89 CRX Si

That looks good to me.

Ya the thing would be get your block and head clayed. haha Breaking valves isnt cool.

Ok so what we got here Is:

8.7:1 compression ratio is sweet for turbo.

Deck the head and block 20mm - 25mm(providing adequate clearence) to clean it all up and get 2 good mating surfaces. This will also bring the compression ratio up from the previous stated 8.27:1

This setup will yield not much loss over stock off the line but much higher boost capabilities.


Now:


b16 rods or b18 rods? What is the tensile strentgh on each How much stress can they take before they snap like twigs?

This is assuming you megnaflux them and shotpeen the rods.

Are there good high quality rings avaiable for the supra TT piston?

This forum is pumping keep it up a lot of good info here...


Mods... Are we starting an acrchive or snyhting like that? If not I would think I will have to.

HMT-Admin

75.0mm is stock bore on ZC&D16 a6/z6/y8's
90.0mm Stroke

The tensionar can only adjust so much guys, .50mm is a bit much..

I personally think this setup is ----, stock B-series rods are not the best thing in the world either. Honestly when you are rebuilding a bottom end, That is one thing I would never cheap out on, but that is just my opinion.

Jeff

shortyz

yeah guys. im just thinking..
all that work for nothing really
who makes some nice beefy D series rods..

HMT-Admin

What like 375 for eagle rods? and about 650 for Crowers.

Jeff

shortyz

375 aint bad at all..

jthelman

WTF?

Let me get this straight.

You buy used pistons, and somewhat beefier OEM rods for $400. You then deck block to get the compression back to what I still consider a low 8.7:1 (machine work -- $$$). You then hope like hell that the tensioner can suck up that much slack. We then have to buy timing gears ($$$) dyno time ($$$) and screw around to get timing right.

Explain to me why it isn't worth doing this the right way with SRPs + Eagle rods for about $900? You get a non rigged setup that can handle way more abuse than a bunch of used and cobbled parts.

BTW: I figure dropping that extra .4 on the compression will kill off about 10 HP. On an engine that produces ~108HP, this is a nice drop. Yes, you get it back, but not until boost kicks in.

John

kamaleon

read the provided thread entirelly..
this is a condensed info about it.

there is a guy that has a d16y8 boosting over 1 bar (14psi)that uses 'used' tt pistons and b16 rods that are machined and put together in order to work. along with this he uses a block guard. he claims that there is a 1mm less in height lowering the compression from stock.

Only thing needed next is a b16 bering that also needs to be machined in order to fit into the D bottom end. machined deck is not necesary, only if u want to increase compression. I think you could use a thinner head gasket if u want to increase compresion.

i dunno how much bearing cost and shouldnt be much to make it fit.

originally this setup is intended for people on a tight budget that 'only' wants to boost safely no more than 1.3bar (18psi)

and yes, you need tunning to make anything work.. hondata/zydane,etc