Re:bassing it up
 

My 12" alpine type-r's (1241-d) sounded helluh clean, but it took too much juice to push em. When pushed with an alpine MRD-M1000 though, they gave a nice clean wallop. The all pure digital MRD's are CLEAN.

EDIT: Page 3 OwNage

Re:bassing it up
 

alpine type R 15s (1541's) are just sick subs. Rockwood is a crappy rockford fosgate ripoff brand. Actual rockford fosgate stuff is pretty good, their high end subs are pretty good but their older style punch amps are excellent, just excellent, the only downside to them is that they tend to run hot and be current hogs, what do you expect with a class a/b amp?

Re:bassing it up
 

I expect big big titties.

respl.com still hasn't returned my e-mail, let's ban them.

Re:bassing it up
 

omg that is the best video evar :o

Re:bassing it up
 

it was alright, it could have been better, but it was still alright.

Re:bassing it up
 

Well, I'm kinda bored (just sat through 3 hours of Defensive Driving............That Crap Blows!)
Anyway, here's the skinny from start to finish (56K, this aint go be pretty for ya)
I'm going to assume you understand the basics of fibergalss and skip all that.
First figure out where you're going to put the sub(s) and make a mold of that area. To make the mold, lay tape or plastic in that space to use as "release" and to protect the areas around the enclosure (fiberglass can be messy, especially if you're new to it). From there simply mix some resin and start layin strips.

http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...0Box/mold1.JPG

The above was produced with about 1.5 Gallons of resins and 4 Yards of FiberGlass cloth. You may use more or less depending on the area/size and how thick you want your enclosure.

Next comes placement of the rings (which I made with 3/4" MDF)
http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...0Box/mold2.JPG

You can do this differently. Like you can take a solid sheet of wood and lay it straight across the top of the mold and use it to mount your woofer(s). Or you could use pieces of wood shaped how you want them and fibergalss them in place. All types of options once the "tub" is created. Anyhow, I digress.

To get the rings into positions of my liking. I simply cut pieces of MDF to use as dowels to get the angles I needed and hot glued them in place. (again this can be accomplished many other ways, just telling how I do it)
Next I stretched fleece (yep, just like that used in Old Navy Sweaters) tightly across the tub, stapled and/or glued in order to hold the shape I needed.
http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...moldfleece.JPG

I then mixed resin up and painted it across the fleece. I probably used close to a Gallon (give or take a few ounces)
Once that dried, knowing I was going to paint it, I sanded, Dynaglassed, sanded, Bondo and sanded a bit more then opened up the cut outs for the woofers and it looked like so
http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...assfleece1.JPG

I did a quick test fit to check height (wanted it as close to floor line as possible)
http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...subtestfit.JPG

Then I lathered on some interior matching enamel (though I knew the box was going to be covered up, still wanted it to look "finished")
http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...denclosure.JPG

The rest was simply a matter of building panels (1/4" miter board for weights sake)
http://home.earthlink.net/~my50ainsl...x/panelbox.jpg

Hope this Helps


[img]

Re:bassing it up
 

How sturdy is that fiberglass ----? Like, does it vibrate at all when the subs hit; how did you anchor it to the spare tire well so it doesn't rattle, etc.... That's a nice how-to.

Re:bassing it up
 

maybe you aren't such an ------- afterall. Now I understand a bit better how to kill, kill, kill and ---- ---- up. I've been thinking about eliminating the rear seat in my civ hatch and just having a crx looking thing back there with maybe some subs in it, this way it looks cool and I won't have to drive people around. I also think it would be sick nasty if I could make my doors, hatch, fenders, and hood out of fiberglass so I could be 1337 and have a lighter car.

Re:bassing it up
 

Resonate Engineering finally e-mailed my ass back with the prices, here you muthaz go:

RE8- $49
RE10- $59
RE12- $69

SE10- $149
SE12- $169
SE15- $199

SX10- $239
SX12- $249
SX15- $269
SX18- $309

XXX10- $359
XXX12- $369
XXX15- $399
XXX18- $429

MT10- $409
MT12- $419
MT15- $449
MT18- $479

there is a $25 charge to upgrade the MT or XXX line to a quad voice coil configuration.



$479 just for a speaker? damn.

Re:bassing it up
 

the old hx2 15's were the bomb. but alpine type r 15's pwn me.