Everything you need to know about oil lines.
06-01-2005, 02:13 AM
#42
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 375
Re: Everything you need to know about oil lines.
Not sure what your question is. But if you have a cooked turbo.
Replacing the main shaft and bearing would freshen it up. But in most cases its cheaper to just a new one as this isnt something most HMT guys can do in their home.
Replacing the main shaft and bearing would freshen it up. But in most cases its cheaper to just a new one as this isnt something most HMT guys can do in their home.
06-02-2005, 03:28 PM
#43
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 252
Re: Everything you need to know about oil lines.
Originally Posted by chinoy
Not sure what your question is. But if you have a cooked turbo.
Replacing the main shaft and bearing would freshen it up. But in most cases its cheaper to just a new one as this isnt something most HMT guys can do in their home.
Replacing the main shaft and bearing would freshen it up. But in most cases its cheaper to just a new one as this isnt something most HMT guys can do in their home.
Caleb
07-10-2005, 11:29 AM
#44
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,438
Re: Everything you need to know about oil lines.
my turbo smoked like a ****, but the bearings were tight, so i took out the turbine and shaft and had some coking in the centersection near the turbine side. It was hard to see but i cleaned it all out and now the smoke is gone. Ghetto rebuild complete!
10-14-2005, 12:08 AM
#46
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 26
Re: Everything you need to know about oil lines.
Hey guys. This is my first post on this forum so please dont be too harsh 
I'm from Australia and in the process of turbocharging my 1975 Mazda Capella. I have everything i need to do it, but am just worrying about oil lines. I've bought all the fittings for my turbo (adapters to hosebarbs) for oil feed and drain. I'm using a Garret T2 turbo, the oil drain fitting in the turbo is about 1" wide. The only way I could solve this was by using a massive adapter to a 3/8" Hose Barb. I hope this doesnt cause too much of a restriction, I have had the cartridge rotated so the oil drain is as close as possible to the bottom. Anyway, Onto Oil Feed. I have a hose barb screwed into my original oil pressure switch hole, as well as a fitting for my oil pressure gauge next to it. So heres a few questions:
1) Is it alright to use quality rubber hose (providing it meets certain pressure and temperature) with hose barbs & clamps for oil feed and drain? I have oil drain hose sorted, It was an oil cooler line off a Saab turbo. Since it is not under pressure I imagine this will suffice, and being made for oil It should withstand its duties.
2) What would a high oil temperature be, for purposes of finding the right hose to use?
3) The threads on my fittings are not perfect, and is a bit sketchy scewing them it the threads. I have teflon tape (rated at 250 degree C) on the threads, and have made sure that none of it is hanging inside to be carried away by oil. The threads are tight, and I imagine that they would be leak free. Is it good practice to surround the fitting head with something like J.B. Weld for assurance? Well, We cannot buy JB Weld in australia. I have found a product that is similar, describing it sets like metal and can be drilled, tapped, filed etc, But it does not have any data on operating temperatures. I dare say normal Epoxy would hold up the the temperature.
Thanks alot for your help guys, I look forward to posting up my finished project when its done.
I'd rather not change over to Braided line, because i have spent about $35 just buying the hose fittings for my oil feed. Unless you can reliable clamp braided line onto hose fittings?
Over and out, Glenn.
I'm from Australia and in the process of turbocharging my 1975 Mazda Capella. I have everything i need to do it, but am just worrying about oil lines. I've bought all the fittings for my turbo (adapters to hosebarbs) for oil feed and drain. I'm using a Garret T2 turbo, the oil drain fitting in the turbo is about 1" wide. The only way I could solve this was by using a massive adapter to a 3/8" Hose Barb. I hope this doesnt cause too much of a restriction, I have had the cartridge rotated so the oil drain is as close as possible to the bottom. Anyway, Onto Oil Feed. I have a hose barb screwed into my original oil pressure switch hole, as well as a fitting for my oil pressure gauge next to it. So heres a few questions:
1) Is it alright to use quality rubber hose (providing it meets certain pressure and temperature) with hose barbs & clamps for oil feed and drain? I have oil drain hose sorted, It was an oil cooler line off a Saab turbo. Since it is not under pressure I imagine this will suffice, and being made for oil It should withstand its duties.
2) What would a high oil temperature be, for purposes of finding the right hose to use?
3) The threads on my fittings are not perfect, and is a bit sketchy scewing them it the threads. I have teflon tape (rated at 250 degree C) on the threads, and have made sure that none of it is hanging inside to be carried away by oil. The threads are tight, and I imagine that they would be leak free. Is it good practice to surround the fitting head with something like J.B. Weld for assurance? Well, We cannot buy JB Weld in australia. I have found a product that is similar, describing it sets like metal and can be drilled, tapped, filed etc, But it does not have any data on operating temperatures. I dare say normal Epoxy would hold up the the temperature.
Thanks alot for your help guys, I look forward to posting up my finished project when its done.
I'd rather not change over to Braided line, because i have spent about $35 just buying the hose fittings for my oil feed. Unless you can reliable clamp braided line onto hose fittings?
Over and out, Glenn.
12-13-2005, 04:46 PM
#47
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 0
Re:Everything you need to know about oil lines.
Originally Posted by ashtoroth
Oil Filter-
No special requirements if you want to take away from the life of your bearings. I've lived through that and never will again. I buy Fram X2 because it's a quality filter and has a larger capacity. Dirty oil is what wears your bearings.
No special requirements if you want to take away from the life of your bearings. I've lived through that and never will again. I buy Fram X2 because it's a quality filter and has a larger capacity. Dirty oil is what wears your bearings.
http://effinmotorworks.com/FiltersII.htm
01-16-2006, 11:02 PM
#48
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 69
Re: Everything you need to know about oil lines.
good write up...i might be having this trouble as we speak. oil return is a little kinked and the turbo has been producing lots of smoke and oil into the downpipe. im thinking maybe it's backing up into the turbo? i'm going to have to buy a new oil line kit (mine is fuel hose)
01-25-2006, 03:36 PM
#50
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 23
Re: Everything you need to know about oil lines.
I have a 93 civic D16Z6
Ok here’s my problem while I was TRYING to prime my turbo I couldn’t get oil to flow from my block to the turbo oil inlet this is ho I have my setup….
B&M filter relocation kit out from block 3/8 hose along the passenger side of car to the front to a oil cooler – hose from cooler to oil filter driver side front corner of car hose goes up and down back the block in the rear of block…. Now I picked up a oil feed kit from tuner toys a adapter for the oil sensor (rear of block) connected to that is the sensor and the stainless steel line to the iol inlet on the turbo
Is there something that im missing? I took off the oil feed line from the turbo unplugged the plug wires and cranked the car a few times to see if oil comes out the oil feed line and nothing came out what should I do
??
Ok here’s my problem while I was TRYING to prime my turbo I couldn’t get oil to flow from my block to the turbo oil inlet this is ho I have my setup….
B&M filter relocation kit out from block 3/8 hose along the passenger side of car to the front to a oil cooler – hose from cooler to oil filter driver side front corner of car hose goes up and down back the block in the rear of block…. Now I picked up a oil feed kit from tuner toys a adapter for the oil sensor (rear of block) connected to that is the sensor and the stainless steel line to the iol inlet on the turbo
Is there something that im missing? I took off the oil feed line from the turbo unplugged the plug wires and cranked the car a few times to see if oil comes out the oil feed line and nothing came out what should I do
??
