Alex in Houston

You're lean if it's popping through the intake and slowing down. If you're running the stock meter and have it set for blow thru, you' re reaching the 5 volt limit fairly quick once the turbos spool under load. Put a volt meter on the Mass Air and I think you will see the meter is going past the 5 volts and the computer can't do anything with/for that.
Time to look into a decent meter and some injectors (screw that fmU).
I run some 42# Low impedance units from 4 Ford CFI motors. They have to be modded (nothing major) to fit a SFI rail and I also run a pair of resistor boxes pirated from Mitsubishi's (could also use the Honda ones, or the Volvo ones etc..) Low cost, effective with plenty of spares! I also have an EEC-Tuner board to tune with. I have found it to be in-valuable in trying to achieve big power and driveabilty when using a stock processor. Though if I ever find someone local that can tune the MegaSquirt stuff, I'll build one of those and run that.

J-SMITH69

do you think its possible to peg the meter at 5psi from those two little turbos?

its poping out of the exhaust.

the plugs dont show it running lean. im regapping them right now... they are gapped stock at like .55 or something? im gapping them down to .35

what about timing? my timing is at 5 degrees base. which is aprox 20-21 i guess at wot? could it be too retarded?

i wish you were on more, or would get on AIM. so i can bombard you with questions.

Alex in Houston

A stock meter and electronics are only good for around 590 cfm (if that). Also boost is just an indication of what the motor COULDN'T digest. It's means nothing in terms of how much air the turbos are actually flowing.

Exhaust is usually rich...........................UNLESS you're pegging the meter, at which point the computer defaults and immediately leans the tables out.
Disconnect the battery, stand on the brake pedal and count to 30 (that will drain the capacitors waaay faster then waiting 30 minutes to an hour on their own) reconnect the battery and take it for a spin. That clears the computer and resets the Adaptive Learning to 0. Se what happens following that and report back.

Wooaahh, you had them at 55, the stock gap range? NO, not a good thing. Gap them down to 32. I'd really recommend running some that one heat range colder but you should suffice by gapping them down for now.

Timing is Base (with spout removed) plus 16.
You can tell if it's too retarded by making a hard pass and getting out and looking at the headers. Glowing headers from unburnt fuel will make the headers glow like a log on a fire.

LOL, you seem to be getting it together just fine without my input! You're almost there, just need to learn more about the EEC-IV. Believe it or not, you have enough parts to put your car deep in the 11's on drag radials and still be daily driven. Get the car to run at WOT with 5psi, then crank that bitch up (really, I mean a good tune and enough gas you should easily be able to force feed 12-15 psi with those small units before compressor surge sets in) Those units should be able to supply enough air for like 400 RWHP and 450 RW TORQUE (the number that really counts!). You really only need about 375 and some traction to get a fox body into the low 12's high 11's. The AOD won't take the abuse without a performance rebuild (about a grand). Though it should last for a little while into the mid to high 12's.
If you remember the older video of my Green Car, that was with Dodge Garrets at 10 psi (though I have HCI). It screamed with those units. Just needed to step up a bit which is why I built the new set-up around a pair of the Grand National umits (looking to make 600 hp/tq, which is pushing the stock block to it's limits. Oh well, something always needs upgrading once you get past certain power levels i've learned)

J-SMITH69

heh, you're a cool guy alex.

i was re-gapping the plugs and i stumbled acrossed the #3 spark plug boot that was loose on the plug. i took it off and scrumched down the metal dealie inside with some plyers and it pop'd on like it should. went for a drive and it stoped poping. i think it was just that plug boot that was loose and only making a good enough connection to work cruising or at part throttle.

the plugs all looked very nice and grey seeming to be running with a decent a/f

it felt pretty decent for 5.5psi which the goofy chysler t3s are set at. what i meant was if those little turbos could even feed enough air at 5.5psi to max the meter.

gunna turn it up to 8 tomarrow and see what happens. the aod has is stock except for a valve body. im assuming stock converter, or at least the stock rpm converter. i dunno what it is probably like 1200 or something lol

linkmustang

do not use platnim spark plugs on the mustang use 1 or 2 heat

also i have a 92 mustang gt 5.0 5 speed with 128,237 miles have allmost the same turbos i have cut the down pipe like u and have a bov for a 1.8t vw and a fmu 12:1 on the car and u pic some pic of how u did the hearder to turbos and the down tubes please please

linkmustang

here the turbos i have that what i got

linkmustang

who sell those 3 bolt inlet flange

Spenser

almost no one, lol.

linkmustang

damn

linkmustang

to u have i one pair of those headers i have the stock one will that work