baldur

The car:

The retarded american hybrid turbo, to be replaced with something not so retarded (who the ---- puts a 75mm turbine wheel inside the smallest turbine housing ever?):


Some of the gearbox bits:



Intercooler:

Manley rods:

TiAL 38mm:

Custom spec ROSS pistons, 7.6:1 compression:




Should make an efficient 400hp on pump gas when completed, don't think I wanna put any more strain than that on a shitty Mitsubishi drivetrain.
There are some things not pictured, such as the 4 spider center differential and MLS head gasket.

QikEnuF

7.6:1 Don't know a lot about DSM's, but isn't that pretty low?

baldur

That's pretty low, ideal for running 30psi boost on pump fuel all day.

RotaryGeek

lol i thought those were magazine shots for a second. You have a pretty good camera. Yeah nice car anyways. I want a gsx so bad. I already got the honda, now i just need the second most hated import car in the world lol. Good work though.

baldur

The picture of the car is done by a friend of mine who's a photography geek. The macro pictures are done on my Canon Ixus IS850 and the camera I keep in the garage, a Samsung Digimax S201.

MustangC.

as opposed to running 9:1 with 20 PSI and making the same power?

D Grade

Nice 2G. Not trying to knock your setup, but you could have easily made 400hp on a TD06-20G or T3/T4 50trim .63 A/R. All on stock internals too. Doesn't matter if its on a 6 bolt or 7 bolt 4G63. If the 7 bolt is gonna walk, nothing's gonna change it's mind. The only way I see that build useful is if you plan on taking that 2.0 over 500hp in the future.

As for the oh so overly used "shitty Mitsu drivetrain" statement, it's 90% of the time driver oriented, the other 10% is power when damage occurs. You get alot of young punks who get their hands on a DSM and think it's uber l33t to dump the clutch at 6K. Then they wonder why they are dealing with fucked up transfer cases and rear diffs.

If you need further insurance, go with a baller Shep built tranny (which it says you have in your sig).


Pretty darn low. Stock 6 bolt 4G63's in the 1G DSM's come with 7.8:1c/r stock. Alot of 1G owners use the stock 2G 8.5:1c/r pistons on the beefy 1G rods when doing mild builds, works nicely. I did this on my first 1G DSM and found much better drivability out of boost. According to the pocketlogger PDA, the bumped c/r didn't have any adverse effect on knock or timing advance with the same exact tune I used in the stock setup using the same shitty 92 pump gas. Definitly made more power with the bumped c/r too.

He on the other hand will probably hate life under 3500rpm's

Alcohol injection, FTFW!!!!

Slo_crx1

Good ----! Kinda glad to see more dsm threads on here lately, kinda helps me out with mine seeing that the only thing I ever had was utter hatred for them lol.

baldur

I know you _can_ push them up to that power level on stock internals and stock compression ratio. However on pump gas you lose efficiency at high boost due to retarded timing on a high compression ratio motor. Also the stock internals will happily do up to 500hp, for a limited amount of time until the rods snap and send a piston through the head, this has been tried and tested over and over.
Yes, I have what you could call a Shep stage 3 trans, with chromoly shift forks and 4 spider center diff and new 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear + intermediate shaft. Currently being assembled. I know drivetrain reliability is 90% up to the driver, I've got a history of broken gears and driveshafts in my other car but I've learned to launch in a way that both gives you better 60ft times and saves the drivetrain, it just calls for a metallic (puck) clutch which doesn't go up in smoke when slipped a bit and slipping it off the line.
As for alcohol injection, I want to drag race the car in a street car class which is pretty open except that fuel must be gasoline sold off the pump, no additives of any sort.
The difference in efficiency between a 7.6:1 engine and a 8.5:1 engine is a mere 3% in conditions where you're not knock limited (off boost). Once you get into boost pressures above 20psi the 7.6:1 engine will start making more power on pump gas. Of course, if I was building an engine to run on E85 or race gas, I would've gone with off the shelf pistons.
The engine is built for 600hp and 8000rpm (manufacturer rating of those rods), but 400 is the target to start with at least. I have some room for improvement in head work and turbocharger when 400hp becomes boring.

TorganFM

Any low end you lose from dropping c/r you can get back by playing with the timing. The risk vs reward of using higher compression isn't in the favor of reward in my eyes. There's far too much risk when it comes to tuning, a weird weather day, etc for me to want to run higher comp, when I can get back low end by playing with timing.