1991civicsi

This is pobably not what you want to hear but, being that you have changed so many components of the engine the best way would be to check all of the basics.
1) 12V power source, negative ground
2) All connections are secure, no sensors are broken or detatched
3) ECU is operative (possibly swap with a known working one)
4) Distributor is operational (spark emitting from plugs)
5) Fuel is being supplied
6) Injectors working properly
7) Engine is indexed properly

Turblow

My battery is mint, brand new fully charged

Battery was grounded in 2 spots with 4 gauge wire, valve cover ground upgraded to 4ga, thermo ground is tight and clean

The only connection I didnt make is one plugs that connects to the back of the stock a6 intake mani on the far back right side (not iacv/tps) I dunno if its needed

I dont know if the ecu chip is backwards or not, only seems like itll go one way but i dont remember changing it and im sure xenocron got it right

My timing was done by the mark on the timing cover, so I think its dead fine

I dont know how to check for fuel or compression though, I have an old compression tester, dunno if it works or not though

Turblow

HERES THE VIDEO

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...F121CCE909.htm

Turblow

Well I just dicked around for a while on the car, first thing I did was listen for the fuel pump, wasnt priming, checked for voltage in the yellow/black wire, nothing was there

So I assumed my main relay was ---- (I can feel it clicking rapdily when I try and prime the pump)

Just went to the yard and grabbed 2, one off a 91 civic and another off a crx si. Hope one is good

Just thought id update it

Loserkidwac

Sounds like a good plan...keep us posted

Turblow

Well I dont know if it was the main relay, the ecu reset or my resolderring my power wire to the fuel pump but it all of the sudden worked

walbros are loud btw- ------ wow ( I quickly found out I didnt clamp my fuel feed line and it blew off with 60psi pressure hahahaha)

So I adjusted my FPR slowly but surely down to 38 or so psi when its priming, should be good enough to start it

I went to check spark by taking the #1 cyl wire and plug out, reconnecting them and holding them very close to my valve cover ground, has my GRANDMA crank the car for a second, I couldnt see a think, did it again, couldnt see ----

Oh ya, and it didn throw a code without starting, code 10, thats my only one

So I guess tomorrow its new distributor time or could it be something else?

BTW- I LOVE JUNKYARDS!

Loserkidwac

Code 10 is IAT intake air temp sensor could that be what you left unplugged?

1991civicsi

Two parts I replaced on my civic were the Main relay and the ignitor inside of the dizzy.

Turblow

the IAT sensor is definetely what I left unplugged

Not needed to start or run at all right? I dont want no check engine light all the time though

"#1 check to make sure that your belt is on correctly and that the distrib. is pointing to the correct cylinder compared to the crankpulley ..meaning turn your crank pulley to TDC manually and make sure the dizzy is pointing to #1 cylinder"

I have no idea how to do this, no idea what the inidctates what cyl its pointing at

88crxSi

the IAT will not keep it from starting thats forsure.



my ef service manual says that for a SOHC 1.6l (its a jdm manual but the SOHC ZC = d16a6) the cam gear should have the the "UP" pointing up while the two lines should line up w/ the head. For the crank, the white mark (thats the one all by itself) should be aligned w/ the two marks on the lower timing belt cover. see picture.



this should insure base mechanical timing is accurate.

before you go by a entire new dist follow diagnostic procedures to determine if it's wiring related.