cardinal811

Iunderstand what you say about tight valves, I have brass valve guides and my machinist said he had to bore the ID to get the ferrera valves to clear in them, but are you talking about tight as is they are not opening all the way or not enough when they are opened by the cam? ---- I'm about over this damb car, I either break axles which are stage 3 driveshaftshops or I cant get the POS to run. It's not the motors fault and the HONDATA S300 throws codes like mad crazy cause the upset of the motor but also the stock P13 runs the engine same way when the runner is cleaned out after the fuel starts to river up in them. Who lives close to Seymour Indiana which is 30 miles north of Lousiville and 55 miles south of Indianapolice that can help me. I have all the tools and hell I'll even go out of my way to pick you up or pay for your gas and dinner. I"M DESPERATE

cardinal811

Here is the link to the Hondata forum that I was able to post pictures of the intake and cylinder after trying to start along with the spark plugs. They are huge pictures but I dont know how to shrink all my pictures to post here http://hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5766

StanB

Yes.

cardinal811

Thanks Zeniceguy at msn I'm here all night from 30 am till 30pm I work 12hrs shifts so please be patient and helpful

cardinal811

Also I'm not coming up with these excuses, I'm really havin issues with the car, so please dont blow this off. If you have knowledge please share it. I am trying every angle to get this car to run.Help me out

Slo_crx1

My buddy had the same issue with his b17 gsr motor after it came back from the machine shop. Turned out that had one of the cams a tooth off and it ran like ----, wouldn't idle unless you held the throttle open a bit. Reset the timing belt properly, checked the valve lash and now she screams. If you did the belt yourself, check it again...dohc's have a tendency to move a tooth when you take out the slack. Not to mention if your block/head was milled/resurfaced your cam timing will be slightly off as well due to a different combined deck/head height.

cardinal811

Yeah the head was decked a bit to make sure everything is flat and the head was also milled for flatness. So even though the cams are set TDC and the crank was also and even after I move the crank by hand and they all face TDC my cam to crank timing can be off from the milling. I'll take pics but when I post them they are huge as ----, and I'm on my laptop since my motherboard on my desktop took a ---- alos on me. What more can a white brotha ask for from god. Thanks

cardinal811

CAMs? If the fuel is back flowing into the intake manifold do I advance the intake cam? Then what about the exhaust cam, do I retard it to make sure they dont hit eachother or advance it also? I never messed with the cams adjustment when it was a factory motor just left it be until I did this build so thats why I'm ignorant to the adjustment. It makes sense to advance one and retard the other but I am a lil and just wanting to know emoticons are cool and yes I overdo it sometimes

Tough-guy

You really shouldn't be working on engines. The idea is to reatard the inlet and advance the exhaust to reduce the overlap time. N/A bikes run about 25 degrees overlap. Most turbo cars run about 6-8 degrees of overlap to combat reversion.

Slo_crx1

Actually I've found that overlap on a turbo setup with log-style or short runner manifolds adds power by aiding in scavenging and will also help a smaller sized turbo last longer into the higher rpm's. Results vary with motors and setups though, this is my personal experience on my b16.

Also don't be confused with the crank timing marks on the pulley, if that's what you're going by. The 3 marks grouped together are for timing use only, and refer to btdc...the single mark by itself is the one you want to shoot for for setting cyl.1 at tdc.