NOSCIVIC

I have a mitsu teo4h

ssl2k

Wee here we go again

You are wrong. No, don't question it. You are. Nuff said, now shut up and sit down. Already sitting down? Good. Now shut the ---- up.

y7 bottom end + y8 head = 9.6-9.8:1 compression, not this magical 10.5+ ----.

if you put any d15 block w/ a d16 head, you'll get around 9.8:1 to 10:1ish cr. Not anywhere near your 10.5:1.

Since when does a d15b7 head flow better than a d16y8 head?

and

Since when has adding a turbo increase the compression ratio of your motor?...


9.6-9.8:1 compression isn't ----. Said it before and will say it again. I know a guy that is running a mini-me d15z6 and running 10-14psi on a ------- FMU and it has been running perfectly fine for quite a while.

Now that the noob bashing is done, back to the orignal author's questions.

y7+y8 would be great for boost. 200whp? easy. want to make it? sell the teo4h and pickup a 60/48 t3/t4 s-trim. hotrex was running it on his built motor. made 251whp at like 14-16psi? I could quote him saying somewhere that it wouldn't spool until like 4000-4500 but once it did, it hit like a pile of bricks. Going to make 200whp on a t-25? ---- no.

bbka/pat is making 230whp on his stock z6 right now running uberdata he has a straight 60/48.

some extra suggestions...

while you have the head off, replace the headbolts w/ arp head studs. it will help the headgakset/cyl walls from walking under high boost loads.

if you plan to make 200whp do the t3/t4 60/48 they are like $460 brand new and you can find them cheaper on ebay. if you dont want to spend that much the 60/63 would work good also. but for god's sake, do a T3. ---- the dsm bullshit. T3 flanges bolt right up from a t3 42/48 all the way up to a 60/63 to a t3/t4 hybrid. the comptabilty is an obvious reason to make the right choice.

want your motor to last? alteast the noob i quote got one thing right, set yourself up with uberdata + a set of dsm 450cc and convert down to obd1 (if your obd2).

ssl2k

he wants to make 200whp, not 163.

draztik

agree with ssl2k!

i've ran my mini-me (a6/z6) for 3-4 months beat the **** outta it.. that mini-me is 9.9:1 CR... reading the plugs, they look brand new after 2 months of driving! higher compression only means more power up top.... and yes more accurate tuning needed, its all about tuning! my buddy was runnnig 10psi on a K20 with 11:1 CR perfectly fine.....

wdwalker

"y7 bottom end + y8 head = 9.6-9.8:1 compression, not this magical 10.5+ ----. "

i agree that setup would be closer to 10. if you're using the z6 head gasket.

"if you put any d15 block w/ a d16 head, you'll get around 9.8:1 to 10:1ish cr. Not anywhere near your 10.5:1."

maybe if you're using the compression calculator it would. in real life, the shop i go to has built a bunch and they said they always ended up higher than that.

"Since when does a d15b7 head flow better than a d16y8 head? "

d15b7 head is almost exactly like a d16a6 head, with wimpier cams. they both flow way better than a y8, and better than a z6. it'll net u more hp per psi boosted, but tradeoff is no vtec.

"Since when has adding a turbo increase the compression ratio of your motor?... "

u might be right, i haven't really thought about it but took it as a given. im only 18, and learnin new ---- every day. i'm not gonna stand up and preach that i'm the smartest ------- in the world, so somebody explain it to me. and no, i'm not afraid to be humble when i know i'm wrong, so theres no reason for you to stick it in my face.

"9.6-9.8:1 compression isn't ----. Said it before and will say it again. I know a guy that is running a mini-me d15z6 and running 10-14psi on a ------- FMU and it has been running perfectly fine for quite a while. "

i'll agree with u, just so long as you can keep it under 10 or so you'll be golden. sohc hondas are beasts on boost, and too many people sport the swap. for the price of a swap, u can turbo a single cam and do a good suspension setup and rape swappers.