Doofnoil

^^^ what he said, and flush your cooling system, add water wetter. That's all I got, cool to see you're rocking a 1st gen; that's going to be my next project car.

FooK

uhh, didnt you learn anything?

running your fan constant is a stupid solution.

make sure your t-stat works, make sure you have a good radiator cap, and from there look into your HG. 90% of the time its a headgasket or one of those two things listed above.

FYI - I just drove for 1000 miles in crazy heat to the HMT camping trip and back, over some steep *** passes and my temperature needle sat in its normal position and never moved the entire time. I swear it was like 100 degrees out there by where we were camping when we left yesterday. Half radiator, single core, z6 @ 10psi.

If you're having cooling issues on a boosted honda, theres something wrong, don't assume its because the turbo setup makes it run hotter, thats just dumb.

rexsk8er

well, im going to put the stock thermostat back in it, after i test it to make sure it works. i could see how it would overheat if you didnt have any kind of restricton, like didnt have any thermostat at all. but all i did was remove the valve that opens. so its still got the body and a bit of restirction. but anyways im going to replace it because its easy to do.


if its not that it has to be a radiator. thanks for the help.




sean

95RedEX

Try a new thermostat & cap if you haven't already.

Also, let your car run at idle with your heat on full blast and wait until the fan kicks on. Squeeze/burp your radiator hoses and make sure you get all the bubbles out and that the system is completely filled (add coolant if needed). To do that, you need to have the system change over (i.e. t-stat opens, hot water comes out, cold water goes in, fan comes on, etc...). It takes awhile and you may end up having to hold the throttle at 2K or 3K RPMs to get the thermostat to pop.

A 97 DelSol 1/2 size dual core radiator will run you $105 at Napa. I used to be one of those guys that said "My original single core is fine, blah blah blah..." until if failed a few weeks ago. I've replaced everything but the HG. Compression numbers still look pretty good.

Oh yeah, I would never recommend water-wetter to anyone unless I knew where they lived. It might help if you're in year round warmer climates, but if your up north, don't leave it in over the wintertime.

good luck. :P

rexsk8er

well i just put in the thermostat. its not working properly, the upper hose is very hot while the lower stays cool. doesnt matter if i rev it or hit the houseing with a screwdriver. I should of tested it on the stove first, but oh well. Thats the same thing i had happend before. but i had a blown h/g than and i figured that it might just of been because the h/g being blown.


anyways, i guess i should get another one. im going to get a dual core radiator as well.




Sean

Mr Ben

I got a similar problem, I started my car for the first time since turbo....i have no charge pipes on or anything so I dont think it could be HG. It was runnin real hot even at idle for the first few minutes, and after that It was runnin pretty hot and a bit of smoke....couldve been burning off antifreeze/water that was left over from when I drained the rad before? Havent really done my timing, I had it at full advance and put it basically in the middle between advanced/retarded.

thanks.

rexsk8er

well, i just put in a new tempature guage sending unit. still overheating. im going to put in a thermostat that i know works, i tested it on the oven. next step is a new radiator.









sean

nyc86zc

I have a D16a1 in my 87 hf with a turbo kit. With the OEM full rad and stock fan temperature switch on the rad the car never overheated. I put in a half rad, but there is not way to hook up the fan to a sensor or at least with my half rad I was not able to. The newer cars have the sensor for the fan on the engine which our d16a1 engines did not come with. What I did for mine was set up a simple toggle switch in my car that I can turn on and off my fan.

LMK what you did. I keep my fan on most of the time in the summer. The only time it gets close to overheating is when I cruise on teh highway at high speeds for long periods of time.

One other thing. WHen I hooked up the wires to the fan you have to swap the colors. Say if the wires going to the fan are yellow and blue you have to make Y->B and B->Y. I had to cut and solder them. Otherwise the fan will blow in the opposite direction. This is just what happened with my car, i am not sure if you had the same problem.

ARP has head studs for our engines, i have them. I can look for the number if you want LMK.

Make sure it's a HG before you go replacing it. I replaced about 4 HG's before I figured out it was the oil return that was backing up in teh turbo causing the turbo to cook the oil on teh exhaust side.

rexsk8er

yeah, i checked it look above. i got good numbers on that, so its ok. i also said that i put the fan on a switch.


the thermostat made it worse. i know it works, i tested it on the oven with a thermometer, and its in stock specs. Now it overheats after 2 minutes or so of running. it cooled much better with the gutted thermostat. I just bought a new tempature sending unit, and im going to install that tommorow when it gets here. If its not that, than it HAS to be the radiator. Thats the only possibility.



sean

hotrex

its your head gasket. suck it up and admit defeat.

my caR DID THE SAME WEXACT THING WHEN IT BLEW THE HG.