hebijake

ju-on, that's a pretty sweet deal, and to anyone who STILL dosent get it then quit trying. Is it for Everyone? No. Is it for Me? No.. The advantage is simple... if you want streetable/daily-usable POWER, then listen up. If you run low boost all the time(due to parts or other factors) then just keep running 92-93oct in your car and you'll be fine. IF you would like to make you car run as Fast and Safe as it does at the track when you pipe in 105oct and up the boost and tuning, but have that *** raping power on the street, then Do it! It makes sense.. after all, if you can buy 105oct(equivalent) fuel for the street for the same prices as 93oct where I live. I'd Do it. Is it for ME personally? No, because my car is a Track ONLY Race car, and I'd rather put 1600cc's in and an Aeromotive 1,000hp pump and lines and pump just strictly 114oct through it. After all, It ONLY ever lives on the Track for now, so I don't mind dropping a few buck's on 114oct and running it like a raped Ape at the track. Mileage is of no concern to me on that one... after all, it'd probably be a 4 galons to the mile at that point hahaha... So, it's at your own discretion. Track power on the street for the similiar costs!

Tom-Guy

Welcome to the DIY-EFI list circa '98. The injectors come in 150 lb/hr and 160 lb/hr flavors, see also Flex Fuel Taurus and Ranger.

1600cc in a gas application idle on a Honduh, but it takes some mojo to do so reliably via the freeware code, mainly tweaking TB and disabling FIT-V and IACV. Hondata offers passable idle control with IACV retained, and from what I am hearing Neptune offers total IACV control making the ludicrously large injectors a snap. For E85 or straight alcohol I wouldn't waste the money on smaller guns.

FYI, dual intank Walbros > A1000.

ju-on

Thank you. Finally some people who actually understand, and have heard of these before. I and a few others have just recently found out about these. You've known about them since 98? No wonder everyone is freaking sold out of them! The one company still has my money, but said they'll have them in 2 weeks. And if I have to wait 2 weeks to get these for 151 bucks, well then that's worth the wait. Hell I might even buy a second set in case a friend needs some. The only dsm guys I know have just recently found out about these too, like within the last year. There's probably others who have known, but kept it secret. Anywho, nice to know I'm not the only one who's found this.

Tom-Guy

LOL, no, I've known about them since '02, from passing mention on Fanglers and reading old DIY-EFI archives. I'm just stating the idea and actual implementation has been around for a while.

FYI, FIC brand is just badge engineering. It's a sticker they put on injectors made by the OEMs, most of their lineup synchs pretty well with Precision's.

MikeJ-2009

It takes just as much foriegn oil to produce ethnol, but don't tell anyone.

bitchasscracker

secrets safe with me

moak89

lol can you explain more clearly what you just said? so you say that ill hav to disable the iacv? this can be done in crome right? and whats fit-v?

Tom-Guy

TB = throttle body. It's a semi-common, but not standardized usage.

IACV and FIT-V are in the factory service literature, you should know them. Net or forum searches are your friend. :P

Xenocron's IACV disable script only disables the CEL. You have to block it, and FIT-V, off the old fashioned way. I recommend you ditch the FIT-V before starting the car, and only delete the IACV if you have problems idling after you fiddle the TB: you have to set the idle with throttle stop + bleed air screw + then adjust the TPS to make sure everything is correct. If you can't get a consistent idle with IACV, then block off IACV and repeat those steps again. Very easy to adjust TPS with datalogging running, BTW.

Any car running 1600cc injectors probably has an aftermarket TB. A lot of those suck due to lack of bleed air screw, and it makes fine adjustment of the idle difficult. I'm a big fan of 65mm J35 butterfly in a bored out stock TB, retains a lot of the OEM functionality, but some like bigger. *shrug*

moak89

alright man ill update you guys when i get em and try to install em.

92turbohatch

I did some research on this ---- awhile ago when I wanted 1600cc injectors but decided they were to big and I didn't want the idle hassle or to buy an injector driver so I'll chime in with some of my findings...To use most bosch injectors on alot of hondas you can either a take your rail to a machine shop or b buy an aftermarket edlbrock,msd,or mrgasket fuel rail since they make nippon denso style and msd/bosch style and you need to enlarge the o ring like for dsm injectors.Easy

There are alot of stock cars that have very large 1000cc plus injectors(mostly bosch style) and heres some part numbers and sizes

0280 150 839 = 1600cc

0280 150 846 =1500cc

0280 150 588=440cc

0280 150 558=420cc

0280 150 837=1580cc


heres some nippon denso style

195500 0900 700cc denso

195500 0830 690cc denso

195500 0610 660cc denso

and finally a style rochester

23422745 820 rochester

Now there are alot more,if you want to dig up more part numbers theres this link http://www.injectorservices.com/injectflow.htm and this http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php4.Im always grabbing ---- I don't need at scrap yards so both of those sites come in handy.If someone finishes this what I started(basically google searching the part numbers) you could end up with big injectors on the cheap.