d15b7 turbo burning oil
02-27-2011, 09:21 AM
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d15b7 turbo burning oil
So i cant seem to figure out this problem ive been having 
I got this 92 civic hatch with a t5 turbo in a trade so i know nothing bout what it has internally. Kid said it had upgraded rods and crank. But neways i get blueish/white smoke at idle ONLY when car is warmed up. When i come to any light and sit there for more than 10 seconds it will start smoking from the turbo itself and exhaust. Car does feel a bit more laggy than it used to. Turbo seals
I know its not valve seals because it doesnt smoke at initial start up. And i know its not rings cuz it doesnt smoke in boost or nothing. I replaced my stock pcv valve (waiting for my catch can) could this be the problem. My crankcase isnt venting Im getting my ecu rechipped and launch control today. Can anyone help me out. I heard you guys are the ppl to ask lol. Thanx in advance
I got this 92 civic hatch with a t5 turbo in a trade so i know nothing bout what it has internally. Kid said it had upgraded rods and crank. But neways i get blueish/white smoke at idle ONLY when car is warmed up. When i come to any light and sit there for more than 10 seconds it will start smoking from the turbo itself and exhaust. Car does feel a bit more laggy than it used to. Turbo seals I know its not valve seals because it doesnt smoke at initial start up. And i know its not rings cuz it doesnt smoke in boost or nothing. I replaced my stock pcv valve (waiting for my catch can) could this be the problem. My crankcase isnt venting Im getting my ecu rechipped and launch control today. Can anyone help me out. I heard you guys are the ppl to ask lol. Thanx in advance
02-27-2011, 04:34 PM
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Location: Elyria, OH
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Sounds like possibly the turbo but I would think it would smoke under boost too. Almost sounds like this kid wasn't sure on what he was selling you. Upgraded rods and crank but not pistons? And what's a T5 turbo? I would definatly look it over and figure out what all it has before you jump to conclusions. Possibly running rich at idle?
02-27-2011, 05:23 PM
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well i got my ecu chipped and the guy who was doing my basemap said that im running really rich in boost. I have 240cc injectors which might be a problem. And i guess the turbo is a t25 It came on a volvo t5 so what kind is it?? Car has a bunch of lag in lower rpms. Could it be because i have no axleback Lol
It came on a volvo t5 so what kind is it?? Car has a bunch of lag in lower rpms. Could it be because i have no axleback Lol
03-19-2011, 12:29 PM
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Anyways Heres a theory I came up with since theres really no test procedures for turbo seals in service manuals or anything ive ever noticed So ..Your symptoms are pretty spot on for turbo seals since the car will not smoke untill the turbo and exhast get hot enough to burn the coolant/oil
1. remove the turbo from the manifold and leave manifold bolted to cylinder head
assuming this is oil fed only turbo for instance
2. remove feed line, Then just plug the feed port with a bolt "this is the best route and if your using the oil pressure sender unit port use a fine thread bolt or oil press unit to block the port for the test unless yours is a hassle to get to if so you may recycle it back into the engine by sticking the feed line into the drain line to recurculate the oil
(DO NOT use a container! your car would run out of oil in a minute or so and dont drain back into the oil filler neck on valve cover while testing the turbo,My theory is just incase you have a positive crankcase pressure issue thats making the car smoke removing the cap could make the car smoke less,Possablly stop the smoking completeley giving you a false idea that the turbo seals are bad and would deminish the whole purpose of the test.
3. With oil feed line being blocked or re routed start up the car,If it doesnt smoke anymore the turbo seal are at fault.
4. invest in synthetic oils and a turbo timer in the future to prolong the life of your turbo so this doesnt happen for lets hope more then 20 years =]
If your car is oil and coolant fed block both feeds,Now this is just a theory I've never done this test but should work for testing turbo seals in theory
anyways if the turbo's fine I would do a cylinder leakage test just to be sure there no blown HG or that theres to much blow by the rings causing excessive crankcase pressure,If you have a vacuum guage hook it too the manifold vacuum line,If HG's of vacuum fluxuate its more the likley a valve guide seal,Also by taking a dollar bill and placing it behind the tail pipe it will actually try to suck it in the tail pipe when valve guides start going bad,This is because the leak past the valve on the intake stroke will cause suction,Good luck.
1. remove the turbo from the manifold and leave manifold bolted to cylinder head
assuming this is oil fed only turbo for instance
2. remove feed line, Then just plug the feed port with a bolt "this is the best route and if your using the oil pressure sender unit port use a fine thread bolt or oil press unit to block the port for the test unless yours is a hassle to get to if so you may recycle it back into the engine by sticking the feed line into the drain line to recurculate the oil
(DO NOT use a container! your car would run out of oil in a minute or so and dont drain back into the oil filler neck on valve cover while testing the turbo,My theory is just incase you have a positive crankcase pressure issue thats making the car smoke removing the cap could make the car smoke less,Possablly stop the smoking completeley giving you a false idea that the turbo seals are bad and would deminish the whole purpose of the test.
3. With oil feed line being blocked or re routed start up the car,If it doesnt smoke anymore the turbo seal are at fault.
4. invest in synthetic oils and a turbo timer in the future to prolong the life of your turbo so this doesnt happen for lets hope more then 20 years =]
If your car is oil and coolant fed block both feeds,Now this is just a theory I've never done this test but should work for testing turbo seals in theory
anyways if the turbo's fine I would do a cylinder leakage test just to be sure there no blown HG or that theres to much blow by the rings causing excessive crankcase pressure,If you have a vacuum guage hook it too the manifold vacuum line,If HG's of vacuum fluxuate its more the likley a valve guide seal,Also by taking a dollar bill and placing it behind the tail pipe it will actually try to suck it in the tail pipe when valve guides start going bad,This is because the leak past the valve on the intake stroke will cause suction,Good luck.
Last edited by spools; 03-19-2011 at 12:51 PM.
03-19-2011, 01:00 PM
#5
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Posts: 8
I didnt see your last post oopsy,Sounds like the very first step is to purchase a uego wideband and see what the o2 count looks like,Usually running rich will run black sooty smoke and leave this soot on the spark plugs but when its not a super rich condition it will look a little like oil burning,The thing is what fuel managment do you have?Do you have any type of FMU like a 6:1 or something or pressure regulator that works more like1:1 so you can lean it out?if you have a FMU just change your disk/spring combo down depending on wideband readings till your reading more like mid 11.5:1ish AFR,The thing is if your running rich your really more in the safe zone then any other scenerio so dont worry to much if thats the case.
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