qsiguy

I was a little concerned about it myself but it's working pretty flawlessly and it's really pretty simple.

Oil feeds from a filter sandwich plate up front. I took that to a "T" and put a pressure sender for the dash gauge there. Then I have a needle valve for pressure regulation on the feed line to the turbo. 1/4" tranny cooler line feeds to the back where I take it through a check valve to keep oil from draining or siphoning to or from the motor when the engine's off. A short run using stainless braided line from the check valve into the turbo. The drain comes out and up about 12" into the trunk into an oil scavenge pump which runs all the time the ignition is on. I also have a 30 second timer on the pump to run it after I shut off the car to drain the turbo of oil. From there it leads to the front through 3/8" tranny cooler line into the engine bay through modified glass fuel filter which I use for a sight glass so I know when/if oil is flowing through the turbo system. From the sight glass it drains back into the pass. side valve cover. Initially it drained back into the filler cap that was modified but it was a pain to change/add oil because you have to pull the hose to do it. You can see above where I now have a fitting the valve cover for the return line.

Sounds like a lot but it wasn't all that difficult and it's been working great so far. If you look back through this thread there are photos of everything.

qsiguy

Crap, had a rough drive home from work today. Been testing and setting my new MBC today and it was working pretty well, even ran at 9 psi for a bit :P and all was good. I had actually just turned down the MBC a bit trying to get back to 8 psi where I've been tuning to make sure everything was cool. Was at WOT/ full boost and got a strange pop noise, boost shot up to about 14-16 psi, the engine cut out, and obviously detonated, all very rapidly. Needless to say I was very bummed out. I pulled over and looked things over. While I was coming to a stop I could hear an odd clanking noise. Looking under the car I was thinking maybe I blew out my diff, driveshaft, or something like that because the engine was still running fine an smooth. Couldn't narrow it down. Looked at the turbo plumbing and I had blown off the BOV and wastegate hoses Looks like I need some better clamps if I'm going to run higher boost.

I limped home with my damaged pride and investigated my clank with the help of my son. Turns out I snapped a rear wheel stud and it was clanking around inside of the wheel lug cover. That same wheel already had one broken stud so I assume it couldn't handle the torque as well with only 4 lugs on it, now it's got three.

qsiguy

Here's a copy of that ECU address list for my car. It ended up a little small so I'll upload it from my office tomorrow so you can download it full size from my web site. Not sure you can even read any of this but here it is. I'll change the post to reflect the link to the full size one later.

http://www.c4caraudio.com/tech/force..._addresses.JPG

EDIT.....Fixed image so you can read it, follow the link. the values are not all what I'm using any more...

fe3tcourier

DE can be normal, or fixed vvt or maybe even variable vvt, VE is the honda licensed vtech clone stuff with two lobes.

Rexwagon

Arent you going to have a ton of turbo lag?

qsiguy

What that question directed at me? "going to" This systems been installed for almost 10 months. I have less lag than most of the turbo vehicle's I've been in. As long as you size the turbine corrected you will have no more lag than any other turbo setup. The turbine a/r will be much smaller for a rear mount, mine is .68 and I could go a bit smaller and this thing would spool extremely fast. You do have to let the turbo warm up before it will make full boost but that doesn't take long. I suspect it's the same for all turbo installs but of course a front mount will heat up faster.

seerex

Damn sucks about the wheel stud, I thought the trans had gone on you for a sec. BTW what size piping are you runing from turbo to tb, I know you put it up some where, but I didn't see it.

qsiguy

2.5" until under the front fender, then to 3.5" into the MAF and 3.5" into the TB. Ya it does suck but I'm taking this opportunity to finish a bunch of other things I've been putting off. Since it will be up on the jacks again I'm going to put on my lowering springs and Tokico shocks, new wheel studs of course, 4.08 rear diff, steering boots, rear sway bar, adjustable front tension rods, trans cooler, and if I can sneak it past the wife an FMIC I told her the other day that "my intercooler is broken, I need a new one, ROFL

Oh....and an overboost protection circuit

seerex

Just a idea, if you had less then 2.5 pipe going up front; say what ever the cold side exit on the turbo it self going all the way up front wouldn't it help with lag? Also if the piping is made out of aluminum wont it also act like a intercooler in a way?

qsiguy

It's only 3.5" for about 20" or so. The MAF is that diameter so I wanted it to be that diameter for a bit before that to match the velocity and keep turbulence down. I'm sure my intake temps aren't really bad and most rear mounts don't use them at lower boost, <7-8 psi, but I'm running 8 and trying to get a little more. Plus ambient temps here are very high through the summer. I need all the help I can get, plus if it gives me another 20-30 hp or more then I'm all over that! I NEED MORE POWER!