GimpyCivic

Sorry this is so ghetto (hey its HMT anyway, right?). I scanned these out of a couple service manuals I have. I would save this jpeg to your computer if you want it.. i frequently move/remove ---- on my webserver! Black or brown is where you wanna be.. optimally. Basically you buy the appropriate bearings and then plastiguage it... and 9 times out of 10 you'll be within service limits. If not, down to the next size of bearing with you! If in doubt, mic the crank.





sorry for these being so huge, but any smaller and blind ******* like me can't read them. I added this second one for rod bearing sizing, i realize that scan is from a V6 Honda, but same ---- applies on 4 poppers, just 2 less bearings Note that on the ROD bearings, the #'s are reversed, as in the #'s are on the rod/cap and the letter is on the crank. They do that so you won't make a mistake!!!

MikeJ-2009

That's a good chart. Nice find. Try to keep that one, I know we'll need it.

Dr.Boost

OMG I had no idea it was so technical. What happens when you get aftermarket rods? Then how do you know what color to use? Trial and error? That kinda sucks. That's a nice chart though. That's also one fo the reasons I like boosting on stock blocks.
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GimpyCivic

Ive never owned a set of aftermarket rods for Honda, but on my last Mustang I had a set of eagle H beams. I tried the std bearing and it was a little loose for my taste... so I then stepped down -0.010 and it was in the middle of Ford's service limit.. so I used it and had no problem. The crank had never been ground.. it was a brand new Eagle crank. I have been told Eagle's QC sometimes is lacking, so maybe thats why.

MikeJ-2009

I don't think the differance in clearance is due to the rods. I think from the factory all the cranks and/or blocks/girdles have different clearances due to the neccessary machining at the factory. That's why I believe the rods aren't taken into consideration when it comes to the bearing colors/numbers. I could be wrong, but that's how I understand it.

sean88accord

Is this all your doing to build up your engine ?

Id consider a good build up with this type of frame work myself

Balancing. pistons ,rods,crank, etc. get it all balanced
get the pistons and rods wieght matched

Bore and hone ( after you get the pistons better to hone each hole to each piston.

Cut the god dammned crank to a .010 undersize. Take this crank grinding routine and enjoy having a nice strength adding fillet added to the rod and main journals.

While your in there turning the Crank have it shot peened re nitride coated and micro polished.

Get somebody with good micrometers to measure everythign befreo you even beging assmbly. then backwards check with plastiguage.

For those new eagle rods. Send them to the machien shop and have the tolerance check top to bottom while there being wiegth matched and balnced.

I highly advice in Mian bearing studs. Aluminum blocks suffer from Cap walk something fierce. a cheap set of studs will save you main bearings.

If you machine shop is capable give them a spare head and have them do the final honing with a head bolted on and the block upside down in the mill. This will help keep the cylinders round.

Id highly advise agaisnt posting the block. Your just asking for trouble that way. If you do get it posted good luck.

Get a damned block guard froma reputable company sobody like JG etc thas welded in.

When the block si being bored make sure the deck height is correct, the deck is sauqre to the crank and when there boring/honing have them put the cylinder back in line with the crank journals and make sure its perpindcular as well.

and last but not least you should get the line bore on the main bearings checked. Itll help reudce fucked up clearances in the end and your main bearings will like you for it.,

thats all i can think of.

Dr.Boost

Jesus, how much would all of that cost you?

One problem with that is finding a shop that is capable of doing it. I would imagine a shop around here would look at me like I was stupid and just tell me they did all that ---- just to shut me up. I highly doubt they would bore/hone my block with the head attached. I guess you would just have to find a good shop and a winning lottery ticket to do all of that.
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sean88accord

Actually most good shops have TQ plates. yes you can hone the clyinder with the head on and the block upside won. the mians dont get in the way of anything except for the boring bar.

If you want this level and quality of machine work done. You should conatc VT competition engines in Flint michigan. they do excelent work !