help with brakes
#12
Re: help with brakes
Originally Posted by zex_cool
when i did my drum/disc conversion i only bleed the four weels not the MC. this is how you do it. let your dad pump the pedal until it gets hard, make sure he has the brake pedal pushed in, then loosen the nipple(or whatever its called)then tight it. do that a few times 3 or 4 on each wheel. handle brake has nothing to do with it.
Also, if you are 100% sure you have all the air out you can try to adjust the rears up a little (if you have drum still, if you have disc, ignore that last bit)
Worst case scenario, grab a Haynes book and thatll tell and show you how to bench bleed masters. Good luck.
#16
Re: help with brakes
yes, rebleed all 4 corners after your done bleeding the master (bench bleeding). Good rule of thumb is to start farthest away from master and work your way closer (ie RR, LR, RF, LF).
You are one lucky ****** if you didnt have to bleed your master after installing it and you didnt have a shitty pedal and/or pedal to the floor every once in a while.
Originally Posted by zex_cool
I also put in a used EX MC, because of the discs in the rear. didnt do anything with my MC just bleed the four calipers. do it over again and make sure the pedal gets hard.
#18
Re: help with brakes
Originally Posted by psycho_vince
You are one lucky ****** if you didnt have to bleed your master after installing it and you didnt have a shitty pedal and/or pedal to the floor every once in a while.
ABS dose not matter either
#19
Re: help with brakes
That potentially throws another problem into it. Im not sure if your ABS module has bleeders on it or not, but if it does, it may be to your benefeit if you bleed that also, (after the master, before the wheels). I dont have ABS, so I dont know if Hondas have bleeders on the modules or not (most ABS cars do, if not all, some also have resorviors like the older Accords), if not, then just work the air out by bleeding the wheels. If you dont see bleeders on it, it can get complicated.
For instance, we had a VW Golf w/ ABS blow a brake line, replaced it, bleed the system (had to put tension on the rear wheels b/c of the height/load sensing prop valve) and then intermittently, the ABS would kick on, and the pedal would sink to the floor, no brakes. We find out that the ABS module needed bleeding. To do that, we had to hook the scanner up to it and actuate the indvidual solenoids inside to get the air out. That was a cluster ----. The car was in the shop 2 days before we got a scan tool that would communicate w/ VWs. What a ---- design.
Anyway, it CAN get complicated, but your cars not German, so its probably not that bad. You may want to invest 10 bucks in a Haynes manual (avail at any parts store) and check to see exactly what the ABS bleeding procedure is. Good luck, you may have a task at hand.
For instance, we had a VW Golf w/ ABS blow a brake line, replaced it, bleed the system (had to put tension on the rear wheels b/c of the height/load sensing prop valve) and then intermittently, the ABS would kick on, and the pedal would sink to the floor, no brakes. We find out that the ABS module needed bleeding. To do that, we had to hook the scanner up to it and actuate the indvidual solenoids inside to get the air out. That was a cluster ----. The car was in the shop 2 days before we got a scan tool that would communicate w/ VWs. What a ---- design.
Anyway, it CAN get complicated, but your cars not German, so its probably not that bad. You may want to invest 10 bucks in a Haynes manual (avail at any parts store) and check to see exactly what the ABS bleeding procedure is. Good luck, you may have a task at hand.
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