hadnt done that yet, thanks

just ordered vitaras off ebay.

 

Tight work.

But yea, that little valve would have kept all the pressure in your crank case, eventually shooting out, but first it would have barfed oil out of the dipstick tube at you should you check the oil while running.

 

got some eagle rods last night. worked out a deal w/ my friend: swap tranny/clutch in his civic and he gave me the rods. took 4 hours. not a bad deal. will i have to notch the block for these?

the reason its not boostin much is the lack of a t3 gasket, and those hex bolts are impossible to torque down. major exhaust leak

gasket and allen head bolts should be here wednesday

 

You know what a paddle ball is, right? http://www.supercoolstuff.com/items/...pics/PZ572.jpg

Tell me, if you play with play with it in air and then in water, what's going to happen to the string?

The string, simulating the RODS in your engine, will be stretched a lot more by the ball, which simulates the piston. When the piston is pushing exhaust out and there's no backpressure (due to reving so fast, doesn't fill exhaust - reason turbo doesn't spool w/o load), it will try to stretch the rod a LOT MORE after the half-way point, and in some cases with very little piston/valve clearance, it will stretch the rod/piston enough to make contact. I've seen it a few times where people doing burnout contests toast a motor because of this. ----, I know one of my magazines shows it in their burnout of the month tab. Rev'ing in place is like a chained dog barking. Its not doing anything but making noise.



Anyways, to the OP, PM sent. You will have to notch the block for eagles, about 3/4" wide, 1/4" up and 1/4" out. Smooth the edges to there's no chance for stress cracks.

 

don't argue with this guy he is a completly clueless eurofag

 

being turbo or NA doesnt affect this argument. an NA engine is flowing VERY close to 100% of what it would be at the redline after a rip up through neutral as it would be after a rip up through 3rd. air has VERY low inertia and is happy to accelerate to intake filling speed well before the engine is happy to accerate to redline...

the force of a few psi of backpressure compared to the inertia of the piston and rod and the accelerative forces on them is negligible. besides, the back pressure in the manifold is higher while the gate is closed than once the turbo has spooled and the gate is open. it is this excess pressure which accelerates it. that argument is null and void in at least three independent ways.

ya dont think it was the heat do ya?? ....

yet to see a magazine that was all good, most are very very very far from good at all.

now, i thought we were talking about going from 1k to 7k and lifting immediately , ie, delta rpm is high, and then negative and spends no time at or close to zero (cept the little bit as it passes back through). this makes it sound like we are discussing stead state high revs, ie holding it at 6k or 7k in neutral at a fixed rpm and NOT accelerating or decelerating the engine. thats definitely not good for anything because of clearances and a lack of load to keep things still. which is it. there is no harm in ringing it from idle to 7k and back to idle in the shortest possible time, but there is harm in sitting at high rpm continually with no load, do we agree?

hey random strike : http://www.ls1tech.com"]go home[/url]

 

you go home

 

loser ...



if you have something to add to the discussion, please do...

 

i have noticed some oil is coming out of the intake on the turbo, whats the deal with that? its not smoking.

also my BOV is not working. could it be that i am not boosting enough for it to work? i have adjusted it a few times to "softer" but nothing.