Fabrication Everything From JBwelded/Fluxcored downpipes to Equal length SS Manifolds.

FAB-ulous (pics)

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Old 02-06-2007, 12:33 AM
  #21  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

Originally Posted by Toysrme
Very nice man! Must be awesome to have a brother like that!



Stacking dimes is good for TIG, but can't that be a no-no in some cases running wire? I coulda swore I got told that like my second or so stringer bead I did. Eh. Maybe not.

Good parts tho!
Yeah..thats a really steady hand..i'm all over the place when using fcaw/MIG. I wish I could weld good on actual parts..for some reason I can lay good beads down when i'm practicing but when it comes down to making stuff for my car nothing ever looks nice, I always have to blob the ---- out of it.
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Old 02-06-2007, 04:53 AM
  #22  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

Educate me....Why is the "stacked dimes" not good with a mig?
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:14 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

Well you don't get good enough penetration on a skip weld. What happens when you skip weld there is a gap in penatration and this could cause it to break on extreme loads. On a structal part like that you have to have everything perfect. What they taught us in school is just to draw the bead straight down with would moving back and forth. We had to test out welds when I was in school and we got to see what would happen when they failed. They will usually brake on the base metal on a good weld. On a bad weld it could break in the middle of the weld or just break off the weld completely for not having good penetration.

but yes the orange on the metal isn't good. His heat zones look very small which is good.
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:20 PM
  #24  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

I'm gonna go ahead and stick with "10 years not one broken weld"

I've had a local with this longarm kit get t-boned at 25mph, and roll his cherokee. He pulled that kit off and put it on another Jeep, still perfect.
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Old 02-07-2007, 05:24 PM
  #25  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

I asked my instructor today. He said the same thing. He didn't go into it much & I honestly don't remember exactly what he said. But the gist of it was:
Everybody's different
he'd much preffer see someone gmaw a weld face that was as uniform as possible because a weld is only as strong at it's weakest point.
And that while I can't quote off-hand. There are specifications for a maximum allowable amount of rippling, but there is no specification to how uniform a weld can be.

Maybe Engloid will show up & actually explain it hardcore like.






I don't mean nothing by it ****. I'm just trying to apply what I learn every day. :P
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Old 02-11-2007, 04:13 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

That weld looks like it was done by a robot, seriously the robots that weld the GM truck frames dont even do that well of a job half the time, I know this because I used to watch them do their thing then fix whatever they screw up.
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:31 PM
  #27  
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Default Re: FAB-ulous (pics)

Originally Posted by Xgenturbo
That weld looks like it was done by a robot, seriously the robots that weld the GM truck frames dont even do that well of a job half the time, I know this because I used to watch them do their thing then fix whatever they screw up.
With the "ripple' effect, there is nothing wrong with it, unless there is too much undercut at one of the "toes" of the ripples and then that causes a stress riser which in turn could cause failure (ex. cracking). By looking at the the piece welded there is no excessive undercut (very very little undercut) and the material being as thick as it is, there is no way it would break, crack or fail in any manner, unless blown up by a tank.

And as for the robots at Formet, if the weld is taught right, by say, me, then all our welds would look that good too. You have to remember we are on an assembly line trying to make the frames as quick as possible and unfortunetly quality and apearance take a back seat, oh and our material gets no thicker than 3mm which makes it harder when getting into those tight areas and not burning through
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