Ravage70

have you read the post numb nuts?

Inquisition

Um, its not that complicated. Too much timing causes the coolant to pressurize more than normal. The extra pressure burst his house. Why do you think coolant poors back into the overfill when you have headlift? The pressure just pushes it out of the radiator. I'd bet a dollar that his issue is the head isnt totally flat and he is running too much ignition timing. But a coolant hose bursting is just because hes super duper hardcore.

accordepicenter

On those d series engines, if it doesnt backflow into the reservoir boiling and melting the ---- out of it, it probably isnt a headgasket or head lifting.

mahcivic

the last few times i blew the upper rad hose was because sleeves cracked, 20+ #s in the cooling system doesnt work to well,

SpankedYA!

Yeah! That was AWESOME!!!

hebijake

I'd say it's just a garbage hose. replace it and go. If your that worried then do a Comp. Test, that should be your first action after replacing the hose. On D-series if their Ignition timing is too advanced then they will blow coolant. I know because on my old Z6 turbo setup it pulled AWESOME but would then melt out the reservoir and puke everywhere after a nice Hard pull from too much timing.... just something to keep an eye on.

Tom-Guy

Well, on one hand I've had new upper radiator hoses split on me before, for no reason whatsoever, on a stock car. On the other hand... WOT, weren't you the guy in Engine Management who posted up those scary-*** ignition maps I said worried the hell out of me?

D16A6 have those -----*** paper headgaskets. If you have a problem pressurizing the cooling chamber, intermittant overheating, etc, go back with a $22 OEM Y8 headgasket.

W O T

Yes sir I was the one with the scary ignition map with the fucked readings. **** made me a map, I forget if he sent it to me, cars not running for a day, needs a new windshield

Im not using the stock a6 gasket, Ive got a y8 metal 3 layer

Tom-Guy

Sweet, because ****'s map had more timing than I liked, too.

Inquisition

Go outside and get the motor warm. Then do a comp test. See what kind of compression we are talking about. I did some ROUGH calculations making very general assumptions of the piston's dish and I came to the conclusion that you are probably running close to stock compression(roughly 9.2:1) due to the head milling. So any room to play with using the Vitara pistons is now gone, meaning at 10psi if you are running a degree over 18* you are nuts. Most likely you should be running closer to 16* at that pressure. These are numbers by OBD1 ROM editor standards. I cannot honestly say I know if TurboEdits values are dead nuts on or not. OBD1 has various timing corrections based on IAT and ECT amongst other things. Those corrections could be more or less sever with TurboEdit. Regardless, get an idea what your compression is. Retard the timing more. Make sure your head/block is flat. Get a good headgasket. Make sure the coolant system doesnt have air packets. If you do all of the above, and stop taking tuning advice from ****, you should be better than before.