Turbo I bought
11-19-2007, 04:38 PM
#22
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 51
Re: Turbo I bought
Hey IFLY87,
Love the set-up, but I was hoping to keep the A.C. I don't much care about the P.S. if I can get a non P.S. rack. I don't think the stock rack is geared the same. The non P.S. should be geared for better advantage at the steering wheel. I still don't have the turbo so I can't size it up to the car and see if even fits with the A.C. stuff in place. Forgive me for being such a N
B, but I am kind of new to the import scene and turbos in general. I graduated from MMI 10 years ago and have been working as a mechanic in prototype development and durability testing for about 91/2 years. I built my first motor solo when I was 17 and it lived a long torture-ue life. But, here is another noob question:
I think I remember seeing something about slim-line fans for the radiator and that other thing (the company I work for doesn't make anything with A.C.) for the A.C. that looks like another radiator. Any idea if they work, price, and were to get them? If I could knock an inch or two off of that thing I would have all the room in the world. I know keeping A.C. isn’t hard core and I'm kind of a -----, but I live in the south. It gets over 100 deg F. at least 20 days a year and stays above 90 from April till October. I drive this car 110-120(depends on whether or not I go to lunch) miles per day, five to six days a week. When it's that hot, taking the top off doesn’t do anything but blow hotter air on you. It's like using a blow drier to make ice cubes. The seller of these parts said that the manifold was A.C. compliant and I showed him a pic of the drag manifold he said it was(which should work with A.C.) the same. I hope so, because I passed on a few log manifolds and a cast iron with the flange off-set to the passenger slide that were priced very well. I guess if it was made by drag, it should work out better than those E-bay drag knock-offs that sell for a C-note or so. I still haven't been able to find cheap new log manifolds for a good price.
I don't know what I'm going to do for a down pipe yet. I looked at the EBay "intercooler piping and charge piping" kits on EBay, but not sure if I can trust any of that stuff. I though about buying one of the $800 EBay kits and just replacing the turbo with something of better Quality but I don't have that kind of cash left. Stupid me spent money building up the chassis before making more power. I also had to have black leather GSR seats. I originally was buying an Integra and selling the sol but couldn't find anything I wanted for the money I had. Then I figured I could make more wheel power with a turbo than I could with a stock GSR or a GSR swap into the sol. Many people had said that the turbo-ed d16 was about the best bang-for-the-buck option I had with the limited funds. Then, after I started buying parts, I got a letter from the state license people stating that my driving privileges have been revoked and I have to pay them $300+ in order to get it back. Guess I shouldn't have bought that rice-rocket. t seems that no matter how old or smart you are, if you have something with a power-to-weight ratio of Five(lbs) to 1(hp) that tries to pull the wheel off the ground in the first three gears, you are going to play with it. Anyhow, that is why I have switched from well funded, do-it-right project to a what-can-I-get-away-with set-up. Sucks but I guess I needed a first time boost project to learn from before I drop in the built D16Z6. I hope this thing lasts a while, but if I blow it up, I've been collecting parts for a well built Z6 with a ported later model head, ZC rods, and either slightly higher compression, or slightly lower compression. I don't know yet. Logic tells that boosted=lower compression. However, the old one’s theory that turbo-ed engines should have higher compression to help with “before boost” conditions and spool times. If I remember correctly, he said that a proper spec-ed cam for such engine will have enough over-lap and intake valve timing(closing late) to bleed off the extra compression when it’s not needed. (My though here)à especialy with V-tec, you could have X-amount of overlap to bleed-off compression at low speeds and have Y-amount (less or more, I don’t friking know) at higher speeds when the cam timing is optimized. Problem is, I don’t have the time, money, brains, or equipment to develop the correct number or produce the actual hard parts. So, screw-it! Theory is as worthless as a fat chick with tiny ****, unless you can take it and create something with it.
Not even sure what the point of this was, I must have zoned out while asking a question or something, but I spent too much time typing this not to post it. Thanks guys.
Anyone have a smaller turbo that was built by a custom shop that they want to trade for this monster? The car I’m trying to build right now has great throttle response and real good power up-top. It looks like this turbo would make the sol sluggish down low and a fricking rocket up high. I like the idea that it’s big enough to expand my expectations once the built motor is in place, but that isn’t my target right now. I hate to loose it since I doubt I will ever have the cash to buy another custom built turbo with zero miles on it, but hell, if isn’t what I need, then I guess it gets booted. Crap, now I have to rethink my whole set-up.
Love the set-up, but I was hoping to keep the A.C. I don't much care about the P.S. if I can get a non P.S. rack. I don't think the stock rack is geared the same. The non P.S. should be geared for better advantage at the steering wheel. I still don't have the turbo so I can't size it up to the car and see if even fits with the A.C. stuff in place. Forgive me for being such a N
B, but I am kind of new to the import scene and turbos in general. I graduated from MMI 10 years ago and have been working as a mechanic in prototype development and durability testing for about 91/2 years. I built my first motor solo when I was 17 and it lived a long torture-ue life. But, here is another noob question:I think I remember seeing something about slim-line fans for the radiator and that other thing (the company I work for doesn't make anything with A.C.) for the A.C. that looks like another radiator. Any idea if they work, price, and were to get them? If I could knock an inch or two off of that thing I would have all the room in the world. I know keeping A.C. isn’t hard core and I'm kind of a -----, but I live in the south. It gets over 100 deg F. at least 20 days a year and stays above 90 from April till October. I drive this car 110-120(depends on whether or not I go to lunch) miles per day, five to six days a week. When it's that hot, taking the top off doesn’t do anything but blow hotter air on you. It's like using a blow drier to make ice cubes. The seller of these parts said that the manifold was A.C. compliant and I showed him a pic of the drag manifold he said it was(which should work with A.C.) the same. I hope so, because I passed on a few log manifolds and a cast iron with the flange off-set to the passenger slide that were priced very well. I guess if it was made by drag, it should work out better than those E-bay drag knock-offs that sell for a C-note or so. I still haven't been able to find cheap new log manifolds for a good price.
I don't know what I'm going to do for a down pipe yet. I looked at the EBay "intercooler piping and charge piping" kits on EBay, but not sure if I can trust any of that stuff. I though about buying one of the $800 EBay kits and just replacing the turbo with something of better Quality but I don't have that kind of cash left. Stupid me spent money building up the chassis before making more power. I also had to have black leather GSR seats. I originally was buying an Integra and selling the sol but couldn't find anything I wanted for the money I had. Then I figured I could make more wheel power with a turbo than I could with a stock GSR or a GSR swap into the sol. Many people had said that the turbo-ed d16 was about the best bang-for-the-buck option I had with the limited funds. Then, after I started buying parts, I got a letter from the state license people stating that my driving privileges have been revoked and I have to pay them $300+ in order to get it back. Guess I shouldn't have bought that rice-rocket. t seems that no matter how old or smart you are, if you have something with a power-to-weight ratio of Five(lbs) to 1(hp) that tries to pull the wheel off the ground in the first three gears, you are going to play with it. Anyhow, that is why I have switched from well funded, do-it-right project to a what-can-I-get-away-with set-up. Sucks but I guess I needed a first time boost project to learn from before I drop in the built D16Z6. I hope this thing lasts a while, but if I blow it up, I've been collecting parts for a well built Z6 with a ported later model head, ZC rods, and either slightly higher compression, or slightly lower compression. I don't know yet. Logic tells that boosted=lower compression. However, the old one’s theory that turbo-ed engines should have higher compression to help with “before boost” conditions and spool times. If I remember correctly, he said that a proper spec-ed cam for such engine will have enough over-lap and intake valve timing(closing late) to bleed off the extra compression when it’s not needed. (My though here)à especialy with V-tec, you could have X-amount of overlap to bleed-off compression at low speeds and have Y-amount (less or more, I don’t friking know) at higher speeds when the cam timing is optimized. Problem is, I don’t have the time, money, brains, or equipment to develop the correct number or produce the actual hard parts. So, screw-it! Theory is as worthless as a fat chick with tiny ****, unless you can take it and create something with it.
Not even sure what the point of this was, I must have zoned out while asking a question or something, but I spent too much time typing this not to post it. Thanks guys.
Anyone have a smaller turbo that was built by a custom shop that they want to trade for this monster? The car I’m trying to build right now has great throttle response and real good power up-top. It looks like this turbo would make the sol sluggish down low and a fricking rocket up high. I like the idea that it’s big enough to expand my expectations once the built motor is in place, but that isn’t my target right now. I hate to loose it since I doubt I will ever have the cash to buy another custom built turbo with zero miles on it, but hell, if isn’t what I need, then I guess it gets booted. Crap, now I have to rethink my whole set-up.
I guess I don't understand.
12-17-2007, 10:08 PM
#25
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 51
Re: Turbo I bought
Ok, I now know exactly what turbo this is. It is this turbo http://www.blaastperformance.com/index.php?p=t3t04e-46
with the 0.63/.050 option. I talked with an older sounding man with a acsent at blasst and he told me that it turbo bo would work ok with my motor. He then informed me that swaping out the turbine housing would turn in into the other turbo on that page the .048/.050 and that would be a very good turbo for my motor. So my next questions are: Will any t3 turbine housing mount up to this turbo? Blaast made me a good deal on a swap for the other housing and I will most likely do. however, I would like to know if all t3 turbine housings are basicaly the same except the A/R and the flange patteren. I wanted to use a V-band for the down pipe anyhow and I guess a T3 .48 A/R turbine V-band housing would be an option, but I don't really know. Can you buy these things? If so, where? I looked in a lot of places and only found a few old worn out 5 bolt housing on Ebay. Is this something that you can get at just about any turbo shop, but they don't list on there sites or something? I will call blaast back tomorrow and ask if that is an option.
I want to use the V-band because it is going to be very tight with the DP and the A.C. compressor and it should be easier and maybe even allow for alittle more room. Also, the downpipe I want to use only comes with the V-band and I don't want to pay over one hundred bucks for something I have to cut up and get rewelded. If I wanted to do the cut and weld thing, I don't have to buy a prefab DP at all.
with the 0.63/.050 option. I talked with an older sounding man with a acsent at blasst and he told me that it turbo bo would work ok with my motor. He then informed me that swaping out the turbine housing would turn in into the other turbo on that page the .048/.050 and that would be a very good turbo for my motor. So my next questions are: Will any t3 turbine housing mount up to this turbo? Blaast made me a good deal on a swap for the other housing and I will most likely do. however, I would like to know if all t3 turbine housings are basicaly the same except the A/R and the flange patteren. I wanted to use a V-band for the down pipe anyhow and I guess a T3 .48 A/R turbine V-band housing would be an option, but I don't really know. Can you buy these things? If so, where? I looked in a lot of places and only found a few old worn out 5 bolt housing on Ebay. Is this something that you can get at just about any turbo shop, but they don't list on there sites or something? I will call blaast back tomorrow and ask if that is an option.
I want to use the V-band because it is going to be very tight with the DP and the A.C. compressor and it should be easier and maybe even allow for alittle more room. Also, the downpipe I want to use only comes with the V-band and I don't want to pay over one hundred bucks for something I have to cut up and get rewelded. If I wanted to do the cut and weld thing, I don't have to buy a prefab DP at all.
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