I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
01-13-2005, 09:59 PM
#31
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 735
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
http://www.pbase.com/verdugo/image/36492498
Sorry to say I sanded this down and painted her myself. Took about an hour, 3 cans of paint.
Sorry to say I sanded this down and painted her myself. Took about an hour, 3 cans of paint.
01-13-2005, 10:02 PM
#32
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 121
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
Originally Posted by Holly
http://www.pbase.com/verdugo/image/36492498
Sorry to say I sanded this down and painted her myself. Took about an hour, 3 cans of paint.
Sorry to say I sanded this down and painted her myself. Took about an hour, 3 cans of paint.
01-13-2005, 10:13 PM
#33
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 735
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
I care nothing about cosmetics, so I just used primer. But you can sand it down with finer ---- and make it decent looking. Mine was a half *** job cause I got tired and needed to cover up the hood.
01-13-2005, 10:18 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
Originally Posted by Stealthmode
Other than what I already posted that I need to research, I also have more questions.
My factory paint is in ok condition. Of course I have to fill a couple small dents, but should I primer even if the factory paint is in ok shape? And what grit should I use on the factory paint to get it to where the primer will stick well?
I'm pretty sure I've heard of people just spraying over the original paint, but if not, how rough does it need to be?
My factory paint is in ok condition. Of course I have to fill a couple small dents, but should I primer even if the factory paint is in ok shape? And what grit should I use on the factory paint to get it to where the primer will stick well?
I'm pretty sure I've heard of people just spraying over the original paint, but if not, how rough does it need to be?
nothing wrong with spraying over old paint most places do as follows
sand it down with wet sand paper, try let it dry look for missed spots and wet sand again until you get it fine, basically getting most the clear coat off and having it scuffed well (NOTE: if you have it sanded well, the sanded body when wet will look slick as glass it, wont beed or roll of like normal paint) then they spray a sealer and then spray the paint either single stage or base clear if you have the $
anyhow this is what i know, hope i helped some
01-13-2005, 10:44 PM
#35
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,368
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
Homemade paint job! Car, rims and "JDM y0" corners
[img width=500 height=550]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjc5NDkwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
[img width=500 height=550]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjgxNzI5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
[img width=500 height=550]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjc5NDkwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
[img width=500 height=550]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjgxNzI5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
01-13-2005, 11:25 PM
#38
0.5 BAR
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 199
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
One thing almost everyone forgets is that almost all ( at least 9 out of 10 brands Ive used) Automotive paints is a Bake type paint. Meaning it MUST have a flash bake between coats... This isnt just to help speed drying time, but it activates the catalyst and creates a molecular bond with the primer.
As for prep, as FSUFAN said, a decent sealer will suffice, but for me, since im a damn perfectionist, I always use a primer. It makes for a more uniform, deep color...Think Maaco versus a high end paint job.
Take a DA and some 220 grit paper, and spend a good half of a day sanding her down. This is one of the most important steps...take your time. A ---- sanding job will show, no matter what people say.
Always, ALWAYS use a wax/degreaser after you sand to make sure you have a virgin sureface to spray. Youd be surprised what a thumbprint looks like after its been shot.
Another step people tend to jump is a decent strip down...Its alot easier to take off parts then to mask them. Badges, trim, other acc that you dont want painted pop off alot quicker than taking the time to mask.
Lay down 2-3 coats of base coat, allowing a proper cure time in between.When doing this, you want a good coverage per stroke, not like rattle can, where you sweep back and forth for coverage. Dont go too thick on the layer, but enough to cover.
Then comes the clear coat. This is something that if youve never laid down, you might want to find a scrap hood and practice on for a bit. Clear loves to run if your not experienced. When laying down clear, like base, you want a good coverage, but without runs...here lighter is a bit better though. A good clear coat will require 2-3 coats as well, but if ya want a bling-bling super *** glossy coat, more will do the trick.
As for wet sanding, none (in my opinion) is needed untill the very end, then take some time with a 1100 grit, and take just the top fraction of a MM off, to make that shine come through.
As for equipment, Everyone uses something different. I personally use a Sata spray gun. Expensive lil bitch, but worth every penny. Also, you want to use a gravity feed versus a perssure can, but thats mainly to cut down on painter fatigue.
USE A LINE DRYER> END OF STORY. you dont want any water in the lines, and ive never seen a comp that doesnt build moisture. water in paint= bad.
Use 2 regulators...or a digital gun. One reg on the comp, one on the end of the gun. Run the comp side at about 15 psi higher than the gun side, to make sure you wont have a fluxuation in pressure.
As for paint, dont ask...there are soo many companys out there, but I only personally tough Dupont or House of Kolors..good stuff. Just make sure you buy enough to start...
Mix only what you will spray per load..I.e. dont mix up a gallon, and spary in a quart intervals...paint cures once catalyst is added, no matter what.
Always strain your paint, so not to jam up your gun, or lay contaminants in the coats.
Im sure I left something out, so any more Q's just ask.
And yes, I paint cars....
As for prep, as FSUFAN said, a decent sealer will suffice, but for me, since im a damn perfectionist, I always use a primer. It makes for a more uniform, deep color...Think Maaco versus a high end paint job.
Take a DA and some 220 grit paper, and spend a good half of a day sanding her down. This is one of the most important steps...take your time. A ---- sanding job will show, no matter what people say.
Always, ALWAYS use a wax/degreaser after you sand to make sure you have a virgin sureface to spray. Youd be surprised what a thumbprint looks like after its been shot.
Another step people tend to jump is a decent strip down...Its alot easier to take off parts then to mask them. Badges, trim, other acc that you dont want painted pop off alot quicker than taking the time to mask.
Lay down 2-3 coats of base coat, allowing a proper cure time in between.When doing this, you want a good coverage per stroke, not like rattle can, where you sweep back and forth for coverage. Dont go too thick on the layer, but enough to cover.
Then comes the clear coat. This is something that if youve never laid down, you might want to find a scrap hood and practice on for a bit. Clear loves to run if your not experienced. When laying down clear, like base, you want a good coverage, but without runs...here lighter is a bit better though. A good clear coat will require 2-3 coats as well, but if ya want a bling-bling super *** glossy coat, more will do the trick.
As for wet sanding, none (in my opinion) is needed untill the very end, then take some time with a 1100 grit, and take just the top fraction of a MM off, to make that shine come through.
As for equipment, Everyone uses something different. I personally use a Sata spray gun. Expensive lil bitch, but worth every penny. Also, you want to use a gravity feed versus a perssure can, but thats mainly to cut down on painter fatigue.
USE A LINE DRYER> END OF STORY. you dont want any water in the lines, and ive never seen a comp that doesnt build moisture. water in paint= bad.
Use 2 regulators...or a digital gun. One reg on the comp, one on the end of the gun. Run the comp side at about 15 psi higher than the gun side, to make sure you wont have a fluxuation in pressure.
As for paint, dont ask...there are soo many companys out there, but I only personally tough Dupont or House of Kolors..good stuff. Just make sure you buy enough to start...
Mix only what you will spray per load..I.e. dont mix up a gallon, and spary in a quart intervals...paint cures once catalyst is added, no matter what.
Always strain your paint, so not to jam up your gun, or lay contaminants in the coats.
Im sure I left something out, so any more Q's just ask.
And yes, I paint cars....
01-13-2005, 11:32 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
Originally Posted by Mista_Shrpnl
One thing almost everyone forgets is that almost all ( at least 9 out of 10 brands Ive used) Automotive paints is a Bake type paint. Meaning it MUST have a flash bake between coats... This isnt just to help speed drying time, but it activates the catalyst and creates a molecular bond with the primer.
As for prep, as FSUFAN said, a decent sealer will suffice, but for me, since im a damn perfectionist, I always use a primer. It makes for a more uniform, deep color...Think Maaco versus a high end paint job.
Take a DA and some 220 grit paper, and spend a good half of a day sanding her down. This is one of the most important steps...take your time. A ---- sanding job will show, no matter what people say.
Always, ALWAYS use a wax/degreaser after you sand to make sure you have a virgin sureface to spray. Youd be surprised what a thumbprint looks like after its been shot.
Another step people tend to jump is a decent strip down...Its alot easier to take off parts then to mask them. Badges, trim, other acc that you dont want painted pop off alot quicker than taking the time to mask.
Lay down 2-3 coats of base coat, allowing a proper cure time in between.When doing this, you want a good coverage per stroke, not like rattle can, where you sweep back and forth for coverage. Dont go too thick on the layer, but enough to cover.
Then comes the clear coat. This is something that if youve never laid down, you might want to find a scrap hood and practice on for a bit. Clear loves to run if your not experienced. When laying down clear, like base, you want a good coverage, but without runs...here lighter is a bit better though. A good clear coat will require 2-3 coats as well, but if ya want a bling-bling super *** glossy coat, more will do the trick.
As for wet sanding, none (in my opinion) is needed untill the very end, then take some time with a 1100 grit, and take just the top fraction of a MM off, to make that shine come through.
As for equipment, Everyone uses something different. I personally use a Sata spray gun. Expensive lil bitch, but worth every penny. Also, you want to use a gravity feed versus a perssure can, but thats mainly to cut down on painter fatigue.
USE A LINE DRYER> END OF STORY. you dont want any water in the lines, and ive never seen a comp that doesnt build moisture. water in paint= bad.
Use 2 regulators...or a digital gun. One reg on the comp, one on the end of the gun. Run the comp side at about 15 psi higher than the gun side, to make sure you wont have a fluxuation in pressure.
As for paint, dont ask...there are soo many companys out there, but I only personally tough Dupont or House of Kolors..good stuff. Just make sure you buy enough to start...
Mix only what you will spray per load..I.e. dont mix up a gallon, and spary in a quart intervals...paint cures once catalyst is added, no matter what.
Always strain your paint, so not to jam up your gun, or lay contaminants in the coats.
Im sure I left something out, so any more Q's just ask.
And yes, I paint cars....
As for prep, as FSUFAN said, a decent sealer will suffice, but for me, since im a damn perfectionist, I always use a primer. It makes for a more uniform, deep color...Think Maaco versus a high end paint job.
Take a DA and some 220 grit paper, and spend a good half of a day sanding her down. This is one of the most important steps...take your time. A ---- sanding job will show, no matter what people say.
Always, ALWAYS use a wax/degreaser after you sand to make sure you have a virgin sureface to spray. Youd be surprised what a thumbprint looks like after its been shot.
Another step people tend to jump is a decent strip down...Its alot easier to take off parts then to mask them. Badges, trim, other acc that you dont want painted pop off alot quicker than taking the time to mask.
Lay down 2-3 coats of base coat, allowing a proper cure time in between.When doing this, you want a good coverage per stroke, not like rattle can, where you sweep back and forth for coverage. Dont go too thick on the layer, but enough to cover.
Then comes the clear coat. This is something that if youve never laid down, you might want to find a scrap hood and practice on for a bit. Clear loves to run if your not experienced. When laying down clear, like base, you want a good coverage, but without runs...here lighter is a bit better though. A good clear coat will require 2-3 coats as well, but if ya want a bling-bling super *** glossy coat, more will do the trick.
As for wet sanding, none (in my opinion) is needed untill the very end, then take some time with a 1100 grit, and take just the top fraction of a MM off, to make that shine come through.
As for equipment, Everyone uses something different. I personally use a Sata spray gun. Expensive lil bitch, but worth every penny. Also, you want to use a gravity feed versus a perssure can, but thats mainly to cut down on painter fatigue.
USE A LINE DRYER> END OF STORY. you dont want any water in the lines, and ive never seen a comp that doesnt build moisture. water in paint= bad.
Use 2 regulators...or a digital gun. One reg on the comp, one on the end of the gun. Run the comp side at about 15 psi higher than the gun side, to make sure you wont have a fluxuation in pressure.
As for paint, dont ask...there are soo many companys out there, but I only personally tough Dupont or House of Kolors..good stuff. Just make sure you buy enough to start...
Mix only what you will spray per load..I.e. dont mix up a gallon, and spary in a quart intervals...paint cures once catalyst is added, no matter what.
Always strain your paint, so not to jam up your gun, or lay contaminants in the coats.
Im sure I left something out, so any more Q's just ask.
And yes, I paint cars....
01-13-2005, 11:35 PM
#40
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 709
Re:I want to see some homemadepaintjobs
Click for a larger image. Rockin the steelies!! pic is about a year old
Did it in my garage almost 10 years ago. I have since outgrown the "scallops" but too lazy and scared to do a FULL paint. Used Emeron with no clear and man let me tell you, that ---- doesnt wetsand for nothing!!
