Fabrication Everything From JBwelded/Fluxcored downpipes to Equal length SS Manifolds.

Charge piping

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Old 10-26-2005, 05:42 PM
  #11  
0.5 BAR
 
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 58
Default Re: Charge piping

couple of things, try going to a large truck repairs shop (kenworth, peterbilt, etc.) and buy truck radiator hose in the sizes you need. Its not supper cheap but much cheaper than buying individual silicone connectors. The stuff works great and is much better than home depot or lowes plumbing connectors. Combine the hose with good clamps and they won't slip loose ate even very high boost levels without any beads rolled or welds on the pipe. I've 30psi on my track car and never blown a hose. I blew them all the time with the cheap couplers, plus they tend to get soft and ballon or rip over time. Anyways, you can buy the stuff by the foot and just cut the size coupler that you need. Now as far as the beads on the pipe go, if you want to have it done, check some of the local machine shops, some of them may have a bead roller that they usually charge very little per bead. Heck, if you are out here in Kansas, I'd do it pretty cheap for you as I have a beadroller...never used it on my pipes, but done quite a few sets for others.
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:23 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: Charge piping

I just went doen to one of the local hose and fitting places and bought some silicone hose.The stuff looks to be of better quality than most couplers i see out there and the cost wasn't to bad.It is sold by the foot and 2 feet was tons for my project as I had lots left over.Make sure to by good hose clamps that have a sleeve inside to avoid the slots cutting into the silicone.I had to buy one transition 90 going from 2-2.5 in a 90 and it was like 50-60 US
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