I had some problems initially with my MS not wanting to read properly through the usb-serial port, thought I was going to have all sorts of problems, turns out, i just needed to sync up the proper version between what was loaded on the comp and what was on the MS. worked like a champ after that.

 

I have the MS 3.57 and MS 3.0 - 3.0 is self-assembly or, rather, through-hole assembly (as you can purchase it built as well) but the MS 3.57 is MUCH nicer and is all surface mount, but starts at a little more money. The one thing that is nice about the MS 3.0 is that it is much easier to modify - all the pads to tap/intercept on the MS 3.57 are SMALL. I can post more details from home when I modify the setup tonight.

 

No USB can be assigned to a COM port - that's the reason its not a Serial port

But, you can buy a serial -> USB adapter. Some do and some do not let you assign a comport emulator. So, go to DIYAutotune.com and buy the USB->Serial adapter they provide. It's proven to work with MS and typically configures itself as COM 5 (though this is selectable). It has a specific driver you install that emulates serial device interfacing and thus the reason you can choose a com port for a USB position.

There are USB -> Serial cables that are NOT serial emulating in fact they're just package interchanges meaning if space on a device is limited they might post a USB port on it (the physical port USB shaped) but it's truthfully a serial port.. so you might be trying to do that, I am not sure. But, you cannot simply use one of these interface changing cables when in actuality you need to emulate serial communication over the USB interface. Confusing I know - I do this for a living Check out DIY's approved adapter and you will have zero issue unless you have an actual MS board problem.

 

---- sorry for triple reply, but don't go for 2.2 Get a 3.0 and save yourself headaches. 2.2 are electronically identical to MS 3.0 in function but they are WORLDS harder to modify. If you intend to run ignition control I cannot urge you enough to start with a 3.0 or now a 3.57 (3.0 is easier to mod though because it's through-hole).

 

He has an actual board problem. I tested out the communications section of the board and it worked flawlessly, I powered up the board and pinged it through hyperterminal. I havnt had time to touch it since to see what exactly isn't working but he basically said the stim does nothing and it wouldn't talk to his pc. So it's either 2 separate problems (1,his pc won't recognize it and 2, something is wired wrong and his outputs aren't working) or his chip isn't functioning.

 

what he said. i'm not indulged in electronical knowledge/ability like tim is

 

Like mentioned above, get a 3.0 and put it together yourself. It is worth the work so you know what the heck is going on. Plus future modifications will be much easier. I have the ms2 running extra code and it has been great so far. I have modded it for distributorless ignition, did the input for launch control/flat shift and will be adding the circuits for boost control and dry nitrous here soon. If you have a wide band the autotune will make tuning everything out of boost cake. I've only worked up to just under 15# so far http://www.eville140.com/video/15psi.wmv

 

so i already ordered it last night. wish i had read this first. im gong to try and undo that and get the 3.0

 

oh yeah forgot to say. i couldnt find the 3.0 or 3.5 all i see is the II or I

 

OK SO I GUESS WHAT I GOT IS THE MSII WITH PRINTED CKT BOARD 3.0
IS THAT WHAT THE 3.0 IS. IF SO I GOT THAT ONE. ITS LIKE 247 UNASSEMBLED.
PN MS230-K