mobil1 syn and a fram filter
08-25-2008, 02:54 PM
#21
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,330
Re: mobil1 syn and a fram filter
Originally Posted by wafflesincars
Well after the 928 pile of fail I suppose they felt the need to make up for it.
Originally Posted by TOM
Did you break in the cam properly
which cams you resurface the rockers before the new cam?
Alot of cam manufactures recommend shell rotella T for break in on the cams on due to the fact that it has zinc in it. I've always used it for cam break in and never had an issues. Crane says that they won't even warranty a cam if rotella t isn't used for break in. The fact that it didn't happen again it after you switched was prolly due to the fact that the cam was already broken in.
I highly doubt it had anything due to the mobil 1, porsche is the most ---- manufacture in the world, they wouldn't use it if it sucked. ----, they built a rotating engine dyno to simulate the oil splashing around in the engine like on the 'ring.
which cams you resurface the rockers before the new cam? Alot of cam manufactures recommend shell rotella T for break in on the cams on due to the fact that it has zinc in it. I've always used it for cam break in and never had an issues. Crane says that they won't even warranty a cam if rotella t isn't used for break in. The fact that it didn't happen again it after you switched was prolly due to the fact that the cam was already broken in.
I highly doubt it had anything due to the mobil 1, porsche is the most ---- manufacture in the world, they wouldn't use it if it sucked. ----, they built a rotating engine dyno to simulate the oil splashing around in the engine like on the 'ring.
ALL oils contain some level of zinc. RotellaT just happens to have a decent content level.
Every engine is different and its likely that the clearances and tolerances of a modern porsche do not coincide with those of Spiker's H22. I also cant help but think that supertech cryo-treats their valvesprings, which may have had something to do with his issue. We really cant be sure now.
Back on topic, Ive been looking but cant find a decent true unbiased test of these motor oils. Pressure-resistance needs to be measured at engine operating temp. Most motor oils dont work effectively until they reach 150+ degrees farenheit.
08-25-2008, 02:56 PM
#22
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,631
Re: mobil1 syn and a fram filter
Originally Posted by TOM
Did you break in the cam properly which cams you resurface the rockers before the new cam?
Alot of cam manufactures recommend shell rotella T for break in on the cams on due to the fact that it has zinc in it. I've always used it for cam break in and never had an issues. Crane says that they won't even warranty a cam if rotella t isn't used for break in. The fact that it didn't happen again it after you switched was prolly due to the fact that the cam was already broken in.
I highly doubt it had anything due to the mobil 1, porsche is the most ---- manufacture in the world, they wouldn't use it if it sucked. ----, they built a rotating engine dyno to simulate the oil splashing around in the engine like on the 'ring.
which cams you resurface the rockers before the new cam? Alot of cam manufactures recommend shell rotella T for break in on the cams on due to the fact that it has zinc in it. I've always used it for cam break in and never had an issues. Crane says that they won't even warranty a cam if rotella t isn't used for break in. The fact that it didn't happen again it after you switched was prolly due to the fact that the cam was already broken in.
I highly doubt it had anything due to the mobil 1, porsche is the most ---- manufacture in the world, they wouldn't use it if it sucked. ----, they built a rotating engine dyno to simulate the oil splashing around in the engine like on the 'ring.
I dont give a ---- what Porsche puts in their shitboxes, Mobil 1 didnt work (others have had the same issues with it and STIFF valvetrain) - and You dont resurface the cam followers in my opinion... Actually, theres NO NEED IF you have an oil that works..... Thats a fact.
It cost me a set of cams and exhaust followers... Breakin isnt applicable to used cams ... Lets just put it this way, The motor was ALL done correctly... lubed excessivily, and Im super ---- about ALL aspects of the car. As the car made over 620WHP for a good long time (over 10k miles before coming apart to check the pump failure repercussions) beaten all day everyday, Id say We did something right.... Even after seeing 12k on a misshift, breaking the pump and STILL beating on it it looked mint inside.
Engine was broken in and driven on organic oil for about 400 miles, changed then swithched to Mobile 1... Less than 400 mile later I noticved Vtec issues (as in almost a lack of it), as well as ticking, checked the valves.... They were fine... Followers were destroyed
Seeing as you havent been here long, and that I dont expect people to give a ---- about my build..... Lets just say this... I did a fuckload of research on proprietary synthetic additive packages (other than the Zinc dithiophosphate that is OBVIOUSLY a bennefit mineral). There are about two pages of discussion in my build hread about the issues, and Ive found multiple tests that DOCUMENT that Mobile 1 is FAR from the best you can get... EVEN FOR THE MONEY.
The statistics and numbers dont lie... I AM FAR FROM THE ONLY ONE WHOM HAS THE OPINION THAT OIL IS NOTHING MORE THAN A HT bandwagon. Well, I guess it could be a P car bandwagon too, but, as I have yet to be beat by a Porsche.... Im not much interested in what they use..... Its a Honda, not a Porsche....
Bottom line is this:
Since swithching to Royal Purple I have not had 1 friction related issue AT ALL... RP 1, Mobile 1 0.
And like I said, Im not the only one whos putting this out there
For a buck more a quart... Im sold, actually... Since a number of people uphere have SEEN what it did for my car, theyve all switched... SOme from mobile, Joshes dad runs it now instead of Bardahl, and a couple others from Redline....
Guess how many issues
0
Originally Posted by Hitchhikkr
I am always the first person to concede my opinion in the face of empirical evidence.
However, that being said, the oil test described in your link has some serious flaws.
1. All the tests were perfomed at room temperture, or a temp. not disclosed to us. Any multi-viscosity oil is going to react differently at different temperatures. That is the purpose of a multi-viscosity oil.
2. Mobil one is a 0w-40 weight, meaning its ------- thin at low temperatures, and is a 40 weight at operating temp. The royal purple tested, racing 51, is clearly stated to be the equal to a 20w-50 oil.
3. It is unclear if the opinion is biased or not. Since the test is flawed, it may be. But then again, we didnt see the test performed, and we dont know who they work for/why they did it. They easily spent $1000+ just to do this test, I dont know about you, but I dont have that cash laying around. Somebody paid for them to do this test. We dont know who.
Im not arguing with you Brian, just want a clearer view of the issue. I personally wouldnt mind a better oil, if its within my price range. I get Mobil 1 FREE. If there is a significantly better oil out there thats worth the cash, I would be convinced.
However, that being said, the oil test described in your link has some serious flaws.
1. All the tests were perfomed at room temperture, or a temp. not disclosed to us. Any multi-viscosity oil is going to react differently at different temperatures. That is the purpose of a multi-viscosity oil.
2. Mobil one is a 0w-40 weight, meaning its ------- thin at low temperatures, and is a 40 weight at operating temp. The royal purple tested, racing 51, is clearly stated to be the equal to a 20w-50 oil.
3. It is unclear if the opinion is biased or not. Since the test is flawed, it may be. But then again, we didnt see the test performed, and we dont know who they work for/why they did it. They easily spent $1000+ just to do this test, I dont know about you, but I dont have that cash laying around. Somebody paid for them to do this test. We dont know who.
Im not arguing with you Brian, just want a clearer view of the issue. I personally wouldnt mind a better oil, if its within my price range. I get Mobil 1 FREE. If there is a significantly better oil out there thats worth the cash, I would be convinced.
Im not trying to start a bandwagon... But the inside of my motor is RETARDED clean, and I havent had that fucked up issue again since I changed.... Thats enough evidence and proof fror me... I use good Oil filters as well, and change my oil at 1500 Mile interavals. There is NO reason my ---- should have failed with the Mobile 1... It did. I did something about it and have not had 1 Iota of a hint of an issue suince. Money well spent in my book
Dig?
LOL
08-25-2008, 03:47 PM
#27
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 0
Re: mobil1 syn and a fram filter
Originally Posted by bigdaddyvtec
Youre a sheep in wolfs clothing *****, thats why. 
THERE WAS NO GENERAL TSO'S niggar
nOW SHUT IT 'fOR I PUT IT IN YOUR MOM'S COOTER, ANUS, AND EVERY OTHER ORAPHACE SHES GOT
BALLIN'~!!!
08-25-2008, 04:13 PM
#30
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 56
Re: mobil1 syn and a fram filter
Originally Posted by bigdaddyvtec
How about this:
I dont give a ---- what Porsche puts in their shitboxes, Mobil 1 didnt work (others have had the same issues with it and STIFF valvetrain) - and You dont resurface the cam followers in my opinion... Actually, theres NO NEED IF you have an oil that works..... Thats a fact.
It cost me a set of cams and exhaust followers... Breakin isnt applicable to used cams ... Lets just put it this way, The motor was ALL done correctly... lubed excessivily, and Im super ---- about ALL aspects of the car. As the car made over 620WHP for a good long time (over 10k miles before coming apart to check the pump failure repercussions) beaten all day everyday, Id say We did something right.... Even after seeing 12k on a misshift, breaking the pump and STILL beating on it it looked mint inside.
Engine was broken in and driven on organic oil for about 400 miles, changed then swithched to Mobile 1... Less than 400 mile later I noticved Vtec issues (as in almost a lack of it), as well as ticking, checked the valves.... They were fine... Followers were destroyed
Seeing as you havent been here long, and that I dont expect people to give a ---- about my build..... Lets just say this... I did a fuckload of research on proprietary synthetic additive packages (other than the Zinc dithiophosphate that is OBVIOUSLY a bennefit mineral). There are about two pages of discussion in my build hread about the issues, and Ive found multiple tests that DOCUMENT that Mobile 1 is FAR from the best you can get... EVEN FOR THE MONEY.
The statistics and numbers dont lie... I AM FAR FROM THE ONLY ONE WHOM HAS THE OPINION THAT OIL IS NOTHING MORE THAN A HT bandwagon. Well, I guess it could be a P car bandwagon too, but, as I have yet to be beat by a Porsche.... Im not much interested in what they use..... Its a Honda, not a Porsche....
Bottom line is this:
Since swithching to Royal Purple I have not had 1 friction related issue AT ALL... RP 1, Mobile 1 0.
And like I said, Im not the only one whos putting this out there
For a buck more a quart... Im sold, actually... Since a number of people uphere have SEEN what it did for my car, theyve all switched... SOme from mobile, Joshes dad runs it now instead of Bardahl, and a couple others from Redline....
Guess how many issues
0
I dont give a ---- what Porsche puts in their shitboxes, Mobil 1 didnt work (others have had the same issues with it and STIFF valvetrain) - and You dont resurface the cam followers in my opinion... Actually, theres NO NEED IF you have an oil that works..... Thats a fact.
It cost me a set of cams and exhaust followers... Breakin isnt applicable to used cams ... Lets just put it this way, The motor was ALL done correctly... lubed excessivily, and Im super ---- about ALL aspects of the car. As the car made over 620WHP for a good long time (over 10k miles before coming apart to check the pump failure repercussions) beaten all day everyday, Id say We did something right.... Even after seeing 12k on a misshift, breaking the pump and STILL beating on it it looked mint inside.
Engine was broken in and driven on organic oil for about 400 miles, changed then swithched to Mobile 1... Less than 400 mile later I noticved Vtec issues (as in almost a lack of it), as well as ticking, checked the valves.... They were fine... Followers were destroyed
Seeing as you havent been here long, and that I dont expect people to give a ---- about my build..... Lets just say this... I did a fuckload of research on proprietary synthetic additive packages (other than the Zinc dithiophosphate that is OBVIOUSLY a bennefit mineral). There are about two pages of discussion in my build hread about the issues, and Ive found multiple tests that DOCUMENT that Mobile 1 is FAR from the best you can get... EVEN FOR THE MONEY.
The statistics and numbers dont lie... I AM FAR FROM THE ONLY ONE WHOM HAS THE OPINION THAT OIL IS NOTHING MORE THAN A HT bandwagon. Well, I guess it could be a P car bandwagon too, but, as I have yet to be beat by a Porsche.... Im not much interested in what they use..... Its a Honda, not a Porsche....
Bottom line is this:
Since swithching to Royal Purple I have not had 1 friction related issue AT ALL... RP 1, Mobile 1 0.
And like I said, Im not the only one whos putting this out there
For a buck more a quart... Im sold, actually... Since a number of people uphere have SEEN what it did for my car, theyve all switched... SOme from mobile, Joshes dad runs it now instead of Bardahl, and a couple others from Redline....
Guess how many issues
0
Walkout side, take off yor pantys and shake the sand out of them.
I've seen a bunch of engines blow up running mobil 1syn. Guy we know works at MB, grabs the ---- from his works, we had a bunch of rotary guys run it, and blew their ---- up within a few passes. They all said it sucked, blew their engine, blah blah, blah. Wasn't the oils fault, it was their own damn fault, ---- was way to thin for how their engines were setup. Seems that you did your research, checked out everything blah blah blah. But more than likely it was an issue with what weight oil you chose. Blame the oil, go ahead if it makes you feel better thinking the oil was the issue. Its easy to blame a bottle.
