Slo_crx1

I know this is an older thread, but I'll lend some MHI knowledge into the mix since it's pretty much all I work with these days.
It is possbile to hit 300hp from an e316g on a 2.0 liter, but more often than not it's crank hp, not whp. The problem is at least 2-fold...1 is the amount of hot air that's blown out of these things at the higher psi levels needed to reach that power amount, and 2 is the ability of the 4g63 to swallow hot air and somehow inconceivably keep making power from it. The same turbo on a different motor usually fails pretty badly, and I speak from experience having used 16g's on my first LS motor.
Also to clear the air, the Tdo4 and Tdo5h expressions do refer to exhaust wheels. The tdo5h wheel is considered the most efficient wheel that MHI produces, which is what the "H" lettering stands for ("High" output). There are other wheels variants, but the most common is the Tdo5H and Tdo5HR (High output, Reverse rotation). The Tdo5HR is found on the newer evo8 and 9 variants which usually include them in conjunction with the compressor size and exhaust housing size (Tdo5HR/16g6 9.8 ). Using the newer Evo 8 and 9 MHI turbos it is very possible to crack way over the 300whp range (for all practical purposes they are a small 20g) and usually can sustain around 41 lb/min with ease. Downside is again evident though with the tapering pressure line as the motor reaches peak rpm, as these turbos are designed for more bottom end power and is very hard to keep them above 19psi. This is pretty evident from all MHI turbos though, and has to do with the exhaust housing and the amount of backpressure it makes. This is also why JD's graph of the d16 shows a tapered off power curve. Even the newer FP Green 20gLT's have a hard time breaking into the 400whp range and sustaining a high boost level without drop off, but they are basically a redesigned 50 trim t04e wheel stuffed into the 16g6c/10.2cm housings.
So is it possible to take a 16g to 300hp on a d16? It's possible, but only at a very higher pressure ratio running an advanced timing curve with either race fuel or meth injection. Will it hold? Probably not. They are a good cheap upgrade for the 1st and 2nd gen DSM guys, but I wouldn't recommend them for this application. Flame away!

Tom-Guy

A few things I think you aren't taking into consideration.

I dislike MHI turbos as much as I love LS, but the problem with that statement is that stock LS cams are a bigger form of failure than any MHI turbo.

Also, Hitchhikkr had the slow ****** cammed C6 Z06 with nitrous guys backing down from races against his stock longblock 94 Integra LS with the biggum sexteen gee. Car make 10 psi at 1000 rpms, 24-26 by 3200, an then tapered hard to 11-13 psi by revlimit because...

Oh, yeah, Rob's car boost tapered hard because it was a flaming failure ****** internal cocksmoking wastegate. Plumb a real wastegate in there and you can maintain boost. The way a maxed out compressor appears on a dyno sheet is the way Old Man Blossfield's D16Z6 (305 whp @ 12 psi car above) or Goforth's CRX went down... you don't make any more peak power, but the turbo spools up quicker and the maintains close to peak power for several thousand rpms.

Slo_crx1

I honestly don't think the wastegate setup is the biggest failure, I think the fact that the ecu normally controls the wastegate on the original intended motor is the biggest issue. The actuators themselves are only 12psi actuators and are controlled by the ecu via a boost solenoid, in essence an adjustable ebc depending on the load levels of the motor and the fluctuation of the boost curve. All DSM's use it in stock form, most people tend to replace them with mbc's which is another problem as there is a direct correlation between boost levels and maf frequency. If the two don't coincide, the ecu tends to start doing weird stuff to try and counteract. The way the solenoids are setup it tries to keep a solid boost line all the way to redline, but if boost overshoots it pulls back the duty cycle on the solenoid and boost drops, which is less than the curve specifies so it tries to overshoot it again. I found on my old 16g/LS setup that I was able to hold a solid 17psi to redline if I cracked the wastegate flapper open a hair, kind of the same way the stock DSM solenoid would try to do. If Hitchhikkr cracked it open a hair, I guarantee he won't be making boost lower than 2k and he'll probably maintain a higher psi to redline. Either way, 24-26psi spike is a little too high from a big 16g and that's usually an overboost from too small a wastegate with those turbos.

Tom-Guy

No, it was how the internal gate couldn't hold in the higher rpms when we cranked on the boost controller.

You can blame the problem on Mitsufece's ECUs and how they act, but standalones and MBCs on not-Mitsufeces with internally gated turbos act exactly as I have described. It is a failure in the wastegate design.

crx2211

Good information Slo. You're not blindly heralding the 16g turbos as the hottest ---- money can buy so I have nothing to argue about with you haha. I will add that even though internally gated, the later TD05HR EVO turbos are a whole different animal than the e316g. Not just in sizing, but just the overall advances in design. They are by far one of the best turbos that comes OEM on a vehicle. Still, a Garrett (based in some instances) with the hot ---- HTA (any variant IMO) compressor>any turbocharger made by Mitsu. It's all about design and technology nga's! To Mitsu's credit they've done some awesome stuff recently (turbocharger wise, diesel, and other), but when it comes to turbochargers alone; Garrett wins.

Slo_crx1

I agree 100% with you, and even though I currently run a Tdo5HR/16g6c 10.2cm with a single large flapper 6.5 TME hotside I'd rather swap to a Garrett. Some type of HTA wheel'd garrett would be nice in my case, but right now my funding is a little low lol.