Slo_crx1

Alright...here's the breakdown on fmu's and afc's/bluebox's. Fmu's will raise the rate of pressure on your fuel rail and is usually intended to be used with stock injectors and a missing link/check valves. These work semi-ok up to about 5-6 psi depending on the cfm flow of your turbo. But that still leaves the issue of the increased timing under boost, which is not a good thing on sohc honda's.
Afc's and the bluebox are pretty much the same thing, they allow you to scale a larger injector down using the stock ecu maps in order to add more fuel under boost. These work ok on stock boosted cars such as dsm's or wrx's (to a degree) but on honda's they present an even greater timing problem...they scale the timing tables back as well to sections of the ecu map that have the highest timing advance numbers. Here the limit of boost you can run is usually 8-10psi, anything after that and the ecu will start seeing boost again and throw you back into limp mode.
Only way to combat the timing issue with these 2 is to get an msd btm and run at least a 1*/psi boost retard, probably even more with the afc/greddy units.
So all said and done you spent way more money and time than you would have if you had converted to obd1 and chipped and tuned your ecu.

imburne

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ It doesent get much better than what he stated ^^^^^^^^^


Keep on with your bullshit

idiot-stick

Seriously dude, you need an ODB1 conversion harness and a chipped ECU. It's silly to go with anything else.


This is you right now:


'Hi, I'd like a junior bacon cheeseburger and a small coke'

'Well, we can upgrade your burger to include a full pound of thick sliced hickory smoked bacon and a keg of coke for absolutely free. For a limited time, we'll throw in hot lesbians'

'No thanks, I'll just take the regular burger'

imburne

^^^^^ And then he would say, you know what, cancel that all together and just throw in two buns and I will use my friends sausage for the meat so when I give him some road head it will be different. And let me get a diet pepsi to wash it down.


Why the ---- do people like this wanna go the hard way that is NOT the BETTER way. Now if it was people would be saying, man thats going to be tough but it might be worth it. Not in your case. Its not any better, and its purely ------ rigged. If you go do it that way the only place you will be able to show off your douchebag setup is H-T. They will be like aw man thats a cool valve cover. You will be like man its stock, I never even pulled it off. Then the guy will reply oh okay its just real cleen dude!! I gona get minez chromed !

------- DIE!

97civicdxt

thanks slo_crx, i jsut want to get my car running, ive beenw ithout it for a weak and i need it, its my 1 and only somone, but while i have the fmu setup ill order a chip so when i get it ill convert obd1 then, so out of all the places that makes chips, which is the most affordable and productive? Right now that fmu ill be using is absolutly free till i give it back, and one more question, seeing i can't get a straight answer, from here, turbod16.com, and honda-tech, i need the intake manifold off either a d16y8, or off a eg dx for the 2wire iacv, i have the ecu, i have the conversion harness, and on HMT and turbod16.com they said i actually need a obd1 motor to do the conversion, which i dont think should make a difference. Right now i have the fmu hooked up, taking off the aftermarket reg, putting the stock reg back on along with the stock rail and gonna try it again, ifthat doesnt work should i try stock injectors along with it?

97civicdxt

put on the fmu, the missing link, and stock injectors started it up and was running as rich as the 310's were and still made my car go to idle at WOT, so i investigated and found a vacuum leak around the throttlebody and manifold, but would that be enough to make my car run at idle rev at WOT?

imburne

No. Or maybe. Yes. Oh yeah!!

97civicdxt

sweet, getting a new gasket 2morro hopefully this wil fix it and send me on my boosted ways, i swear if this works, ill post so much **** you gys will be bleeding fromt he pp's

97civicdxt

new gasket fixed the vacuum leak, but still vacuums 10 at idle when it should be 20, also stock injectors, rail, and reg are all back on, still running very rich, and still wont elt me WOT, so could the richness be from the o2 sensor placement? i have 1 8 inches away from turbo on DP and 1 on my testpipe which is around the pilpan, any ideas to fix the vacuum and richness?

b18.

you're a bit vague.