ls/vtec question
3.0 BAR
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,664
From: NE-PA
Re: ls/vtec question
Originally Posted by punkracer
the only reason for your buddie cutting vavle relief is cause of the valves will hit the pistions..
for a real good LS/vtec site and building guied
best one:
How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide. http://b20vtec.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56400
Mild NA LS/Vtec Build http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1118097
both are very good build..
ps upgrade to ARP rod studs at the lease
wrong...19t or 19 teeth are on LS water pumps... ive counted the five i have
VTEC b water pumps 22t non vtec 19t use the timming belt that goes with your waterpump
for a real good LS/vtec site and building guied
best one:
How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide. http://b20vtec.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56400
Mild NA LS/Vtec Build http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1118097
both are very good build..
ps upgrade to ARP rod studs at the lease
wrong...19t or 19 teeth are on LS water pumps... ive counted the five i have
VTEC b water pumps 22t non vtec 19t use the timming belt that goes with your waterpump
Werd on the ARP rod bolts. For $45 or so it's worth the extra insurance. And for a bump up in oil pressure, stick a spacer on top of the spring in the oil pumps's pressure relief valve. Oil pump itself from b18b's should be the same as gsr and b16 pumps from 94+ with the exception of a lower spring rate on the release valve.
0.5 BAR
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
Re: ls/vtec question
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
Haha...you're right on the pump...just went and looked at the LS pump I have and it was double stamped (thought it said 18t)...counted them and it's 19...------' cheapo rebuilds :P
Werd on the ARP rod bolts. For $45 or so it's worth the extra insurance. And for a bump up in oil pressure, stick a spacer on top of the spring in the oil pumps's pressure relief valve. Oil pump itself from b18b's should be the same as gsr and b16 pumps from 94+ with the exception of a lower spring rate on the release valve.
Werd on the ARP rod bolts. For $45 or so it's worth the extra insurance. And for a bump up in oil pressure, stick a spacer on top of the spring in the oil pumps's pressure relief valve. Oil pump itself from b18b's should be the same as gsr and b16 pumps from 94+ with the exception of a lower spring rate on the release valve.
3.0 BAR
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,664
From: NE-PA
Re: ls/vtec question
It was a trick I found off Endyn's old website years ago. I'm looking over the site again right now, but I can't seem to find it. Pretty much it just entails removing the allen-key plug from the bottom of the oil pump and adding a spacer of some sort (i.e. a washer) to put more pressure on the release spring.
0.5 BAR
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
0.5 BAR
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
Re: ls/vtec question
Originally Posted by lance_ecl
What about using a ITR oil pump? And I had some one tell me to use a ITR vtec solenoid?
as for the solenoid. there the same....this is just a classic cause its a type r its better.
the type r is a well made engine balanced and blueprinted from the factory......
as for the lsvtec if you were to spend the lil extra when assembling it would be just as good as a type r, or in some eyes better...i put my lsvtec together stock everything lsbottom end 99si head on...and stomped my buddies type r all daY...
in the world of motor choise alot of people do diffrent things:
-PoorMans type r (gsr bottom end, B16 head)
-LS/vtec and B20/vtec
-sleeper LS/VTec (ls crank and rods in a GSR)
-Semi stock stroker b16 ( ls rods and crank w/ custom pistions with a higher wrist pin location)
-high compression LS (Pr3, p30, p72, PCT pistions)
Note: these are just some combos and all have the + and - to each...two key thing will seperate any engine combo from the other, THE BUILDER and THE TUNER...
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