T-money

I just got everything on yesterday, got up this morning and put the oil back in and primed it to get oil to the turbo.Tried to crank it and it fired up for about 3 seconds and sputtered then went dead.I found gas around my adaptor plate and dripping out of the O2 housing.I put a new fuel filter and a Vortech FMU,but that's the only fuel stuff I've done to it .Can't understand why it's flooding out so bad.I had the injector clips off and the plug wires out while I primed the oil.I put all of them back on and made sure they went to the same ones they came off of.Any suggestions?

HMT-Admin

Are you using different injectors? take the FMU off, and put your fuel system back to complete stock (the way you had it before problems) then fire the car up, make sure everything is running ok. Then add your fuel management. The only way you could be getting fuel past the combustion chamber is if you had a injector seal blow, and it is flooding the cylinder. Pull the plugs let the cylinders dry out, and retry.

let us know what you find.

Jeff

T-money

I pulled the FMU off and put it back to stock (I did that after I posted this

T-money

Sorry , I mest up --------anyway I pulled the FMU already after I posted this question but before I came back to check for replies. I didn't have my downpipe made yet (hadn't went to the muffler shop yet) but after I pulled the FMU , I dried the O2 housing off and the floor where it dripped and crunk it up again and from what I could see it wasn't dripping or blowing gas out, but now the idle pulses as soon as I crank the car from 2K to 3K RPM. I haven't really driven the car except around in the yard to load it up to take it to the muffler shop. I took it there and got the downpipe on now. When I got back I crunk it again to pull it back into the garage and gave it a little bit of gas and it went to 4K and stayed there it won't idle for ----. I tried taking the negative battery cable off and resetting the computer and also tried adjusting the idle screw but that didn't help either. I've got a tuboXS type S bov and I read the instructions and it said something about adding washers or packers to adjust it so the car will idle right.I added one washer and tried that but still goes to 4K RPM as soon as I crank the car. I'm lost . I can use any help that you can give me. Thanks.

T-money

I forgot to tell you also that when I crank it my boost gauge goes to either 15 or 20 lbs. on the vaccum side--- is that normal--also I haven't put my boost controller on yet but I bent the wastegate bracket in towards the turbo about a quarter of an inch or maybe just over. I did the whole setup after seeing a guy do the same on a 89-91 CRX in an issue of Honda Tuning.So everything I've done to mine was according to that how-to article excluding the DSM smc, I've got one but it didn't mount the way I wanted it to so I bought a Starion fmic but haven't got the money to have it welded the way I need it---so for now it's not intercooled. The guy in the magazine said that bending the wastegate this far would set it at around 5-7 lbs. but I've got a homemade boost controller that I want to put on and bend the wastegate to be set at 4 lbs. and be able to cut it up to 7 lbs. to run at the track.

ZexRex

high or erratic idle = a vaccume leak. check around the intake manifold for a hose that is off. so it is still doing this on a stock fuel system?

what car and whats your setup?

T-money

I figured it out earlier. I just now had a chance to get back on here and check for replies but yeah that's exactly what it was. After I posted that second reply about the idle I called a friend that has a turbo crx and he said the same thing and thats when I remembered about a house that goes to the brake booster that I took off so that I could get to the screws better that I was using to mount the FMU on the fire wall with.Anyway I put it back on a runs perfect. As for the gas out of the O2 housing---thats from hooking up the FMU wrong. The friend with the crx was explaining to me which hoses go where on it but I had it upside down,so the return line was on the vaccum connection and the vaccum on the return connection.Stupid me but it would help if Vortech would mark the in and out somehow.Two more questions though.How many check valves for 7 psi max? And I've got about 2 or 3 pin holes in the weld around my flange on the oil pan.Will JB weld fill those in good enough to not have to take it off and re-weld it?
My car is a 95 civic ex
T25
HF ported manifold
custom adaptor plate ported to match manifold
TurboXS bov
MSD 5 box , blaster coil,pro cap
Taylor 8mm wires
Vortech FMU

Got it figured out I think , I guess until something else goes wrong but thanks for the advice anyway.

whiterice

jb weld should work.
in the projects section, they used silicone.

ZexRex

i have seen ppl using 3 or 4 check valves on their low budget setups, i dont know how many you really need for 7 psi but i would start at 4 and keep adding if you get a cel.