Originally Posted by Toysrme

lmao fist yourself first JD as you defiantely don't know everything either. that or go inject your nuts with some estrogen to calm your negroid rage down
to start with. mid 20's, and i do happen to know a good deal about the US Toyota lineup going back to the mid 80's... *probably* because unlike youself I didn't spend all my time rubbing my dick on cars at the house. i got out, went through T-Ten and made a living as a successful toyota mechanic........
yes, i did just learn an safc can do frequency based tuning. besides the point, safc's suck lol




mother ------- dreaming if you think you'll ever make 300whp on a blue top for any length of time without a rebuild. youhave to realize it's a medium accomplishment to make 300whp reliably on a 4a-gze to turbo conversion.................. the easyest way to make 300whp is 4a-gze pistons (or custom) in a 1.8L 7a-fe block with an appropriate GE head.
let that sink in... You'll need pistons, or the most ungodly knock-resistant fuel you can come up with biatch. don't look at the book & think oh these 9.4:1 CR pistons will be perfect fot a turbo... they're not, the entire things are relatively fragile.
you'll be doing insanely well to make 225whp. 180-210 is the norm without swapping gze pistons, or buying a cheap set of JE's. the majority of those only staying together under 200whp. that my friend... isn't anywhere remotely ------- close to 300whp. lmao you'd be setting records at 300 flywheel if it stayed together afew days.








AFA acceptable tuning via blowing through the AFM flap. it's quite easy. i've done it multiple times, on multiple toyota turbo projects, all daily-driven. none experiancing problems, and the largest of which gained more than 2.5x the stock rated power , no management.... gas mileage was appreciably lower cruising, but the car was fine on & off boost.
Here's how you do it:
use a correctly sized fuel pump
use a fuel pressure regulator that will give a corrected LOW base fuel pressure, and the correct amount of pressure rising under boost
trigger open-loop at the onset of boost. (BPS flipping a relay on the VTA signal to supply with ECU's with the VS sensor suppl voltage is perfect)
set the AFM's cog to run the injectors correctly at wide open throttle. pop off the cover for the idle by-pass screw & re-adjust it without the o2 sensor connected until the engine will idle correctly if need be.

by correctly balancing the fuel pressure with the AFM cog. you will achive a fairly descently running setup. atleast as good as most well tuned carbies...


blowing through the AFM will gain you a better responce locating it on your throttlebody, and after the cooler. It also won't matter if you run your dump valve to atmo before the meter. plus... while Toyota ECU's do not make any particularly noteable changes based on the IAT sensor. The ECU will still be able to see your real temps, and that's good. those tiny steps of ignition timing are nice when your knock sensor only operates for about a 1000-1500rpm window...

Originally Posted by Toysrme

to start with. mid 20's

Originally Posted by Toysrme

and i do happen to know a good deal about the US Toyota lineup going back to the mid 80's... *probably* because unlike youself I didn't spend all my time rubbing my dick on cars at the house.

Originally Posted by evo_lucian

Ok now guys calm down , lets not let this great noob thread turn into ----. Back on topic

Originally Posted by alx954

Megasquirt FTMFW!!!!