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Old 08-29-2008, 02:43 AM
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240 of a 14b is correct, 300 is fantasy land bullshit. You may or may not be a liar, but if you aren't then you are an inexperienced fool who needs to shut the ---- up. If you are a liar then you need to shut the ---- up anyway. Bottom line, shut the ---- up.

I have yet to see an internal gate turbo control boost AT ALL once turned up past something less than twice the actuator's rating. Spools up big in the midrange and tapers hard in the top end. That's complete and utter crap.
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:48 AM
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Default Re: 16g help

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
240 of a 14b is correct, 300 is fantasy land bullshit. You may or may not be a liar, but if you aren't then you are an inexperienced fool who needs to shut the ---- up. If you are a liar then you need to shut the ---- up anyway. Bottom line, shut the ---- up.

I have yet to see an internal gate turbo control boost AT ALL once turned up past something less than twice the actuator's rating. Spools up big in the midrange and tapers hard in the top end. That's complete and utter crap.
240 on stock boost no fuel ect ect stock 450s stock ecu is it really all that un believable that an extra at least 40hp could be pulled out with of a 8psi gain, fuel and a good tune?

and since twice the actuators rating on a 16g would be around or over 20psi.....nuff said

I was running 16 solid on a 14b with no problem took a "completely stock" other than boost controller dsm and ran high 14s in it shrug that was back in the 14b days which was a few years back but it happened

I have nothing to lie about lol... why the ---- would I lie "scratches head"
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by heli_easy
240 on stock boost no fuel ect ect stock 450s stock ecu is it really all that un believable that an extra at least 40hp could be pulled out with of a 8psi gain, fuel and a good tune?
240 plus 40 is 280, you're still 20 shy dipshit. You are also talking about on a DSM, nearing ~30% AWD drivetrain loss.

I spend between 700 and 800 hours on a dyno per year, primarily with 2WD vehicles with less mechanical losses. I've had my hand in the R&D process of more than one EMS. I'm not a kid, I'm not a n00b, I'm not stupid, and I don't like to listen to crap. You fail.

I also tune cars that break 300 whp in the 7-12 psi range, some make 400 by 11 psi, off of 1.6-2.0 liters. Fine boost control is needed.
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
240 plus 40 is 280, you're still 20 shy dipshit. You are also talking about on a DSM, nearing ~30% AWD drivetrain loss.

I spend between 700 and 800 hours on a dyno per year, primarily with 2WD vehicles with less mechanical losses. I've had my hand in the R&D process of more than one EMS. I'm not a kid, I'm not a n00b, I'm not stupid, and I don't like to listen to crap. You fail.

I also tune cars that break 300 whp in the 7-12 psi range, some make 400 by 11 psi, off of 1.6-2.0 liters. Fine boost control is needed.
I said around and I have seen plenty over 280 and I would consider than around 300hp I guess its kind of the way you look at things dipshit.

talking about mechanical drive train loss. Just if people wanted to they could micro surface finished the gears in the differential and gained 6hp, at the wheels. If you do that in the two differentials, the transmission, add in lower rotating mass of lighter wheels, drive shaft, flywheel, you could easily be seeing more than 30 extra hp to the tires. Just in the drive train alone you can free up a lot of power robbing friction... just an example... "shrug" v8 guys do it all the time.

you may do that and I bet your dynographs look just like every other honda dyno graph making sub 200hp untill 6500 rpm's + lol
the internet is cluttered with ---- like that yeah it makes big hp for a couple thousand rpm haha





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Old 08-29-2008, 03:43 AM
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D16Z6, that's a 1.6 liter. Almost breaks 300 at 6500, 12 psi:





B16, Skank2 Stage2 cams, 8.5:1 CR, T67, pumpgas. This is what I call a laggy piece of ----. Still makes 300 by 6500:




Here's a pumpgas H22 with a small T04B. They always have nice meaty graphs. 200 whp at 6500 what?




How about a ****** NA 1.8 liter with a dinky *** 75 shot? Nope, still not managing a mere 200 at 6500!




This is a stock block GSR with pistons and rods, run of the mill T04E hybrid. It's cracking 350 at 6500, though. I'll keep digging, maybe I can replicate your ****** ------- 200 at 6500 claim so you can feel good about FINALLY GETTING SOMETHING RIGHT.




Here's another stock sleeve B18, still not seeing something as small and ****** as 200 by 6500.




Here's the same car on 8-9 psi wastegate, nope still not 200@6500.




Hey, I found a stock GSR with a ported head, Inline Pro cast manifold that's sure to flow like ----, stone age .60 trim T04E hybrid, and - get this! - only running a mere 6 psi. Goddamn, still doing better than 200@6500, wtf??




Damn, even the ****** no-displacement gutless B16's make more than 200@6500 at 10 psi.




Another stock sleeve D16Z6. Man, what if you were completely wrong? You know, like you;ve been completely wrong about everything else you've said?





WAIT! WAIT! DO WE HAVE SUCCESS? Not really, it was a TT/Vitara D16 running a ****** ------- internally gated MHI failure turbo, all boost did was taper so it was impossible to make any real power.







Damn, dude, sorry to make you look like a ------- tard. I know it's really all your fault, but still i feel for you. Really I do.





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Old 08-29-2008, 03:45 AM
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Default Re: 16g help

bwahahahhahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahhahahahah

you need a ------- hug
or bj
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:46 AM
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You need to learn something. Anything. Just get something right, even if it's only once in your life.
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
You need to learn something. Anything. Just get something right, even if it's only once in your life.
Im not here to argue about honda's or how most people make some real inefficient tune and turbo setups on them
I am fully aware that that are just as capable as the next engine
yet
more often than not there dyno graph looks something


I have gotten plenty right it just happens I am arguing with a bunch of garrett sackriders

I have personally seen street driven LS stock internal hondas make 300hp+ on a evoIII turbo no feat of man kind or anything that what this whole swinging dick thing started over...

and the fact that for a small turbocharger they outperform a garrett of the same size typically...... then ---- got out of hand people started comparing them to 60trim garrett units and ----... thats like comparing my white man dick to a mandingo.

I simply point out that making 300hp on a 16g happens regularly and 2.0s have seen over 400 on pump with bolt on's its not rocket science it just takes a good tune and well thought out setup... you being the tuner you are should be able to understand that... remember a 16g is happy running above 25psi.. and that key people yes are making around 500hp with different fuels... I am sure you are aware of what e85 can do.

you can think mhi turbos are dog ---- all you want but I have changed more garrett units im sorry maybe its my luck but I sure the hell have pulled enough garrett units to believe so. It seems like the higher end garretts do okay but as i listed above I have seen a lot of dog crap garrett units I have seen mhi units go bad but no near as often. and I have deff. dealt with more mhi units than garrett.



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Old 08-29-2008, 04:16 AM
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My roomate has campaigned an endless succession of MHI turbos on his Integra, and now his CRX. He has them laying around like so many wads of toilet paper from the days when he owned a Mitsufeces. He'll agree that they are small shaft failure turbos that break shafts when overspun. The larger frame MHI units might be decent, but the TD04 and TD05 frame units leave me unimpressed.

I have had no problem with NIB Garretts, but the 20 year old thrice rebuilt 300k+ mile OEM units are all piles of steamy fail. If I am on any bandwagon it would be Holset, as I own two of them and only one Garrett, and one K04. I'm not a big fan of the "higher end" Garretts as they are all ball bearing failure units. I prefer a journal bearing turbo any day of the week.
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:03 PM
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Default Re: 16g help

The truth of the matter is that you have both me and JD arguing against you. You've made some valid points, but they don't pertain to the debate. I consider myself knowledgeable when it comes to turbochargers, but JD has been at this forever and definitely isn't talking out of his ***. You obviously have it set in your head that the e316g is a super badass turbo that can't be stopped and is the answer for anyone looking to make 400whp> on a pump gas 4-banger with the stock ECU and mild bolt-ons. It really isn't. No doubt the Garrett turbos you've worked with haven't been that great. Keep in mind that PTE, AGP, etc all are Garrett turbos that are modified by a non-OEM distributor, so that needs to be taken into account. A true factory Garrett turbo is a thing of beauty and pound for pound can't be beat. I'm only a Garrett sackrider because I appreciate quality and performance, and the Garrett offers that. I've had mixed results with the e316g. I've seen them fail miserably at 20psi< and really am not impressed by their top-end. Anyway, it's all been said before, so think what you want lol. Mitsu turbos need sackriders too or else they'd go out of business. They're definitely better than Toyota turbos rofl.

But yeah man, you're still a noob on this site; IDC if you're the most JDM bawler tyte technician, you still have to make a good first impression. Arguing with me and an OG about gay Mitsu turbos isn't that. Post ****, pictures of your build, useful information, etc. I think it's time to shut your cocktrap and get off your soap box!
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