cardinal811

I care less about what the bike's settings are, I'm asking because someone mentioned that yes the marks can and will line up but still be off by a tooth is the block and head have been milled. I think it's false but ajusting the cams to find out wont hurt as long as they do not hit. This is my first actual tear down and rebuild from pieces, so I'm sure I'm not the only one that has endoured this learning experience. You Tough Guy act like you knew it all once you left your dads sack.

cardinal811

Well I got the car to run, but now it's got a knock/piston slap/ valves hitting the piston TYPE OF SOUND. Intake was retarded one tooth and the exhaust I believe is ok. But when I started the car for the first time I had the SOUND, so I think either I'm still off and the exhaust valves are tapping the pistons"bent valves now" or the sound I'm hearing is piston slap.

Slo_crx1

Does the car idle fine now? If you have forged pistons in your motor they will make a knocking sound until they warm up, almost like a diesel motor. 1 tooth off usually isn't enough to contact and bend valves unless it's a very high c/r motor.

Zeniceguycrx

check oil

cardinal811

it's 9:1 compression with forged ross 88mm pistons, I have oil, and I'm scared now that it's got bent valves but I'm going to do a compression test after I get to borrow my buddies tomorrow. What should the psi read 140 like most honda's or will be be less cause of the extra room that was put into the bore for boost.

Slo_crx1

It honestly depends on the motor as to where your compression will sit. Like I said, forged pistons knock when cold. Let the motor warm up and see if it goes away.

cardinal811

Your right again. The knock went away and I was able to just let her purr for like 30 min at an idle of 800rpm. The fan kicked on and off like 15 times which made my *** a happy ****** ******. I only have 2 coolant leaks, one at the cabin inlet line at the rear of the head, and the other on the outlet of the coolant tube under the intake manifold. CAM settings are as follows. INTAKE 4 degrees advance and exhaust 2 degrees retard. I'm sure there is error there and I'm going to leave it that way till I get it to a dyno and get the "I know you guys are against it" the Hondata S300 tuned. At idle it ran 13.8:1 A/F on the PLX M300 wideband. If I gave it gas it wanted to die at a lean of 15.9:1. But this was with the O.E. P13 computer. So again guys thanks and I cant wait to get it tuned on the dyno at a n/a of 9:1 and save that map and then bolt on the T4v tune it on a dyno later after break in. I was told to drive in town for 500 miles and give it a run for it's money to help seat the rings by my engine builder. Is this correct? Whats everyones take on how they break in a forged motor. Also how do I shrink pictures so they can be posted. Everyone of mine want to take up the whole monitor.

Slo_crx1

I usually beat the **** out of my motors to break them in...usually the first 50 miles or so consists of pulls up to 3rd gear around 5-6k and then letting the motor decel on it's own. Just use some cheapo oil for the break in, and would probably be good to get a magnetic drain pan bolt. Change the oil after the first 100 miles, and then refill with whatever non-synthetic oil you want after that. Even then I only go about 500 miles and change it again, probably overkill though.

As for pics, use something like photobucket...they automaticly resize when you upload them.

cardinal811

I have two drain plugs that are magnetic in my pan. And for the oil change tip THANKS. Loaded a P28 fuel and ingnition map and started the car, had a lean mix of 15.3 average and I got it to a 14.1 at a consistant idle of 900rpm and I'm not driving it till I get it on a dyno or get someone that has a better map for a H22A n/a 9:1 compression for a break in, HONDATA S300. Till then it sits and awaits a tuning session after my broke *** get some cash saved up. AGAIN THANKS GUYS/GIRLs.