cardinal811

I have everything for the car to run, fuel, spark, and fresh air. Car starts but craps out after 30 sec, and if I place my hand over the TB I have very lil vac. YES THIS IS A REPOST of sort but I cant find the original. I had fuel in the runners, thought injectors were staying on. But I pulled the rail with the injector still conncected and turned over the car and they fired all at the same time for one cycle then they rotated like they should, so I know its not the injectors. Timing, question, if the #1 and #4 are top dead center and cam gears are skunk2 and they are facing straight up with the big dot, is this in sync for timing? I think its right. Motor is a Sleeved H22A JDM closed Block 9:1 compr Ross Racing piston motor with eagle rods and o.e. crank ,HASport harness, Type S cams, skunk2 stage 2 valvetrain, Crane cams ingniton box, and MSD cap and coil. I have spark to the plugs cause I shocked the hell out of my friend, then checked the right way with plugs on all 4 cylinders. I NEED A MIRACLE. Also before the motor was built it was a STOCK 10.6:1 compression and it ran fine. Best time was 14.11 on street tires 205-40-17

#1NISMO

180* off at the dizzy? thats fucked me in the past

cardinal811

I tried that and the cams wont allow me to put in on 180' off. It only lets me put it on one way. Unless Ilm not using enought force

cardinal811

Anyone else have idea's. I have not done a valve adjustment yet just made sure the nut is tight. I was told to heat the motor up for 3 cycles retorque the arp head bolts and then do a valve adjustment. Also whas if this wrong whats the correct procedure to do the valve adjustment on a h22a. Tolerences are .07 intake and .08 exhaust. Do you put he feeler gauge between the cam and the rocker or between the rocker tip and the retainer. Pictures would help also.

Tough-guy

^^^Yeah, take it to a mechanic and post ****. Then ------- DIE

cardinal811

I'd love to take it to a mechanic but the mother cracker DONT RUN. Also I dont have a trailer to tow it. I turned the crank by hand with the valvecover off and according to the mechanics of it everything is fine. Intake open on stroke down, no cams pushing against the rockers on way up, stokes down, exhaust valves open, then strokes up. Now if the dizzy is somehow off 180' will it send signal to the ecu to close the contact ground to fire an injector if the valve is closed. I think the injectors are firing when the valves are closed. But when I put the dizzy on,,,,it only let me put it on one way. Any H series gurus in here.

Zeniceguycrx

your talking about you cams but didnt say anything about the crank, set your crank from the crank pully first. It cant be wrong. then set your cams but if it runs then dies I doubt it timing.

put a fuel preasure gauge on the rail and check you priming pressure(key on off on of...take a reading)
then fire up the ar and watch the gauge to see if you lose preasure

come back if thats good

cardinal811

Well I have a walbro 255lph that I installed for 3 months before pulling motor. I have a new filter and going to buy a new FPR from honda tomorrow. I have the crank set to TDC on 1 & 4 and BTC on 2 & 3, I put the cam in set to TDC, so the only way it can be out of timing is by the dizzy? But the Nig only lets me put it on one way so I cant be 180* off I think. I appreciate your help guys. Please keep it coming I'm trying all your ideas just have to find the time since its back to going to work till next sat 12hr shifts suck THANKS Toyota

cardinal811

Also when it runs sometime I can hold the throttle wide open and the motor doesnt react acts like the throttle is closed. I put my hand over it and has very little vac. This motor has total seal rings and ross pistons with ferrea stainless valves. So I know they have not went bad. And I turned over the motor several times to buildoil pressure with the injector harness unplugged on initial start. It ran like crap at idle and I gave it gas and it reved to 4 grand and back down and thought all was well then it died, this was over prolly 25 sec's.

StanB

I think you have some very tight valves. You need to adjust them, and you don't have to heat the motor before you do it. The feeler gauge should be placed between the rocker tip, and the cam lobe. The valves should be adjusted in the firing order, i.e 1-3-4-2. I'll suggest you buy a workshop manual at Auto Zone or another auto supply store.

Good luck.