http://www.ultimateresourceguides.co...-freemods.html
http://www.wabe.net/silum/howto.html#Tips

 

ok it works i bet it adds a good 10hp go for it im going out to my car to do it now

 

file down the trailing edge of the butterfly in your throttle body, and polish it.

 

i've had some friends using thorottle body spacers that are spiralled..(homemade ones of course) just like on carbed cars.. and they claim they work decently..this would be on an NA of course

 

Speaking of removing the power steering belt, could you not rig up an electric power steering unit? it does not take much effort to turn the power steering pump, i'm sure a small 12V electric motor with a switch would work great.

 

whoops i messed up guys... you need to cool your intake manifold with 200 degree water because without them it heats up too hot and will melt down... just like a nuclear reactor yO...

LMAO, aluminum conducts heat very well... so removing unneeded coolant lines to the intake manifold will make it run much cooler, and should give a power gain (small but it might be noticeable) the reason they are there is for emissions purposes to heat up the incoming air fuel charge and to prevent icing at the TB etc... (ie... nothing we care about).

Im really not sure if you could run the power steering off of a small motor... In my own testing running with the ps belt off (ps only) resulted in a 2 tenth improvement quite consistently, but can make you torque steer worse depending on how bad your traction issues already are...

 

he is talking about the weight of the PS and AC equipment. That includes all the lines, belts, compresor, pump, condensor, and some other parts. Not sure how many pounds it is, but the drag and weight reduction can't hurt ya.

 

ok so i've heard about the coolant line thing many times, but in the guide, the guy says you MAY need to block off your idle air control valve if you experience erratic idling. why is this? i want to do the free mod as i'm a cheapskate.... but i'm not touching my IAC valve.



does anyone like guy sebastian?

 

Some cars have a Fast Idle Thermostat Valve in the TB. It's a valve that lets in a little more air when the TB is cold to help the car warm up quicker. The rinky dink little washer inside can wear out and make the idle fluctuate. IIRC only OBD I Hondas have the separate FITV. OBD II cars let the ECU adjust the idle form the coolant temp sensor. Read your helms though; I may have it backwards.

The reason you dont see a big gain from just unhooking your coolant lines from the TB and IM is because of heatsoak from radiated heat in the engine bay and heat conducted to the IM from the cylinder head. Try wrapping the IM with heat reflective aluminum tape and installing a hondata im gasket. You can also make your own if you can find some high temp phenolic.

Wrap fuel lines in the engine bay with thermal wrap.

You can also cut away a lot of the trunklid and hood stiffeners. It's not a ton of weight but every little bit helps.

On an NA car use a new O2 sensor. I've noticed again in throttle response after replacing my 30,000 mile dirty one with a new Bosch one. I've heard the the Bosch ones are calibrated a little leaner. Thats why I say NA.

BTW, the new EP3 Civics use an electric power steering pump.

To anyone who thinks pumping 190-200 degree coolant through the TB makes your car faster, I've got an electric supercharger to sell you.

 

so I can convert to electronic power steering? I am wondering what type of belt I would use, THe motor would be a 1/4 horsepower 12V about the size of a wiper motor, I can make the bracket as well to link the 2 and I can make a pulley, but I was wondering if there is a small enough belt for my application.