need help with homemade turbo
05-24-2004, 06:05 AM
#11
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,365
Re:need help with homemade turbo
Ok then you are allowed to make your own kit. I am in no way about discouraging that kinda ----. Go for it. Get a mig welder, mock up a manifold and go.
I am most worried about is fuel managment. Any possible way you can purcahse that? That car is using some sort of bosch jetronic management. I was working on that ---- from 1983 cars and it was a pain in the ***.. worse on yours. Price out just the computer alone, the rest definately leave it up to your imagination.
I am most worried about is fuel managment. Any possible way you can purcahse that? That car is using some sort of bosch jetronic management. I was working on that ---- from 1983 cars and it was a pain in the ***.. worse on yours. Price out just the computer alone, the rest definately leave it up to your imagination.
05-24-2004, 10:33 AM
#13
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 21
Re:need help with homemade turbo
Best bet is to find someone selling their old turbo manifold. As for fuel management, I suggest a chip and 24# ford injectors( which actually run at 28# with bmw's fuel pressure )
PM me about the chip, i have some.
PM me about the chip, i have some.
05-24-2004, 06:48 PM
#14
0.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 12
Re:need help with homemade turbo
i don't know what 2 say ... i have instaled my injector already ...(they are 4 holes BOSCH from a mercedes benz v12)the car runs really good and...i can feel the diference what i whant 2 ask is ...if i am going to use the cip do i have 2 replace the air flow meter as well or just let it be and the cip alone will increase my gas and make the perfect air/fuel ratio ...and how mutch for that cip ?
<BMWboy>have u instaled a turbo on a bmw doze it pay off ? i don't plan 2 use more than 0.4 bars of boost for the start :)
<BMWboy>have u instaled a turbo on a bmw doze it pay off ? i don't plan 2 use more than 0.4 bars of boost for the start :)
05-25-2004, 11:41 AM
#17
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,194
Re:need help with homemade turbo
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=41907
This one sucks, but there's a link to a sweet setup lower down that page, a swedish E30 with a built up turbocharged M5 engine.
Here's another nice one
http://www.danneeklund.nu/temp/%C4rtan.mpg
This one sucks, but there's a link to a sweet setup lower down that page, a swedish E30 with a built up turbocharged M5 engine.
Here's another nice one
http://www.danneeklund.nu/temp/%C4rtan.mpg
06-02-2004, 02:53 PM
#18
0.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 12
Re:need help with homemade turbo
this is the best information i have yet found ...
so i;ll copy and paste here ...
maybe it's going 2 help some of you
this is the main problem so ...
Fuel Enrichment
Proper fuel enrichment is critical for a successful turbocharger installation. From the start I choose to work within the limitations of the stock ECU (to convert to a new stand-alone engine management computer would be very expensive – both to purchase, and to tune. I considered a Unichip (piggy-back system) but even this would be over $1000. Further, I did not plan on rebuilding and blueprinting my engine for high-boost toughness. I decided to limit boost to a maximum of 10-psi. By doing this, the stock engine management system can be retained, as well as stock engine internals. I admit that precise tuning with my approach is not easy, but I feel the settings I have work well. I don’t believe I am leaving a lot of horsepower potential unrealized due to poor engine tuning.
The basic fuel system components I added were:
1) 19-lb/hr Ford injectors (set of 8 for about $220). I did not replace the O-rings that came on these injectors with BMW replacements, and have experienced no leakage.
2) Mercedes 1980 450SEL fuel pump ($170). I talked to Jim Rowe (the Metric Mechanic) and he recommended a VW rabbit fuel pump. All you really need is a fuel pump used with the high-pressure CIS (Bosch continuous injection system). This type of fuel injection used an operational pressure of 65-psi but was only used on a few cars in the late-70’s early-80’s time period. I previously had replaced my in-tank fuel pump (it had become very noisy) along with a new fuel filter.
3) Fuel pump relay ($20) I used a VW rabbit unit, but it turned out to have a level of sophistication (computer must send signal to energize) that required me to short-out a trace on its circuit board to use it. I think there must be a simpler (dumb and directly usable without modification) fuel pump relay. Find it and use it.
4) Vortech “super-fuel-management unit” (pricey at $280)
5) Various Airequip fittings and 3/8-inch aluminum fuel line.
6) Custom bracket to mount fuel pump (made using muffler clamps and steel angle. Some welding required).
Second fuel pump was mounted to the side of the front frame-rail near the front of the engine on the intake-side. Fittings were needed to increase the 5/16-inch (8mm) ID fuel line to 5/8-inch at the second pumps inlet. Be sure to find a strong hose clamp to attach this large hose to the fuel pump’s inlet (it will see up to 3-bar (43-psi) fuel pressure from the in-tank pump and leaks are possible).
Because the Vortech super-FMU can replace the car’s fuel-pressure regulator as well as provide the increasing fuel pressure with boost, I cut off and welded on an Airequip fitting where the factory fuel-regulator mounted on the fuel-rail. The FMU was mounted behind the second fuel pump. I then ran 3/8-inch aluminum fuel line (in a 6-inch loop for flexibility covered with a larger rubber hose for thermal insulation) from the fuel pump to the fuel-rail and from the fuel-rail return port to the FMU. Before installing the FMU, I backed-out the static fuel pressure screw (all the way) to achieve a static fuel pressure of approximately 30-35-psi. This is lower than the 3-bar stock pressure but is beneficial in achieving a good performance match for the larger injector (operating with the stock ECU). Plus the lower initial pressure allows a greater range over which to increase fuel pressure. I then opened up the FMU and replaced the internal disk and centering ring with the pieces that deliver a fuel ramp rate of about 4.5-psi of fuel pump pressure per pound of boost (this was the second steepest ramp rate shown in the FMU’s instructions.
Ignition System
No modification
so i;ll copy and paste here ...
maybe it's going 2 help some of you
this is the main problem so ...
Fuel Enrichment
Proper fuel enrichment is critical for a successful turbocharger installation. From the start I choose to work within the limitations of the stock ECU (to convert to a new stand-alone engine management computer would be very expensive – both to purchase, and to tune. I considered a Unichip (piggy-back system) but even this would be over $1000. Further, I did not plan on rebuilding and blueprinting my engine for high-boost toughness. I decided to limit boost to a maximum of 10-psi. By doing this, the stock engine management system can be retained, as well as stock engine internals. I admit that precise tuning with my approach is not easy, but I feel the settings I have work well. I don’t believe I am leaving a lot of horsepower potential unrealized due to poor engine tuning.
The basic fuel system components I added were:
1) 19-lb/hr Ford injectors (set of 8 for about $220). I did not replace the O-rings that came on these injectors with BMW replacements, and have experienced no leakage.
2) Mercedes 1980 450SEL fuel pump ($170). I talked to Jim Rowe (the Metric Mechanic) and he recommended a VW rabbit fuel pump. All you really need is a fuel pump used with the high-pressure CIS (Bosch continuous injection system). This type of fuel injection used an operational pressure of 65-psi but was only used on a few cars in the late-70’s early-80’s time period. I previously had replaced my in-tank fuel pump (it had become very noisy) along with a new fuel filter.
3) Fuel pump relay ($20) I used a VW rabbit unit, but it turned out to have a level of sophistication (computer must send signal to energize) that required me to short-out a trace on its circuit board to use it. I think there must be a simpler (dumb and directly usable without modification) fuel pump relay. Find it and use it.
4) Vortech “super-fuel-management unit” (pricey at $280)
5) Various Airequip fittings and 3/8-inch aluminum fuel line.
6) Custom bracket to mount fuel pump (made using muffler clamps and steel angle. Some welding required).
Second fuel pump was mounted to the side of the front frame-rail near the front of the engine on the intake-side. Fittings were needed to increase the 5/16-inch (8mm) ID fuel line to 5/8-inch at the second pumps inlet. Be sure to find a strong hose clamp to attach this large hose to the fuel pump’s inlet (it will see up to 3-bar (43-psi) fuel pressure from the in-tank pump and leaks are possible).
Because the Vortech super-FMU can replace the car’s fuel-pressure regulator as well as provide the increasing fuel pressure with boost, I cut off and welded on an Airequip fitting where the factory fuel-regulator mounted on the fuel-rail. The FMU was mounted behind the second fuel pump. I then ran 3/8-inch aluminum fuel line (in a 6-inch loop for flexibility covered with a larger rubber hose for thermal insulation) from the fuel pump to the fuel-rail and from the fuel-rail return port to the FMU. Before installing the FMU, I backed-out the static fuel pressure screw (all the way) to achieve a static fuel pressure of approximately 30-35-psi. This is lower than the 3-bar stock pressure but is beneficial in achieving a good performance match for the larger injector (operating with the stock ECU). Plus the lower initial pressure allows a greater range over which to increase fuel pressure. I then opened up the FMU and replaced the internal disk and centering ring with the pieces that deliver a fuel ramp rate of about 4.5-psi of fuel pump pressure per pound of boost (this was the second steepest ramp rate shown in the FMU’s instructions.
Ignition System
No modification
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