Bird333

I don't think that is correct about the P28. You can just disable VTEC in the rom if you need to. Also a P72 has VTEC. Just trying to clear up confusion.

HondaTuner

It's not correct, you can just disable Vtec with the click of a button... the problem lies in making a p06 work with Vtec, not the other way around (which still isn't really THAT huge of a problem)

f22's all teh way

ACCLUDE

Well, you can just disable it by set the engagement RPM so high that it never gets engaged. with a P28 or P72

with the P06, there is no VTEC at all unless you add that to the board itself.

yardy8301

youll make a ton more torque than you are expecting. you should make your horsepower goal @ 12 psi.

i have the same turbo and same motor as you with less extra ---- you are planning and i made 246whp 241tq @ 10psi. not to mention going on a year with this set up.

Bird333

I don't know about Uberdata, but in Crome you can disable vtec, disable vtec speed check, and disable vtec coolant temp check.

yardy8301

^^^ same in uber.

ACCLUDE

So 275hp and roughly 250tq+ is not farfetched at 12PSI. I was shooting for somewhere between 250-275 but it looks like at 12PSI I'd be at either at 275 or maybe higher Hell if I could get the factory motor to last 6mos to a year on 12 PSI I'd be happy.

yardy...I'd like to see some pics of your setup if you have any?

And yes, you can disable or enable the same things in uber. I was mainly trying to get bonestock94 to look into the P06's cause they are non-VTEC already and sell for about $50-80 while the P28's and P72's are going for like $75-120.

bigdaddyvtec

No prob mang....




These pics are of the first attempt.... Isnapped it in half after about five weeks. I got another one and didnt hack it as much...lots more on and off to make sure i retained as much material as i could, but ya get the idea.... The new one i made also has lots 1/4 inch plate steel bracing it. I doubt highly i will be able to break it. The next time my turbo and mani come off, ill take pics of my new one, it wasnt hard...just the second time around as i mentioned i spent lots of time on it, and it fits like it came stock...BUT BEEFY!!!!

Hope this helps you guys
!!!
BTW: this is for the LSD Mini tubular mani on an f22b1.

Spike-

bonestock94

you do that with an angle grinder?

i am planning to just run w/o the front mount and just solidfy the rear and side mounts (like H22 civics, no front mount).

i got an LX rear mount and mount bracket cuz EX rear mounts arent shaped right to be solidified and are just like automatic tranny rear mounts which are POS.



LX mount filled with 80a shore liquid urethane, looks mint and feels real sturdy.


i may have to try and see if i can hack up my front mount with my angle grinder and see if i can get it to fit. i would like to keep my front mount since i already have inserts in it.

bigdaddyvtec

Ya as I mentioned I have a front insert too... The difference with and without the front mount is dramatic... I used a sawzall and grinder to get it how i wanted it...But as I mentioned; on thee first one (pictured earlier) I cut a bit too much material out. Just make sure to do alot of fitting to make sure you retain as much material as ya can, the new one also has 1/4 inch plate steel bracing welded to it. there is no way itll break.

Just a word of advice- do everythng you can to run the front mount

I hope the pics helped!!!

bonestock94 :

Nice work on the rear mount looks clean!! I believe the front mount will be of great benefit to you, when I broke mine, I could really feel all of the slop by it not being there...ESPECIALLY UNDER BOOST !!! It also caused my drain line to kink, get cut, leak and my turbo to smoke due to the obstructed drain line. It was a braided line from the stealthmode kit too. not cheap ----. The braiding is the only thing that kept it from completely getting sheared off of the motor.... glad i caught it soon and fixed it before my turbo got fucked up!!!