retarding timing
#11
Re:retarding timing
I don't understand why everyoen says you need to trip the cel code reader jumper to set timing... If you move the dizzy with the thing not jumped while looking @ the crank with a timing light you can watch the timing move... Moving the dizzy is a PHYSICAL CHANGE (since your actually changing the timing by spinning the electrical connections) and is 100% independent of the ECU as far as I can tell when moving it. Test it for yourself. You may not get an accurate reading of your base timing with the thing not jumped... I assume that is possible... but no matter when you mess with the dizzy, jumped or not, your timing does indeed change...
#12
Re:retarding timing
Your ecu also manipuilates the timing. Like how the AFC hack also causes the timing to advance. If you move the distributor without jumping it, the ecu will be trying to correct this. It might not be at idle as much as it is at cruising, but it is correcting it. Test it for yourself.......
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#13
Re:retarding timing
IMHO, if you are doing your boost/timing retard at the distributor, Id retard a minimum of 4degrees.
Like said B4, jump your service connector, pull the IACV plug from the back of the intake-manifold (get it to idle low enough so the ECU isnt adding timing) and time it to 12-13 degrees BTDC.
On an interseting side note, I played with the service connector to see if there was a difference in timing. In my case with the car idling at 800, there was none. Both the gun, and datalog showed the same. (I did have my lowspeed timing map expanded so there would be no timing change until like 2000rpm, so that may have been a factor). If you are on the stock ECU, it will begin to 'add' timing after 725rpm, thats why you want to pull the IACV plug to get it down.
Maybe Joseph D. will jump in on this one.
Like said B4, jump your service connector, pull the IACV plug from the back of the intake-manifold (get it to idle low enough so the ECU isnt adding timing) and time it to 12-13 degrees BTDC.
On an interseting side note, I played with the service connector to see if there was a difference in timing. In my case with the car idling at 800, there was none. Both the gun, and datalog showed the same. (I did have my lowspeed timing map expanded so there would be no timing change until like 2000rpm, so that may have been a factor). If you are on the stock ECU, it will begin to 'add' timing after 725rpm, thats why you want to pull the IACV plug to get it down.
Maybe Joseph D. will jump in on this one.
#16
Re:retarding timing
Plug the IACV back in when your done timing it. If it runs funny just reset the ECU.
Your OBD2?, sorry, know very little about them; I was just blabbing about the service connector thinking you were OBD0-1.
IF the idel is under 725 w/ no load dont worry bout' the connector. Might wanna invest in a manaul huh :P
Your OBD2?, sorry, know very little about them; I was just blabbing about the service connector thinking you were OBD0-1.
IF the idel is under 725 w/ no load dont worry bout' the connector. Might wanna invest in a manaul huh :P
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