TurboGuy

What has been done should serve for reference. I understand this entirely. Some things peopel have done work but they take a messed up approach. Like duct tape and JB weld for repairs. to get you home is one thing. Technology is something that should be embraced, not overlooked because there is a functional option. In my situation, I have time and materials at my disposal. I'm not interested in copying someone else's work without improvement. Between my engineering, metalurgy, automotive, and racing knowledge, I believe I can do things a little different to make them better. Like my reason for the Powerstroke Turbo, I can improve my cruise fuel economy and I have complete control of how the boost will come on. Then, it won't hit like a 200 shot of nitrous like I have seen some setups do. My goal besides power with this car is to get 35+ MPG also as it is to be a daily driver. I've looked into staged or twin charged setups, but I believe the configuration I have will work just as well without adding weight.

All I wanted from this thread was an answer for 4 simple questions. Just wanted to alter 1 of them: I am looking at a 53mm BOV, would that be too large?

CXyD

There is no such thing as a too large BOV as long it bleeds off excess pressure fast enough when the throttle is closed.
I have experienced what happens when you use too small BOV.
With the throttle closed I have my intake manifold pressure higher than without the supercharger on so I'm not getting the excess pressure bleed off fast enough. I thought about using another 1g DSM BOV because I usually can find them for cheap!!!!!
Maybe I may have to actually spend some money and buy a bigger BOV. But I'm really cheap.

Hitchhikkr

And I answered all of them in my first post. What exactly are you complaining about?

The point of fact I was making to you was that the Haltech is full of ------- fail. They have KNOWN timing reference problems that any experienced rotary tuner will discuss in length with you. Which is absolutely not something you want in combination with an engine that is to repeat myself once again, 'sensitive to ignition timing changes' which the short of it means the better timing control you have over the 4a, the longer it will last. Honestly, there are better solutions out there for a standalone, and I was simply pointing out a problem that you will most likely run into, and perhaps save you some hassle in the future.

As far as the BOV goes...

Tom-Guy

Conceptz-X, you miss the point entirely. What others have done is the standard for failure. Most intelligent enthusiasts are not well rounded or experienced individuals. What they have done, and how they interpreted the results, is usually completely wrong.

For example, people think stock Honda pistons are weak, add boost and your ring lands are the first to go. They also repeat as a mantra, "it's all in the tune." Well, ---- that, give me a stock part engine that's been properly clearanced for 400+ whp and I can press the laptop buttons to get it there... and from my perspective it's all in the machining.

TTC

Ive heard bad things bout haltec, that god awful greddy or was it aem stand alone and microtech and ive also heard that motec and other high end ecus arent worht the cost. Im curious how people are liking Link still and the nemesis ecu, frankly everyone has favourites but not everyone has used alot of ecus exclusivly. If u ask a tuner what ecu to buy, hell tell you to buy what he either sells or is comfortable with. Everyoen laughs at megasquirt but it gets the job done, albeit halfass but it works. ---- my vw buddy is still an SDS dork, has like what two *****? JD what do u prefer that isnt honda specific.

And quit whining you, their is some good information in this thread. But what do I care, I built my turbo ---- while watching pornhub and downing Pabst.

Tom-Guy

I like Megasquirt - when it works. I haven't plunked with an MS2 yet, but if i got to PRI I'm going to kick the DIY-Autotune guys in the nuts over the dwell failures of the MS1.

AEM gets some stuff wrong with their EMS, but it's the sort of thing that the represented value is wrong and you can still tune the vehicle to do what you need it to. Sort of like how eCtune's battery voltage readout isn't correct, but you can dial in the battery comp table just fine anyway.

Microtech is a barebones unit that flat out works, but I strongly recommend against it for anything but a pure drag car until they fix the ------- lack of battery voltage compensation. Every Toyota I touch has wiring issues (they are the asian equivalent of GM, and their grounds always rely on the unibody, and therefore completely fail) and some people look at me funny when I tell them to deal with AFRs at idle floating from 12.9-16.2, or fix their grounds w/ respect to the charging system. At the very least regulate power to the injectors to a fixed voltage. I haven't dealt with a Microtech on anything else, since all the supa-fast drag Toyotas run them you see a lot of them just like the Nemesis/MR2 deal.

I am not a fan of Nemesis. The last one I touched, the software was MUCH more stable than it had been previously - zero serial communications errors compared to multiple ones accompanied with serious interface/checksum glitches - but the interface is still a dog, for the price you get ZERO extra loggable inputs and are forced into buying a $50 LSU 4.2 sensor and cable for $270 in order to do a lambda log. They run stable once you beat the cruddy things into submission, but they aren't that great and the price vs features leaves a lot to be desired.

Never dealt with a Link, SDS, Motec, but I have dealt with a number of others.

FYI, the flavors of 4A that run the distributor off the cam, using a Honda ECU is the best solution for the Megasquirt budgeted/DIY minded. Not a lot of stuff is as stable or feature rich.

TTC

Question tho is what is machined to use the honda dizzy on the 4age. Im running the ford edis code and wheel for trigger, so far it works great and sadly it cost me one motor when my MS wasnt advancing timing.

As far as toyota grounding goes, the old wiring can be a real ------- pita. I had to run quite a few nice new grounds, with spiffy cleaned metal on metal contact points. I used to suffer from connection issues with the MS showing up as MS resets , but it turned out to be com port issues. I'm guessing some sort of interferance caused by noise in the power line, i put a capacitor on the coil and grounded it along with a belive it or not stereo noise filter on the powerline to the MS. Worked beautifully and I never had a problem after that.

Only problem is with the Ford bits you cant really use launch control, anti lag or retard timing stupid degrees. Which is fine for most people, but antilag would be fun. Luckilly they ahve figured out hwo to fix this.

Tom-Guy

The cam-driven 4A distributors have a bigger OD than Honduh, IIRC you need a 5mm sleeve to go over the Honda base. I measured a pile of 3S, 4A, etc at Harry's shop a while back but don't have the notes on me. Since both are Denso electronics the drive dogs are aligned identically, you just have to make a new one that reaches the 4A cam.

TTC

Doesnt the honda motor spin the opposite direction, could the gear be reversed or coud you rewire the guts of the honda dizzy.

Hitchhikkr

You dont have to do anything mechanical to make it work. The Honda dizzy will still read.

Here's the 'official' pgmfi toyota using a honda dizzy thread.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php...st=0&sk=t&sd=a
I think somebody already posted it but here it is again. You will have to sign in to see it, but you really should see the site anyway regardless of what you drive.