Donald125

My last car had low oil pressure, 0 to 5 psi at idle 35 psi at redline, the gauge reads no difference between 0w-30 to 20w-40 :1

Donald125

Jago, mine was an autometer :P

b18.

LMAO @ TEH AQUABATS

signorelli21

lol, its retarded that something as simple as changing your oil requires such a lengthy debate.

As posted above, the honda spec says 10 psi per 1000rpm, so if your between 10-15 psi at idle then your are within spec and don't need to fix anything.

All oil pressure means is the amount of work required to pump/circulate the oil through the engine, when the engine is cold the oil is thicker (not sure if thats the correct word for it) and pressure is higher, after it warms up it is thinner and takes less work to pump the same amount of fluid, so pressure drops.

also, the weight of oils is actually a rating that indicates an oils behavior at certain temperatures, oils that have a w behind the number are winter rated, the lower the number the faster it flows at lower temperatures.

such as:

10W-30

10W= Viscosity at 32 degrees F
30= Viscosity at 212 degrees F

I use valvoline 5-30, change when it gets dirty and don't run a guage, d-series FTW!

Slo_crx1

That's what I used to run in all of my turbo'd honda motors. The stuff is phenomenal. These motors were designed to run 5w-30 in stock form, but now that you have the added heat strain from a turbo of course your oil is going to thin out more. If you raise the viscosity level you're running it'll stress your oil less and your engine will love you for it. In the winter the lowest I'd go was 10w40, and the warmer months was 15w-40. Oil pressure always stayed above 20psi at idle and usually around 70-90psi at max rpm depending on the motor and oil pump.

SQ is the SQUAD

its good ----

losesomethinbra

I'm sure a lurking noob will post on this ---- so I will clear it up beforehand

Pick the winter rating for where the car is first, if you use too high a number in too cold of weather it can be hard on the bearings during cold starts

0W - Hella cold
5W - Colder
10W Average cold (maybe 15-20 degrees f at worst, idk exactly. either way if you live in a place like arizona there is no reason to use 0w or 5w)

Then choose how thick of oil you want when its hot

20 - not so thick (practically water, good for new hondas for some reason)
30 - thicker (average)
40 - thicker (higher performance than usual, less water-like than the previous oils and cushions the bearings better than 30 or 20 especially at higher operating temps)
50 - very thick (same story as the 40, but also for big engines or high mileage 4 banger - something with some decent bearing clearances that need to be filled)

Now the trick is you dont want a huge distance between the two numbers... 0w-40 would probably not be as good of an idea as 10w-40 if you can manage not having as much of a cold/winter rating. This has to do with the multi-viscosity properties and the wider this gap the sooner the oil tends to inherently break down

TorganFM

Sometimes... but Mobil 5w50 is awesome ----. It's been proven to not break down like other large range oils, but I don't know where the link is.

losesomethinbra

Yeah I think the synthetics are more robust when it comes to the large ranges I guess I should have said that up top