power steering delete
05-24-2008, 08:23 PM
#11
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Re: power steering delete
Originally Posted by rudebwoy
I searched for 4 hours, and found a lot of threads over at H-T and you will be surprized of how complicated and difficult they made this job look. I started looking at pics and noticed that all I need to do is remove the factory lines, and cut the main hard line short enough to fit a rubber hose over it,T those 2 lines together, and run the 3rd end of the T to a brake reservior which I bought from ebay for $7 that came off of a motorcycle remove the cooler loop and loop the lines into each other. got all the lines in the garage, so all I will spend for this conversion is $13.50 including SH for reservoir.
will do a detailed writeup if requested after I finish.
will do a detailed writeup if requested after I finish.
You no the sane Hondatech has NO techs :P.
05-24-2008, 08:28 PM
#12
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 0
Re: power steering delete
Originally Posted by rudebwoy
I searched for 4 hours, and found a lot of threads over at H-T and you will be surprized of how complicated and difficult they made this job look. I started looking at pics and noticed that all I need to do is remove the factory lines, and cut the main hard line short enough to fit a rubber hose over it,T those 2 lines together, and run the 3rd end of the T to a brake reservior which I bought from ebay for $7 that came off of a motorcycle remove the cooler loop and loop the lines into each other. got all the lines in the garage, so all I will spend for this conversion is $13.50 including SH for reservoir.
will do a detailed writeup if requested after I finish.
will do a detailed writeup if requested after I finish.
05-26-2008, 06:17 AM
#14
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,217
Re: power steering delete
I know stealthmode has great deals, but I don't have to, I spent $13 for this setup I am putting together, plus steve's kit is for the bling bling type. it will be hidden so ain't no need for bling 
06-10-2008, 08:29 PM
#15
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,588
Re: power steering delete
I spent even less and have no power steering in my DA teg. Not sure if your rack is the same as mine but I'll give you a brief overview of what I did, take it or leave it.
Basically there is a 4-way vavle bolted to the bottom of the rack, it has an input pin from the steering column to cycle the valve left or right, inputs from the ps pump, two ports to the speed sensor on the tranny, and two ports to either side of the power piston inside the rack. I unbolted this entire assembly.
Underniethe there was only the two ports to either side of the power piston and a long *** pin sticking out from the steering column. This pin moved slightly to the right or left depending on what direction the wheel was turned. It is now useless so I cut it off.
Here is the rack with the valve assembly removed. You can see the two ports on the left, and the pin on the right.
the ports to the power piston go to either side of the piston, turn the wheel and air will come out of one port and suck in the other. I dremeled a small groove to connect the two ports.
Then I bolted a small aluminum plate I shaped with a sawsall over both ports and the open end of the steering column. I added jsut a small bead of rtv around the rim for good measure. I've been rocking it for a couple weeks now with no problems what so ever.
Here is the valve assembly removed and an outline of the area needed to seal scribed into a random scrap piece of aluminum.
Sawsall action
RTVage, you can really see the groove I dremeled between the two ports.
Done reusing original bolts.
My only thing I was wondering while doing this is if I should fill both ports to the power piston with fluid so it is lubricated and has some resistance to me turning by forcing the fluid back and forth as I turn. I may experiment wiht it later and report back.
The reason I did this was I had the car on the lift to change my clutch, and Yuriy had already done the rip out the lines and loop em. ---- never stayed on and was always leaking fluid all over the place. It irritated me so I was going to swap to a manual rack. I read the CRX rack would bolt in but had a worse ratio and required more turns. I decided to say ---- it I'll make this one work and stop searching for other people arguing over what works.
Basically there is a 4-way vavle bolted to the bottom of the rack, it has an input pin from the steering column to cycle the valve left or right, inputs from the ps pump, two ports to the speed sensor on the tranny, and two ports to either side of the power piston inside the rack. I unbolted this entire assembly.
Underniethe there was only the two ports to either side of the power piston and a long *** pin sticking out from the steering column. This pin moved slightly to the right or left depending on what direction the wheel was turned. It is now useless so I cut it off.
Here is the rack with the valve assembly removed. You can see the two ports on the left, and the pin on the right.
the ports to the power piston go to either side of the piston, turn the wheel and air will come out of one port and suck in the other. I dremeled a small groove to connect the two ports.
Then I bolted a small aluminum plate I shaped with a sawsall over both ports and the open end of the steering column. I added jsut a small bead of rtv around the rim for good measure. I've been rocking it for a couple weeks now with no problems what so ever.
Here is the valve assembly removed and an outline of the area needed to seal scribed into a random scrap piece of aluminum.
Sawsall action
RTVage, you can really see the groove I dremeled between the two ports.
Done reusing original bolts.
My only thing I was wondering while doing this is if I should fill both ports to the power piston with fluid so it is lubricated and has some resistance to me turning by forcing the fluid back and forth as I turn. I may experiment wiht it later and report back.
The reason I did this was I had the car on the lift to change my clutch, and Yuriy had already done the rip out the lines and loop em. ---- never stayed on and was always leaking fluid all over the place. It irritated me so I was going to swap to a manual rack. I read the CRX rack would bolt in but had a worse ratio and required more turns. I decided to say ---- it I'll make this one work and stop searching for other people arguing over what works.
06-11-2008, 12:41 AM
#16
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,147
Re: power steering delete
that looks like too much work
cut off wheel, rubber hose, rubber plug, 3 small hose clamps and lots of sparks/smoke lucky the stuffs not flammable
as for the manual rack my buddy had one in his delsol, yes mine is harder to park but i have better response/feedback and handling (at speed) at least i think
cut off wheel, rubber hose, rubber plug, 3 small hose clamps and lots of sparks/smoke lucky the stuffs not flammable
as for the manual rack my buddy had one in his delsol, yes mine is harder to park but i have better response/feedback and handling (at speed) at least i think
06-11-2008, 01:38 AM
#17
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,785
Re: power steering delete
It seperates the men from the stoolpushers. I always just hacked the lines and drove around pumped that ---- out. Same for the AC. Hack lines and ripped everything attached to it. After that the engine bay looks like completely empty and is a breeze to work on. Not to mention looks cleaner too.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
