affects the distributor thereby affecting ignition timing. If you have ever messed with ignition timing mad or cam timing you'd realize how much it plays in making power and where it makes the power. I substracted 8 degrees from my whole map to see what would happen. Slowest POS ever, spooled up quick, but no power.

vani11aic3

yeah i havent really mess with the gears that much. but on a stage 2 turbo cams, they dont have must overlapping at all. its set at 0,0 on intake and exhuast. yeah the fact that this motor was turbo'd before, car just doesnt fell like it turbo'd again. i was disapointed with this set up and i will tune it with over 11-14 psi and see how that goes . im trying to see if anything else could be the problem. thanks for replys all of these info is helpful

ososlohatch

when i say cam timing i mean your car isnt at tdc .. prolly a tooth or two off .. not the adj cam gears them self

0b00st0

Also what I mean too...

If you are off a tooth that's approx 10 degrees off. On the intake cam that means that the ignition is 10 degrees adv or retarded, both are not good.

ososlohatch

i tooth on a honda is exactly 8 degrees but oyu cant just be off one ... you'll be off two ... off one on intake and off one on exhaust puts you a 16 degrees + 0r - .. if your retarded 16 degrees ...then ya it will pull like an all motor zc and still be pushing 8 psi

vani11aic3

ive swear, ive done the timing a few times...
ill take pics and show you guys. i know what you guys means by a tooth and all. =/

FooK

sounds like clutch to me. either that or some seriously rich fuel mixtures.