Originally Posted by D Grade

Nice 2G. Not trying to knock your setup, but you could have easily made 400hp on a TD06-20G or T3/T4 50trim .63 A/R.

Originally Posted by D Grade

It's one thing to want to be original, it's another to go with something proven.

Baldur, good luck on the setup. May I recommend an ACT 2900 for ultimate ---- slippage. Pedal pressure and catch is, at least to me, identical to the 2600 (just with more holding power).

Originally Posted by D Grade

Nice 2G. Not trying to knock your setup, but you could have easily made 400hp on a TD06-20G or T3/T4 50trim .63 A/R. All on stock internals too. Doesn't matter if its on a 6 bolt or 7 bolt 4G63. If the 7 bolt is gonna walk, nothing's gonna change it's mind. The only way I see that build useful is if you plan on taking that 2.0 over 500hp in the future.

As for the oh so overly used "shitty Mitsu drivetrain" statement, it's 90% of the time driver oriented, the other 10% is power when damage occurs. You get alot of young punks who get their hands on a DSM and think it's uber l33t to dump the clutch at 6K. Then they wonder why they are dealing with fucked up transfer cases and rear diffs.

If you need further insurance, go with a baller Shep built tranny (which it says you have in your sig).


Pretty darn low. Stock 6 bolt 4G63's in the 1G DSM's come with 7.8:1c/r stock. Alot of 1G owners use the stock 2G 8.5:1c/r pistons on the beefy 1G rods when doing mild builds, works nicely. I did this on my first 1G DSM and found much better drivability out of boost. According to the pocketlogger PDA, the bumped c/r didn't have any adverse effect on knock or timing advance with the same exact tune I used in the stock setup using the same shitty 92 pump gas. Definitly made more power with the bumped c/r too.

He on the other hand will probably hate life under 3500rpm's :3

Alcohol injection, FTFW!!!! :y

Originally Posted by D Grade

If you're content with 12's. ::)