ls/vtec
I"m getting CP pistons, and Eagle rods and putting the ls/vtec in and then put the turbo on 
What should I shift at with a stock b16 head with GSR cams?
Eventually I'm getting cams and full valvetrain.

What should I shift at with a stock b16 head with GSR cams?
Eventually I'm getting cams and full valvetrain.
The stock OBD1+ B16 head, with GSR cams, will go pretty close to 9K on stock valvetrain. You really need (exhaust) springs at that point, but I know a few people who cheaped out and got away with it.
What your bottom end can handle is another thing.
What your bottom end can handle is another thing.
Tuning is more important than what parts you throw into the engine.
Keep in mind rpms are tensile loads, whereas combustion pressures are compressive loads. I've seen stock PR4 rods running 8500 rpms daily in B20/VTECs, with heavy 84mm slugs on the end of them, with reliability. Adding boost doesn't hurt so much, but the OEM rods aren't as strong as aftermarket - you detonate, they fold. And I'm not talking audible detonation, a touch or two of high-freq aka inaudible with the associated pressure spikes.
Aftermarket forgings are not god, either. They just handle a little more abuse, but you spend $$$ for a split instance.
Keep in mind rpms are tensile loads, whereas combustion pressures are compressive loads. I've seen stock PR4 rods running 8500 rpms daily in B20/VTECs, with heavy 84mm slugs on the end of them, with reliability. Adding boost doesn't hurt so much, but the OEM rods aren't as strong as aftermarket - you detonate, they fold. And I'm not talking audible detonation, a touch or two of high-freq aka inaudible with the associated pressure spikes.
Aftermarket forgings are not god, either. They just handle a little more abuse, but you spend $$$ for a split instance.
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Tuning is more important than what parts you throw into the engine.
Keep in mind rpms are tensile loads, whereas combustion pressures are compressive loads. I've seen stock PR4 rods running 8500 rpms daily in B20/VTECs, with heavy 84mm slugs on the end of them, with reliability. Adding boost doesn't hurt so much, but the OEM rods aren't as strong as aftermarket - you detonate, they fold. And I'm not talking audible detonation, a touch or two of high-freq aka inaudible with the associated pressure spikes.
Aftermarket forgings are not god, either. They just handle a little more abuse, but you spend $$$ for a split instance.
Keep in mind rpms are tensile loads, whereas combustion pressures are compressive loads. I've seen stock PR4 rods running 8500 rpms daily in B20/VTECs, with heavy 84mm slugs on the end of them, with reliability. Adding boost doesn't hurt so much, but the OEM rods aren't as strong as aftermarket - you detonate, they fold. And I'm not talking audible detonation, a touch or two of high-freq aka inaudible with the associated pressure spikes.
Aftermarket forgings are not god, either. They just handle a little more abuse, but you spend $$$ for a split instance.
we all know stock honda cast aluminum pistons and rods would hold 500horse if they just let guys from japan TuNe Da EnGinE
What tuning system should I use? I can get hondata for about $350 and it comes with everything. Or should I just get Uberdata? I've got a turbo kit, well everything but the manifold. The turbo is a T3 T4 .60ar. and i need some injectors and a down pipe also. I'm getting closer to getting it peiced together. O yea I got a spearco intercooler. Its nice. I got fmu but i'm selling it.
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